Whats the minimum equip I need for processing ?

Hello,
I'm completely new to photography so apologize in advance for what may seem stupid questions but at some point in the near future I would like to have a go at processing my own film, Can anyone advise on the minimum equipment I need to process black and white 35mm film ? Is this different from colour ? I know I will need the processing tank but are there any other specialist items which I would need.

Thanks all

Right at the top of every subforum, there's a set of "stickies".

As you can imagine, your question has been asked a few times before
So, forum member michael_r kindly assembled a set of links that will answer your question pretty thoroughly:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

good luck

Brad

Reel(s), graduate, washer, hanging clips, chemistry for black and white chemistry and a light-free area or a changing bag to load the film in the reels/tank and you are good to go. I don't process color film.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

BADGER.BRAD said:

Hello,
I'm completely new to photography so apologize in advance for what may seem stupid questions but at some point in the near future I would like to have a go at processing my own film, Can anyone advise on the minimum equipment I need to process black and white 35mm film ? Is this different from colour ? I know I will need the processing tank but are there any other specialist items which I would need.

Thanks all

Click to expand...

Changing bag, Tank with a reel, developer and fixer. That's it.

Everything else you probably have in your kitchen.

Edit; forget the changing bag. Just a very very dark room or closet will work.

Paterson Film Processing Kit
Contains all the essential equipment to process up to two rolls of 35mm or one roll of 120 film at the same time.

Contents:

- Universal Developing Tank with 2 spirals
- Two 600ml Graduates
- One 150ml Graduate
- Thermometer
- Film Squeegee
- Set of 2 Film Clips
- Full instructions

This is one good example. I have blanked out the reference to a film squeegee, because they are not a good idea.
You also need somewhere to load the film on to the reels in complete darkness - either a room/closet you can make totally dark, or a film changing bag.
In addition, you need a method of timing the processes. If you are organized, a clock with a sweep second hand works fine. A timer is nicer.
For black and white, most people are able to work at room temperature, because that is sufficiently close to 20 C in most circumstances. For colour, you need higher temperatures, and more closely controlled temperatures, so additional resources are needed.

There are other things that might be nice to have as well, but you asked about minimums.

MattKing said:

Paterson Film Processing Kit
Contains all the essential equipment to process up to two rolls of 35mm or one roll of 120 film at the same time.

Contents:

- Universal Developing Tank with 2 spirals
- Two 600ml Graduates
- One 150ml Graduate
- Thermometer
- Film Squeegee
- Set of 2 Film Clips
- Full instructions

This is one good example. I have blanked out the reference to a film squeegee, because they are not a good idea.
You also need somewhere to load the film on to the reels in complete darkness - either a room/closet you can make totally dark, or a film changing bag.
In addition, you need a method of timing the processes. If you are organized, a clock with a sweep second hand works fine. A timer is nicer.
For black and white, most people are able to work at room temperature, because that is sufficiently close to 20 C in most circumstances. For colour, you need higher temperatures, and more closely controlled temperatures, so additional resources are needed.

There are other things that might be nice to have as well, but you asked about minimums.

Click to expand...

Ya know something?

After a few years of leaving my film alone or pinch cleaning after the wash I've started using a squeegee. Despite using photoflo I always would get water stains. It lessened when I used my fingers. The past few rolls I started using a squeegee dipped into photoflo water and it's seemed to have solved my problem.

Thanks everyone ,much appreciated. I'll start to get the equip together and once I have tested all my cameras I'll have a go at some processing for myself and then maybe some pinhole stuff !

Developing tank with reel. Measuring cylinder and measuring cap for medicine. Scissors. Two plastic hangers for clothes with clips.
Developer, fixer and wetting agent.

In the dark use side of the scissors to open film. Cut from spool. Cut both ends straight and end which goes to reel to round corners.

If you will store chemicals and water in the room with known and steady temperature you could use room temperature as reference for developing.

Wetting agent is real must at the end of developing.

Put one clothes hanger on the fixture above, set film in the clip. Brake another clip from second clothes hanger and attach to bottom of the film.

