Since i have only been shooting with medium format for a short time, and have mostly just used a Holga, i haven't had the chance to really investigate the finer points of 120 film.
Now that I'm investing in a TLR, then inquiring minds need to know.
1. B&W
2. Color
3. other odd film
If you're not developing your own but already know at which lab you'll send your film, ask them what developer they are using. If it's an "all-purpose" developer like D-76 or Xtol, you'll get good results, and they'll tell you most of what you want to know about the film.
Any idea how "Clayton chemistry" is for FP4?
1. HP5. Delta 400. Pan F 50. Fuji Acros
2. No clue as I do not use colour films.
3. Rollei IR, Ilford SFX
What's the best colour?
What's the best food?
Salt and vinegar chips!Acetic acid
Clayton F76+ has working characteristics very similar to D76, if you like Pf4 or HP5 in D76 ought to work just fine. I use F76+ for Kentmeyer 400, both Ultraine Ex 100 and 200, Tax 400 and Foma 200 and 400 with good results.
Clayton F76+ has working characteristics very similar to D76, if you like Pf4 or HP5 in D76 ought to work just fine. I use F76+ for Kentmeyer 400, both Ultraine Ex 100 and 200, Tax 400 and Foma 200 and 400 with good results.
Fomapan 200 and Fomapan 400. Great films! Just remember to use them at EI 100 and EI 200 respectively.
Warning: Fomapan 200, in 120 format, has been known to have emulsion wrinkling problems. This has been documented here in photrio. This might or might not be annoying. Basically it seems the emulsion crackles whenever it needs to make a sharp turn in the camera (i.e. hasselblad medium format back).
A while ago I found a comment here by a Clayton rep saying that F76+ is basically DD-X, in fact the opposite is true: because Ilford's DD-X came out later. I would assume that's true.
But DD-X is not similar to D76. Not at all. In fact it's much worse.
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