When Do You Remove the Paper?

Sophisticated? leaving the leader out is so unprofessional.

miha said:

Sophisticated? leaving the leader out is so unprofessional.

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the term professional must have more then one meaning. Sophistication on the other hand, is hard to interpret in so many ways.

CatLABS said:

the term professional must have more then one meaning. Sophistication on the other hand, is hard to interpret in so many ways.

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Imagine a working pro in the '80s. They run around with an unpadded Domke bag full of gear, bashing around with 20 rolls of trix, searching for a fresh roll with his hand in the bag, another hand holding a camera. The only way he can tell the films apart is by touching the canisters, the one with the leader out is the one ready to load. He has no time, nor is he sofisticated enough to be able to rewind so that the leader stays out. For me Pro equals efficiency.

miha said:

Imagine a working pro in the '80s. They run around with an unpadded Domke bag full of gear, bashing around with 20 rolls of trix, searching for a fresh roll with his hand in the bag, another hand holding a camera. The only way he can tell the films apart is by touching the canisters, the one with the leader out is the one ready to load. He has no time, nor is he sofisticated enough to be able to rewind so that the leader stays out. For me Pro equals efficiency.

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I wouldn't consider Paperazzi and press to be "professional" hahahaha

I'm half kidding.

miha said:

Imagine a working pro in the '80s. They run around with an unpadded Domke bag full of gear, bashing around with 20 rolls of trix, searching for a fresh roll with his hand in the bag, another hand holding a camera. The only way he can tell the films apart is by touching the canisters, the one with the leader out is the one ready to load. He has no time, nor is he sofisticated enough to be able to rewind so that the leader stays out. For me Pro equals efficiency.

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no need to imagine.

I guess it comes with doing this kind of work.
Shot film goes in left pocket. Unshot film goes in right pocket.
If all film was in the same pocket the amount of time to pick one out and see that is already shot is more then to KNOW where the unshot rolls are.
Maybe its a 90's thing but whatever.

StoneNYC said:

I wouldn't consider Paperazzi and press to be "professional" hahahaha

I'm half kidding.

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Tell this to Weegee: Dead Link Removed

miha said:

Tell this to Weegee: Dead Link Removed

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Hah! Awesome outfit! Ok he passes...

StoneNYC said:

Umm I have a loader...

But when you load the reel.... After shooting the film... You need to disconnect the end of the roll of film from the rest of the film, you need to cut the end (I leave an inch of film sticking out of the reel). Then I reload the canister using the bulk loader... Still need a scissors....

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But as already mentioned, you can rip this by pinching it with your finger nails.

cliveh said:

But has you have already mentioned, you can rip this by pinching it with your finger nails.

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Potentially causing static sparks...

StoneNYC said:

Potentially causing static sparks...

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I see them sometimes when film is glued to the reel with a tape.

miha said:

I see them sometimes when film is glued to the reel with a tape.

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I know, it’s like a van de graaff generator in my darkroom when I’m loading film.

cliveh said:

I know, it’s like a van de graaff generator in my darkroom when I’m loading film.

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Never saw any sparks when ripping it though , but always seen them with tape even if you do go super slow. Sometimes I try breathing warm breath over the tape to increase humidity in that area. Don't think it works though haha.

winger said:

I let it fall away as I put the film on the reel then tear it off when the film is all loaded. Yes, slowly to avoid static sparks. I like keeping it all on the spool until it gets to the reel because I'm fairly sure I'd drop the film on the floor if I took it off the spool sooner.

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That's my method also. I use stainless steel reels. Might be more difficult with plastic reels.

Dear All,

When removing the tape on a 120 film I was always taught to do it very, very slowly but also not to lift it off at 90 degrees but to pull it back on itself almost peeling it off flat, always worked for me.

Simon. ILFORD Photo / HARMAN technology Limited :

CatLABS said:

some folks use a film picker to grab the leader of the film, trim it, then wind it back.
Other more sophisticated folk who use cameras with manual rewind learn how to rewind the film and leave the leader sticking out.
Even more sophisticated folks yet who have electronic wining cameras program the camera to wind the film and leave a leader out.

Still, if you use Jobo reels, you dont even need to clip the leader, you can just load as is.

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I was just curious. The only plastic reels I ever used were Paterson and one other brand with a much larger plastic guide where the film enters the reels, and none of those would accept anything other than a perfectly straight edge, which invariably would necessitate scissors.
That JoBo reel must be something else.

I now use Hewes stainless reels, and I can use a rough edge on the film and it will still load just fine. But a clean edge works well anyway, and I need the scissors to cut the film at the spool too. I've used the same changing bag for 15 years, and no holes from scissors yet, in spite of a couple of thousand rolls using very sharp Fiskars titanium blade scissors.

As far as the 120 film goes, I load most of the film onto the reel (also Hewes stainless), and when I get to the end, I very slowly remove the backing paper from the tape, and fold the tape around to the emulsion side and tape the loose end down. Finish loading the reel, and voila.
The tape remains on the film until the film is dry and I cut it in strips to go to storage. I see no reason to remove the tape at all, although if one was using plastic reels I suppose it would be necessary.

bdial said:

Here is my method,
I cup the spool in one hand, then pull the paper with the other, while pulling, my thumb on the hand holding the spool is riding on the film side of the paper. This separates the film from the paper and leaves you holding the rolled up film in one hand, the paper in the other. When you get to the tape tear (at the joint between the paper and the film) or peel it as you like. With practice, you can do this in one motion.

Then load from the taped end as described.

Letting it fall free in a curly strip risks getting kinks or scratches, though it's not a big risk. It also ensures it won't drag on the floor.

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I do the same.

Stefan

Verstuurd vanaf mijn GT-P7510 met Tapatalk

It takes a gentle touch to use scissors in the dark, and perhaps a bit of practice. I did use the "kindergarten" style when I was using a changing bag, but now that I have a real work area I just use regular scissors.

You can position the blade with your thumb, I know just how far to cut from the curve of the leader and 80% of the time I can cut the film square without hitting the perfs (35mm) if I hear the purf, I go back and slice another small amount off.

It is slightly harder when bulk loading,but hitting the perfs is not an issue, and I trim the leader to shape in the light after the film is in a cassette.

CatLABS said:

the term professional must have more then one meaning. Sophistication on the other hand, is hard to interpret in so many ways.

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One has to be carefull with this word.

v. sophisticate

1: to alter deceptively; especially : adulterate
2: to deprive of genuineness, naturalness, or simplicity; especially : to deprive of naïveté and make worldly-wise : disillusion
3: to make complicated or complex

Well, it looks like everyone does it differently. I just let it fall off the film in the change bag, and when I get to the end I cut it and the film. Once in a great while I'll cut into the last frame, buy maybe 99 out of 100 times I don't. I can load 120 in my sleep, it's 35mm that sometimes throws me.