What's Up With the Yashica TLR Shutters?

[gone]

I've been looking at Yashica TLRs on the auction site, and it's amazing how many of them have shutters that are not working. I thought about buying one w/ the idea of fixing it, but I wonder if that is a good idea. Is there some sort of built-in issue w/ these cameras?

 

[pdeeh]

Yep, activating the self timer when the flash sync is set to X buggers them. Easily fixed.

Or is it M come to think about it?

Can't remember - one of the two

 

[snapguy]

Well

Well, I have two Yashicamats that are both over 50 years old and they work fine. The Yashicamat somehow got a poor reputation but can be awful sturdy cameras if not abused. I used one in the 1970s and sold color sides to magazines and newspapers all over the world. In those days a lot of foreign publications like in Australia, Japan and Germany, preferred the 120-sze slides over 35mm.

 

[Lench]

Heard about the self-timer in M mode issue so I had to try it on my 124g and It still functions perfectly fine! Still looks like it got caught in a sandstorm then hit by a truck but it still works

 

[Kyle M.]

I don't know if it's all Copal shutter or just the ones that Yashica used, but you are not supposed to use the self timer with the flash sync set on M. My first Yashica D had a block that was activated so you couldn't move the self timer if the sync was set on M, my second one an earlier D either didn't have it or had been broken. It didn't seem to mind if it was on M or X. I also once messed up a Prontor-S shutter by accidentally using the self timer with the shutter on M, after that the shutter would not fire but would hang up on M, worked fine on X though.

 

[Rick A]

Yep, activating the self timer when the flash sync is set to X buggers them. Easily fixed.

Or is it M come to think about it?

Can't remember - one of the two

It's 'M' what forks em up, they are supposed to be set to 'X' for self timer. I (and many others) super glue the selector switch to the X position so they don't get wonky.

 

[summicron1]

I think the issue is that the M synch and the self timer use the same delay escapement so ur supposed to only use one or the other.

The bigger question of "why are so many bum yashicas for sale" is easy: Nobody is selling the ones that work because they -- duh -- still work.

Copal shutters are actually pretty good -- slightly looser tolerances than Compur, as I understand these things, so they don't gum up as easily.

 

[Ken Nadvornick]

It's 'M' what forks em up, they are supposed to be set to 'X' for self timer. I (and many others) super glue the selector switch to the X position so they don't get wonky.

Noooooooooo!!! Be nice to those poor old 'M' settings!

Or what will people like me do who still occasionally use "Medium peak" flashbulbs in a Graflite flashgun? I recently purchased an 80mm lens that was in just beautiful condition for my Mamiya C330S TLR. Recently CLAed, all shutter speeds were bang on. Beautiful sparkling glass. Excellent cosmetics. But was heartbroken to find the 'X' sync permanently epoxied into the geologic time scale.



Press 25 flashbulbs really do need those few extra milliseconds of patience. It's part of the definition of "slow photography".

Ken

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

My first yashica had its self timer completely disconnected and free swinging. I guess someone before me went in and really broke it trying to fix it. If your going to do the repair, you also need a new leather covering, as if you try and peel it, they will most likely crack on you.

 

[trythis]

Mine just had oily blade and requires a complete tear down and be made dry, the lighter fluid /naptha thing works for 3 0minutes, but after that gummy.

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

Mine just had oily blade and requires a complete tear down and be made dry, the lighter fluid /naptha thing works for 3 0minutes, but after that gummy.

You might need to take the shutter apart, and clean it more thoroughly. You can also try a combination of naphtha with graphite/moly powder mixed together for application to the blades if you are trying to do it through the front or rear lens cells. The naphtha will help carry it, and when it evaporates, the graphite or moly powder will help lube it.

 

[shutterfinger]

The leaf shutters in TLR's are the same as the ones used on large format lens with a few adaptations added.
A leaf shutter CLAed when it starts to run between 1/3 to 1/2 stop slow usually comes back to like new or near new operation even after several CLA's.
A leaf shutter used until it reaches 1 stop slow only comes back to 75% of new.
A leaf shutter used until it stops working is not repairable 50% to 60% of the time and only operates to 60% of new at best when they are repairable.
A leaf shutter that has been maintained and used for a few thousand rolls of film is most likely worn out.
A low use camera allowed to sit for years has dried out lubrication and is a diamond in the ruff.

 

[Rhythm Thief]

I've just bought a Yashica Mat with a sticky shutter. I've spent the last few days flooding it with naptha and it works better now than it did, but it still sticks once the naptha has dried out. It gets a little better with each cycle of cleaning. All the speeds seem to be about right when it's working. I've just removed the lens assembly and exposed the shutter workings so I can see what's going on ... I'm hoping to get it working with nothing more than cleaning and some sparing lubrication. Is dry PTFE lube any good for this sort of thing or should I get myself some watch oil? I'm hoping it's an example of the last item on shutterfinger's list .