Once film is dry, reverse camera lens and use it as the loop to see what is on the negative.

Cut by five frames with same scissors and place in the book to make it flat.

Ko.Fe. said:

Developing tank with reel. Measuring cylinder and measuring cap for medicine. Scissors. Two plastic hangers for clothes with clips.
Developer, fixer and wetting agent.

In the dark use side of the scissors to open film. Cut from spool. Cut both ends straight and end which goes to reel to round corners.

If you will store chemicals and water in the room with known and steady temperature you could use room temperature as reference for developing.

Wetting agent is real must at the end of developing.

Put one clothes hanger on the fixture above, set film in the clip. Brake another clip from second clothes hanger and attach to bottom of the film.

Once film is dry, reverse camera lens and use it as the loop to see what is on the negative.

Cut by five frames with same scissors and place in the book to make it flat.

Click to expand...

I've used dish-soap in the past for a wetting agent. And vinegar for stop bath. Maybe not recommended but it works in a pinch.

Many people also find a good book helpful, one that covers the subject of B&W for beginners very thoroughly is "Black and White Photography" by Horenstein, it can be found on amazon for peanuts (click on the link that says "used")https://www.amazon.com/dp/031637305...ails?_encoding=UTF8&me=&qid=1494275886&sr=8-1

Cholentpot said:

I've used dish-soap in the past for a wetting agent. And vinegar for stop bath. Maybe not recommended but it works in a pinch.

Click to expand...

Please DO NOT use dish soap as a wetting agent. Most contain perfumes, detergent and other additives to make your dishes sparkle - none of which are recommended for film. This has become an oft-repeated recommendation on the internet which is entirely wrong. I have never seen one reputable photography or darkroom book ever recommend using dish soap. Just buy and use a bottle of PhotoFlo or other wetting agent, and it will last you for years. Mix it with distilled water and use it for your final rinse before hanging the film to dry. There should be no need to squeegee or wipe the film at all. If you're using clean distilled water there should be no spots on the film.

jimjm said:

Please DO NOT use dish soap as a wetting agent. Most contain perfumes, detergent and other additives to make your dishes sparkle - none of which are recommended for film. This has become an oft-repeated recommendation on the internet which is entirely wrong. I have never seen one reputable photography or darkroom book ever recommend using dish soap. Just buy and use a bottle of PhotoFlo or other wetting agent, and it will last you for years. Mix it with distilled water and use it for your final rinse before hanging the film to dry. There should be no need to squeegee or wipe the film at all. If you're using clean distilled water there should be no spots on the film.

Click to expand...

Yes, I believe I said it's not recommended. Nor is using coffee to develop film.

When you have 400 feet of expired HP5+ and are shooting 35mm re-rolled onto 120 backing paper out of a 1909 Brownie No.2, developing in HC-110 replenisher and using apple cider vinegar as a stop bath and using fixer that has a fix time of 15 min because it's the unknown roll put through it, I think a drop or two of dishsoap is the least of your problems.

Cholentpot said:

Yes, I believe I said it's not recommended. Nor is using coffee to develop film.

When you have 400 feet of expired HP5+ and are shooting 35mm re-rolled onto 120 backing paper out of a 1909 Brownie No.2, developing in HC-110 replenisher and using apple cider vinegar as a stop bath and using fixer that has a fix time of 15 min because it's the unknown roll put through it, I think a drop or two of dishsoap is the least of your problems.

Click to expand...

To the OP:
Don't do any of the things listed here!
(at least not at the beginning)

I'll throw in some stuff that makes my life easier:

a 50ml graduate for measuring small quantities of developer;

A churchkey style can opener for 35mm cartridges (or you can just cut it off);

Negative storage sleeves (printfile, they sell them on Amazon and camera stores - they're punched for 3-ring binders) - and a pair of cheap white cotton gloves like they sell for jewelry handling. Much, much easier to sleeve your negs without fingerprints.

