When you mix your own D-76

[JPD]

Question 1: When you mix your own D-76 from raw chemicals, do you get the same times as the official ones for the pre-packaged Kodak D-76?

Question 2: Ilford's ID-11 is supposed to be the same developer, but Adox gives different times for their CHS 100 II. 9 min vs 7:30 min for 1+1. http://www.adox.de/Technical_Informations/TA_CHS100II_EN.pdf

I'm planning to shoot CHS 100 II and mix up some D-76, and I'm not sure what time I should use for development, and which of Kodak's or Ilford's versions is the "real" D-76 corresponding to the original formula. I don't have enough film to do tests.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Both home brew and packaged D-76 are identical in their action. The Kodak and Ilford developers may contain a calcium sequestering agent and other chemicals necessary for packaging. For example only anhydrous chemicals can be placed in the bags. So ordinary borax cannot be used.

Both Kodak and Ilford have published their formulas numerous times. Development times are merely suggestions because each person's method is different. Ilfird and Kodak both have their own methods and criteria so its is not unusual for there to be some difference. If you are nervous then follow the times recommended for the particular developer you are using.

Here is Ilford's formula.

http://www.photomemorabilia.co.uk/Ilford/Chronology/Ilford_Formulae_Dev_1953.pdf

 

[David Lyga]

Gerald, even when following instructions scrupulously I always do a clip test (about an inch of exposed film) with ANY recently mixed developer. There are sometimes strange, unexplained situations that 'develop'.

I believe that Ilford's ID-II is identical to D-76. - David Lyga

 

[darkroommike]

1. Are you printing with a condenser enlarger or using a colorhead or other diffusion light source? If using diffused enlarge light lean towards the longer time.
2. Are you shooting 120 or 35mm, if 35mm lean towards the shorter time.
3. Have you used your homebrew before with other films? Do the times seem accurate?
4. Have you consulted the Massive Developing Chart for their recommendations? For ID-11 and D-76 the Massive lists identical times for stock and 1+1, and the Adox chart does not.
5. If none of the above, split the difference for your first roll.

 

[darkroommike]

Gerald, even when following instructions scrupulously I always do a clip test (about an inch of exposed film) with ANY recently mixed developer. There are sometimes strange, unexplained situations that 'develop'.

I believe that Ilford's ID-II is identical to D-76. - David Lyga

And with all developers mixed from powder I let them "rest" overnight before I use them.

 

[Ian Grant]

The published formulae for ID-11 and d76 are identical however the modern packeaged products now differ very slightly in their buffering D76 now being closer to D76d so there's a slight difference in activity hence slight variations in development times.

The official times will be a reasonable starting point but then fine tune for the optimal results.

Ian

 

[Xmas]

Ian databases all the formula...

http://www.lostlabours.co.uk/photography/formulae/developers/devD76_variants.htm

D76d is stable long term and closer to the of the shelf prepackaged developers. It's pH is held constant sensibly over storage or use.

Ian will grumble if I have miss interpreted?

 

[baachitraka]

DK76b was my favorite since I had a lot of sodium metaborate.
After D-76, DK76b was most stable and consistent for over a period of six months.

But now PC-TEA is doing great job

 

[Gerald C Koch]

The classic formula for D-76 with 2 g of borax per liter is poorly buffered and its activity can change. As Ian pointed out the packaged version probably uses a slightly different buffering system. However there is just so much that can be done without changing the pH of the final product. So what ever you decide to use either Kodak or Ilford stick with it and do not switch around for best results.

 

[Rudeofus]

Increased buffering will improve predictability over time, it will, however, also reduce sharpness to some extent.

On a related note, some calcium sequestering agents also have buffering capacity, therefore these prepackaged D-76 variants may behave somewhere in between D-76 and D-76d.

 

[JPD]

Are you printing with a condenser enlarger or using a colorhead or other diffusion light source? If using diffused enlarge light lean towards the longer time.

I'm not enlarging these negs myself. They are 9x12 and too big for my enlarger. Not sure what light source the printer has.

Are you shooting 120 or 35mm, if 35mm lean towards the shorter time.

Sheet film.

Have you used your homebrew before with other films? Do the times seem accurate?

Yes, for almost 20 years. But I've used developers like Agfa 44 (Ansco 17) and Agfa 8, and had to do tests myself.

Have you consulted the Massive Developing Chart for their recommendations? For ID-11 and D-76 the Massive lists identical times for stock and 1+1, and the Adox chart does not.
If none of the above, split the difference for your first roll.

Yes, I have. And the Adox chart is confusing me.

 

[JPD]

Thanks for all the replies. I'll use the Adox recommendation for Kodak's D-76.

My plans are to take some shots on 9x12 sheet film and develop them myself in my Combiplan tank. If they turn out good I'll send them to Fotoimpex for printing on Adox MCC fibre paper. I don't have a enlarger for this size.

 

[Pat Erson]

When I mix my own D-76...

... I stir it for a LONG time (10 minutes in total), much longer than I do with Kodak packages.
I messed up some batches of homemade D-76 and I discovered the culprit was not enough stirring.

A man's mistake is another man's roadbook. ;-)

 

[Gerald C Koch]

When I mix my own D-76...

... I stir it for a LONG time (10 minutes in total), much longer than I do with Kodak packages.
I messed up some batches of homemade D-76 and I discovered the culprit was not enough stirring.

A man's mistake is another man's roadbook. ;-)

By any chance do you add the metol after the sodium sulfite? The metol should be dissolved before the bulk of the sodium sulfite is added.

 

[Pat Erson]

No Gerald I mix it first (after adding the proverbial pinch of SS). I had two batches of homemade D-76 that went bad a few hours after being "mixed". The soup turned weird-looking and it had some glistening white stuff floating in it (hydroquinone "needles"?).

I first blamed the age of the raw chemicals I used before discovering I needed to agitate more.
My agitation routine was derived from mixing Kodak D-76 bags. It works like a charm if you mix yellow bags but it's simply not enough if you make dev from scratch.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Very strange. I don't use D-76 often but have never experienced any problems with each chemical dissolving quickly with gentle stirring.

 

[Ronald Moravec]

My home brew and packaged D76 have identical times and storage life. The time is 10% less less than Kodak because they calculate for a diffusion enlarger.

Keep air away from metal. I use small 1 once bottles and and remove it with a plastic spoon which will be too wide. Cut it down on a grinding wheel.

Borax is 20 Mule Team from the laundry aisle. $2 will get a lifetime supply.