- Joined
- Dec 26, 2009
- Messages
- 102
- Format
- Multi Format
So I'm asking: when do you shoot medium format?
...
I'm thinking, how do you set yourself up for shooting medium format, how do you visualize a medium format picture - how do you manage to haul around a bigger camera that still allows you to see what you're doing without the size of it getting in your way?
I'm doing MF street photography. I am a former digital shooter, converted to film due the way it looks and then to MF, because of the way it handles perspective and DOF.
I just picked up from the lab a roll of Ektachrome 100GX that I shot in my Mamiya 645 Pro. Once you have looked at medium format slides on a light box, you'll have one answer to the OP's question. If you can then turn around and project them, you'll have an even better one.
I forgot about chromes. I only have 35mm slide projectors too... I used to shoot mostly chromes for color, just loved them but chromes are a pain to get processed around here now, not great results what I had done last year so I've dropped them for now. I love that they are the shot I took, no post processing can save them if they are wrong, thus chromes are the purest image in my opinion.
I do love looking at medium and large chromes on the light box from other guys but I couldn't do anything else with them!
How does it handle perspective differently other than different DOF to focal length ratio? I seem to find it somewhat equally difficult to find a bellows or shift lens for both cameras, though there might be some chance it might be slightly more available for MF and I haven't found it yet.
Also, I'm curious if I'm right in MF being a way of getting faster lenses all over due to the size - my reasoning for that being that the grain of a 400 film will, due to the size of any medium format behave more like a 100 ISO film on 35mm and thus you get the speed of 400 ISO on 2.8, which is more like 100 with 1.4 on 35mm otherwise?
Am I wrong to think you can get away with faster film on MF (I find I often like 400 ISO B&W both because grain has a different look on film as well as I also get a slightly better contrast out of it).
In comparison with smaller formats, because it uses longer lenses to achieve the same angle of view, the main subject and the objects in the foreground and background appear closer, thus "compressing perspective".
As regards film speed, yes, the grain is less visible at the same ISO in MF. BTW Ilford Delta 3200 looks very good in 6x6 format. See for instance the photo below (developed in an almost ehausted microphen solution):
They don't.
Same angle of view, same position, same perspective.
Different angle of view, same position, still the same perspective.
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I don't hunt for photographs in my viewfinders or on the ground glass.
Some people feel that an MF or LF camera really comes between them and the subject. I suppose that is because they are trying to use the camera to find the subject, something that I find very inefficient and uncomfortable. Better to train your eyes and your imagination than your forearms.
They don't.
Same angle of view, same position, same perspective.
Different angle of view, same position, still the same perspective.
You get "compressed perspective" in the 'far away' parts of a scene.
It's there in superwide and wide pictures, though very small.
It's there in the normal lens pictures.
It's there in tele lens pictures, too.
The difference is that with increasing focal length, the angle of view decreases, and you are (or rather: could be) cropping to the far away bits.
Now what you do when putting a longer lens on a MF camera is make sure that, from the same location (important), the larger frame is 'filled' with the same angle of view as a shorter lens on a smaller format camera.
As such, it produces no difference, compared to the shorter lens on a smaller format. Why, it's even meant to keep things the same: the longer lens restricts the view to what you would get on a smaller format.
The only way to change perspective is to change position relative to the subject. You can compress perspective using a wide angle lens by moving away from your subject.
You then get lots of perhaps uninteresting stuff surrounding your subject in the frame. And you then select a longer lens to crop that unnecessary stuff away and enlarge the bit you are interested in.
But the working bit re perspective is not the longer lens, but the moving away bit, the changing position part.
The perspective doesn't change between formats, but the depth of field does.
Assuming same angle of view and aperture, smaller formats will exhibit more depth of field.
Q.G.:
I never took you for a Country and Western fan
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