I'll add that if you can get a closet or small room 100% pitch black, and have a small section of shelf or tabletop to work on - I find this way easier than a changing bag for spooling film. Maybe that's just me, but it's a big difference.

PrintFile are APUG advertisers, you can link to them through APUG's advertiser's forum and you can buy directly from their website.

MattKing said:

To the OP:
Don't do any of the things listed here!
(at least not at the beginning)

Click to expand...

Yep, all you'll have is frustration. Good part is, once you get the knack you do whatever you feel. It ticks off the elders and knowitalls lemme tell ya. Stand develop pulled -2 C-41 in used D-76 1:1 @ 75 degrees? Why not?

Advice from someone who started with a Lubitel 2 and Ektar 100. Stick with 100 speed b&w and a Canon Rebel series camera with a 50 that you wont take below 2.8 it will make things much much easier. Also, D-76, Kodak Fix. Don't mess with anything else yet. Shoot at box speed, yes people say Portra 400 shines at 360...Kodak knows best. Shoot it at 400.

tedr1 said:

Many people also find a good book helpful, one that covers the subject of B&W for beginners very thoroughly is "Black and White Photography" by Horenstein, it can be found on amazon for peanuts (click on the link that says "used")https://www.amazon.com/dp/031637305...ails?_encoding=UTF8&me=&qid=1494275886&sr=8-1

Click to expand...

+1 !

its a book that is often used in "photo I" classes in high schools and colleges.

check the apug classifides often people always sell of tanks and reels ..

Cholentpot said:

Yes, I believe I said it's not recommended. Nor is using coffee to develop film.

Click to expand...

apples and oranges. no one really says don't use coffee to develop your film much anymore, or as much as they used to ..
but jet dry, dawn et al. dish soap and stuff like that have potential of screwing up your film. using coffee, well, if you use the wrong ingredients
if you don't have washing soda and use something else, or "fruit fresh" instead of vit c, you will have trouble ... even if you just use regular old
coffee and nothing else, it will work ... i'll use coffee any day of the week ( and have for 10+ years )
but i will never use dish soap ... not even in a pinch

jnanian said:

no one really says don't use coffee to develop your film much anymore...h

Click to expand...

I do... and will yell it from the rooftops.

The absolute key to getting repeatable results in photography is consistency.

That's not possible with coffee or yogurt or green bean extract.

- Leigh

Leigh B said:

I do... and will yell it from the rooftops.

The absolute key to getting repeatable results in photography is consistency.

That's not possible with coffee or yogurt or green bean extract.

- Leigh

Click to expand...

You must hate me and my methods...

jnanian said:

apples and oranges. no one really says don't use coffee to develop your film much anymore, or as much as they used to ..
but jet dry, dawn et al. dish soap and stuff like that have potential of screwing up your film. using coffee, well, if you use the wrong ingredients
if you don't have washing soda and use something else, or "fruit fresh" instead of vit c, you will have trouble ... even if you just use regular old
coffee and nothing else, it will work ... i'll use coffee any day of the week ( and have for 10+ years )
but i will never use dish soap ... not even in a pinch

Click to expand...

For my first year or so I used zero wetting agent. It made not much of a difference to tell the truth. I started using fotoflo when I scored a free bottle from an old darkroom. Before that? Maybe I would shake the negs to get the water off...

M Carter said:

I'll throw in some stuff that makes my life easier:

a 50ml graduate for measuring small quantities of developer;

A churchkey style can opener for 35mm cartridges (or you can just cut it off);

Negative storage sleeves (printfile, they sell them on Amazon and camera stores - they're punched for 3-ring binders) - and a pair of cheap white cotton gloves like they sell for jewelry handling. Much, much easier to sleeve your negs without fingerprints.

I'll add that if you can get a closet or small room 100% pitch black, and have a small section of shelf or tabletop to work on - I find this way easier than a changing bag for spooling film. Maybe that's just me, but it's a big difference.

Click to expand...

