Where to find Sekonic 758 film profiles

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ignacj

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Does anyone know place to download Sekonic 758 profiles for different b&w films (kodak, ilford, efke, etc.)?

Thanks

ig
 

Marco B

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Actually, I don't think there ARE generic profiles for your light meter, but more importantly, for your exposure and development techniques.

Just like with the Zone System, you are the one who has to create your own profiles, based on YOUR exposure and processing techniques.

You could than use the Sekonic DTS software to create your own dedicated film profiles and upload them to the 758 from what I understand of the brief look at the description of what the calibration software does.

Marco
 
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ignacj

ignacj

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I understand that - processing technique, chemistry both would changes the profile. But shouldn't there be a standard curve for any specific film under standard developing circumstances (i.e. tmax100 with XTOL) ... something that would show dynamic range, textural range curves?
 

tkamiya

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I'm actually wondering about the same thing....

Isn't exposing film one thing and developing and printing quite another? Once the film is exposed correctly, ie within its dynamic range, then developing technique can be used to expand or contract the range. Would the characteristic curbe of a particular film usable? I see Sekonic allows me to set clipping point and dynamic range. To me, it sounds like one is the straight (more less) portion of the curve, and the other is when it's well into toe or heel.

Thanks.
 

Dave Swinnard

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I had no idea... Wow, am I behind the times. I just checked out the links given. I guess if I was shooting with a DSLR I'd probably want one of these fancy meters.

How times change when you're not watching.

Dave (really feeling old...)
 

benjiboy

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I had no idea... Wow, am I behind the times. I just checked out the links given. I guess if I was shooting with a DSLR I'd probably want one of these fancy meters.

How times change when you're not watching.

Dave (really feeling old...)
Sekonic are working on developing the next model Dave, that brings you a cup of coffee in bed in the morning, that you can legally marry :D
 
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ignacj

ignacj

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Tkamiya, any new insights?

Dave, Sekonic 758 is one of very few "affordable" and still available spot meters and that allows you a 1 degree measuring - aside from *bay offers on used Pentax and Minolta. I seriously doubt that 758 is high priority on DSLR-only crowd's shopping list.

Ben, that is just hilarious!!
 

tkamiya

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I'm afraid I have nothing to share... I was really wishing some APUG heavy weights will chime in and share their knowledge.

I am now wondering if Sekonic will have a firmware update for 758 when cook breakfast option becomes available.
 

Marco B

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benjiboy

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Wow, it makes me wonder how the heck I've managed to take pictures without one for the last fifty odd years :smile:
 
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ignacj

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Wow, it makes me wonder how the heck I've managed to take pictures without one for the last fifty odd years :smile:

Apparently you bought a really good one 50 years ago, because you "wouldn't buy a second hand light meter, it's too important to me to take chances."

I'm trying the very same thing. Light meters being slightly more complex device these days, I'm just looking for some constructive advice as to take the full advantage of it. I'll make sure you get an update in 2060 how it went!

cheers!
 
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ignacj

ignacj

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Marco, thanks!

WClark, I'm aware of the software to load the data - this can be done directly on 758 as well - what I'm looking for is data on different films in particular tmax100. i.e. HD curve under specific development process.

Yes, I'm aware I should be doing this myself, but being limited to 120 and 35mm rolls, that's rather expensive way to experiment. 4x5 sheets would be very helpful here if I had the camera.
 
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Chazzy

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If one doesn't want to be able to set up film profiles, what does the L-758 really offer over the L-358 at nearly twice the price? Spot metering and radio triggering are built in, instead of requiring optional attachments. That seems to be about it in terms of features that I think I would use. Am I missing anything important? I'd like to get a really good flash meter, and I don't want to regret not buying a better one, if I would really use the features.
 
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ignacj

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Chazzy,

758's built-in 1-degree spot meter was the selling point for me. Actually I have 358 in mint condition that I'm selling for $200 shipped to conus. ((there was a url link here which no longer exists))
There are 1- 5- 10-degrees spot attachments for 358, but 1- is about $170 (5- and 10- are about $150 each) and rather bulky when attached to 358. Combined with new 358 at about $240, you are coming close in price to 758. Radio triggering is only for PocketWizards. I have Hensel system with it's own proprietary radio control, so it's off no use to me. Other then that, 758 has exposure profiling built-in. Basically you can program it to keep your exposure within camera or FILM dynamic range. Not essential, but comes with it and hence this thread in hope somebody has put it to use with film!
If you don't care about spot metering, go with 358. It does have Lumigrid (in addition to standard white ball) for reflective reading at (I think) 54-degree angle. In studio environment with strobes it performed flawlessly for me.