 

[shutterfinger]

I've just bought a Yashica Mat with a sticky shutter. I've spent the last few days flooding it with naptha and it works better now than it did, but it still sticks once the naptha has dried out.

It needs a full disassembly, thorough cleaning to get all the dried gunk out of the "dark corners", and fresh lube. I just started using ptfe grease on my shutters as I CLA them. I also got some Ptfe that drys to a dry film to use on speed dials where they rub against the shutter name plate and similar applications.
Stick with the watch oil, just a sheen, on shafts and bushings; extra fine powdered graphite on aperture and shutter blades, trace of light to medium weight grease where levers and springs slide against the case.

I use CRC Electronic contact cleaner as it is safe on plastics, rubber and leaves no residue. I spray the parts off over a small wide mouth jar then put the part in the jar with the cleaner fluid, cap tightly, let sit 5 to 15 minutes, swish, remove the parts, dry, lube, and assemble. On shutters like yours the parts may need to soak 30 minutes to an hour to come clean. Once I have sufficient fluid in the jar I just add the parts without spraying them first.

Part of the gummy gunk is micro fine metal particles from normal wear and dirt that came in from the control openings mixed into the dried oil and grease base. Flushing without disassembly only moves the gunk around in the tight places, aka dark corners. Flushing without disassembly is a stop gap measure not a long term repair.

 

[trythis]

Mine has been working fine for a while, I stripped it down and dried out the shutter.

You might need to take the shutter apart, and clean it more thoroughly. You can also try a combination of naphtha with graphite/moly powder mixed together for application to the blades if you are trying to do it through the front or rear lens cells. The naphtha will help carry it, and when it evaporates, the graphite or moly powder will help lube it.

Dupont makes a Teflon Dry film lubricant sold at Lowe's home improvement centers where the Teflon is carried in Heptane and Isopropyl Alcohol. It dries very fast but leaves a thin white residue, so not as pretty, but its very slick.

 

[PrestonR]

Yes, it will jam if set on M.

 

[Xmas]

I was told there were no spare parts for YM shutters by 1993, in '93. So you need a cannibal if you have a broken (or worn to unserviceable) part.

I sold my first one about '75 so they are well old now and may need a clean and relube.

 

[benjiboy]

Like most of the 30-40 year old cameras about they haven't been properly maintained, if you buy one off an auction site and want a reliable picture making machine add to the purchase price the cost of a professional service before you buy it.

 

[BrianShaw]

Wise words! I have a difficult time understanding why this is such a difficult concept for some to understand.

 

[wiltw]

Fifty year old lubricants in the timing mechanisms

 

[paul ron]

I have restored 2 complete sets of every yashicamats ever made. The majority of the shutters worked fine without anything needed other than a cleaning.

The screwed up few i got were user error problems like the self timer syndrom or an over zelous unqualified camera repair.

The are very under rated cameras, just pure beauty in its simplest form!

Buy m cheap, and roll the dice!

Enjoy

 

[ValveTubeHead]

just a few rolls in... ive had my '57 Y-mat all of 6wks and am positively smitten. For such a modest little camera, its just a joy to compose and capture with; no fumbling, easy to setup and so far, results are exceeding my expectations.

 

[Brett Rogers]

You might need to take the shutter apart, and clean it more thoroughly. You can also try a combination of naphtha with graphite/moly powder mixed together for application to the blades if you are trying to do it through the front or rear lens cells. The naphtha will help carry it, and when it evaporates, the graphite or moly powder will help lube it.

And spread itself all over everything else including the lenses. Really bad idea. If it was a good option manufacturers would have utilised it themselves. None of the decent ones did as far as I know. I'm sorting out a Rolleicord at present that some genius scattered graphite into. The shit is everywhere, as well as removing old lube and general detritus I have to clean out all of that as well. Not happy.

 

[Wade D]

I've owned a Yashica D since the mid 70's. The shutter is just now getting sticky at the slower speeds.
I'm sending it to Mark Hama in a few weeks for a complete CLA. Very reasonable prices and top grade work.

 

[BrianShaw]

... The majority of the shutters worked fine without anything needed other than a cleaning.

The screwed up few i got were user error problems like the self timer syndrom or an over zelous unqualified camera repair.

...

This has been my experience with most leaf shutters. Every once in a while a replacement part is needed, but htat is almost guaranteed after DIY attempts have been made.