A closet big enough to stand or sit in was my first darkroom for developing by time and temperature. Loaded the film onto a "daylight" tank in a totally dark closet(this means no little light leaks, put a blanket at the bottom of the door to keep the light from coming in under the door, remember the word "dark" then took the loaded tank, which was also light tight, out into the kitchen where I had running water, clock, etc. I actually developed, stopped, fixed and washed the film there, You can learn the details by reading the instructions that come with the developing tank you are going to buy. You ARE going to buy a developing tank aren't you?.........Regards!

+1 for the Paterson kit plus a dark bag.

Also handy depending on where you will be doing your processing would be a cheap plastic washing up bowl which you can use in the winter as a water bath to keep the tank and chemicals at 20°C. Finally, some bottles to keep the used chemicals in (you can reuse the stop and fix a few times). I use brown glass bottles which you can get from some chemists with the child proof (me proof usually) lids.

Download the 'processing your first film' PDF from Ilford and get the Ilford chemicals in the data sheet and you are good to go.

This is exactly what I did to get stated and would whole heartedly recommend the Ilford PDF printout and Paterson kit. My first roll came out really well.

I still use Ilford chemicals and most of the stuff I got with my Paterson kit.

Good luck. The sense of satisfaction you get when you successfully process your first roll of film is amazing.

Assuming you wish to start the easy route, buying easily available film and developing in regular chemistry...

The bare minimum for good, repeatable results is the following

1. Changing bag or totally dark room (eg bathroom with no window)
2. Developing tank.
3. Spiral reel
4. Chemicals (developer, fixer, water)
5. Access to a sink or bathtub.
6. Some means of measuring time eg clock, watch, stopwatch. Accurate to 10 seconds is more than sufficient.
7. Scissors...for cutting the header and tail off the film and for cutting negatives into strips of 4-6 exposures.

And that's it. You can make life easier by having a decent thermometer with a stirring paddle. And by buying a couple of chemical storage bottles and film clips. In the case of the clips, one should be weighted. THough note there is absolutely nothing wrong with using a clothes peg on the top of the film (to attach it to something) and a big blob of Blu-Tak on the bottom to weight it. This helps your film dry evenly and not curl during drying. You can later add more equipment such as measuring jugs or cylinders if you want.

For chemicals, personally I'd recommend keeping it simple at first and using Ilford ID-11 as your developer because it's hard to truly mess up with it...and it will develop pretty much any film made since the 60s including all today's B&W films. Almost any conceivable film you will come across has recommended times for ID-11. If in doubt, develop for 7 minutes in ID-11 with a couple of agitations every minute and you will get *something*. It's also consistent so you can hone your technique before perhaps trying other chemicals if you wish. Any rapid fixer will do, they're much of a muchness. Water can be used as a stop bath to begin with. Wetting agent isn't strictly necessary but it will help your films dry so it would be my first suggestion for addition to the list.

Also try to think about where you're going to do this, and where you can hang your film to dry. A lot of first timers and even experienced bods like myself simply clip the top of the developed film to a shower curtain rail over the shower/bath and weight it at the bottom to drip into the tub. Coat hangers can also be your friend here if the available railings are too thick for clips/pegs.

Developing tanks can be had second hand quite cheaply, or you can go ahead and purchase a kit brand new if you prefer. That way you know everything is clean and hasn't been misused.

Colour is a bit more involved but uses the same tank and spiral...you will definitely need a thermometer which is easy for you to read and a means to make a water bath. A kitchen sink or bath tub is good as is a large washing bowl...you simply fill this with warm water at the required temperature for C41 or E6 process (as required) and add a little hot/warm water if it cools more than 1C lower than the required temperature. Keep your tank and chemical bottles in this warm water so everything is at the correct temperature.

Above all..have fun!

I recently put together a small dev kit, tank, chemicals, film of course, thermometer (I had done films years ago). I didn't want to spend a fortune on graduates (had one already for homebrew), so bought three kitchen jugs at 30 pence each, plus heavy duty clothes pegs we had already. Just an idea to save some money. Also I always recommend when starting something new, just buy the basics first rather than spending serious money upfront - until you know this is for you.