Best,
 
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benjiboy

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Apparently you bought a really good one 50 years ago, because you "wouldn't buy a second hand light meter, it's too important to me to take chances."

I'm trying the very same thing. Light meters being slightly more complex device these days, I'm just looking for some constructive advice as to take the full advantage of it. I'll make sure you get an update in 2060 how it went!

cheers!
I'm aware of what light meters are like these days I have a Sekonic L358 I bought last year, I just feel that that the increasing reliance on technology is turning the craft into the level of painting by numbers.
You are welcome to update me of how you're 758 went in 2060, but make sure you bring a shovel :tongue:
 

wclark5179

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I'm all eyes on this. My light meters can be set for more that one ISO (ASA) speed but I'm not aware of setting up profiles on particular films.
With digital each camera has a profile as each sensor and electronics varies, how much I don't know. With most of my type of paid photography I couldn't spend the time with this.

Maybe some one can enlighten me on this subject.

At any rate, I'm all eyes waiting to learn something!

Thanks!
 
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ignacj

ignacj

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I'm aware of what light meters are like these days I have a Sekonic L358 I bought last year, I just feel that that the increasing reliance on technology is turning the craft into the level of painting by numbers.
You are welcome to update me of how you're 758 went in 2060, but make sure you bring a shovel :tongue:

It's slim picking for light-meter manufacturers in these days and point-and-shoots, so I would imagine they will go out of their way to make it somehow "Digital". I agree, exposure profiling is non-essential, and if there was 758-Analog version for $100 less, it would have been in my camera bag. Unfortunately DR is the only one available. Exposure profiling is like GPS navigation in a new car - not essential, but if you got it, you might as well learn how to use it.
Just for the record, my truck in 10 years old, GPSless, and will get much much older... but hey, I got 758 and brand new/old Mamiya outfit instead! :D
 

benjiboy

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It's slim picking for light-meter manufacturers in these days and point-and-shoots, so I would imagine they will go out of their way to make it somehow "Digital". I agree, exposure profiling is non-essential, and if there was 758-Analog version for $100 less, it would have been in my camera bag. Unfortunately DR is the only one available. Exposure profiling is like GPS navigation in a new car - not essential, but if you got it, you might as well learn how to use it.
Just for the record, my truck in 10 years old, GPSless, and will get much much older... but hey, I got 758 and brand new/old Mamiya outfit instead! :D
I bought the L-358 and the one degree spot finder later, I couldn't see the point in spending nearly twice as much to solve a problem that I didn't have.
 
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ignacj

ignacj

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358 with 1-degree attachment is less sensitive (EV1-24.4 for 758 vs EV5-24.4 for 358 w/ attachment), and my understanding is that attachment does not have internal readout. Yes, you can argue these are non essential and save yourself $80. If you use Pocket Wizard to trigger your strobes, that is another $50 upgrade for 358.
Whatever works for you
 
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benjiboy

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358 with 1-degree attachment is less sensitive (EV1-24.4 for 758 vs EV5-24.4 for 358 w/ attachment), and my understanding is that attachment does not have internal readout. Yes, you can argue these are non essential and save yourself $80. If you use Pocket Wizard to trigger your strobes, that is another $50 upgrade for 358.
Whatever works for you
The reason I bought the L-358 in preference to the L-758 wasn't to save money but because it was more suitable for my purpose, I do think the features you mention are "none essential" for me personally, although I do have five studio strobes I'm happy to keep using sync cables to trigger them.
 
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ignacj

ignacj

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The reason I bought the L-358 in preference to the L-758 wasn't to save money but because it was more suitable for my purpose, I do think the features you mention are "none essential" for me personally, although I do have five studio strobes I'm happy to keep using sync cables to trigger them.

"nonessential" to you, perhaps critical and definitely worth extra $80 to other folks.
 

Chazzy

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358 with 1-degree attachment is less sensitive (EV1-24.4 for 758 vs EV5-24.4 for 358 w/ attachment), and my understanding is that attachment does not have internal readout. Yes, you can argue these are non essential and save yourself $80. If you use Pocket Wizard to trigger your strobes, that is another $50 upgrade for 358.
Whatever works for you

I don't have a very good idea of what EV1 through EV4 would look like. Would indirect window light during daytime ever get down into that territory?
 
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