What's pretty much the cheapest 35mm camera?

BetterSense · Sep 23, 2008

Well, my Canon AT-1 apparently didn't fix itself after all. It still exposes about 5% of photos drastically wrong due to the shutter sticking or something. It was a very useful camera for me because I could keep it loaded with B&W all the time, and I had a 2x teleconverter for it and I don't have any other long lenses for my other cameras. I can't afford to fix it, cause it would probably cost over $100. Unfortunately it seems AT1 cameras go for $50 or more, which is still too much. So, I want a cheap camera. It doesn't have to be a canon if the whole works is cheap enough, but I have a canon lens already. The only features I really care about are TTL metering; it can be manual with a viewfinder needle or whatever but I don't want to have to use a meter. I've found some Canon's on keh for $20, but I'm not sure if the lenss I have will fit them. Some are AF.

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2F/2F · Sep 23, 2008

Too bad. If you would switch brands, I would suggest a Minolta SRT 100, 101, etc....

They are a super dooper value on the used market. I have got rid of all of mine, but I liked them when I had them. I would say to check locally before checking eBay. Then try KEH. Mine were $10 - $20 with lenses from thrift shops, and working perfectly.

removed account4 · Sep 23, 2008

would a overhauled ae-1 for $99 work for you?
http://www.slr35.com/

i have known joe for years. he does GREAT work!

bnstein · Sep 24, 2008

All the cameras you list use the 'new' canon lens mount and IIRC will not be compatible with the FD mount on your AT-1. If you are looking at KEH you need the Canon manual focus section (There seems pretty slim pickings there for <$50 though....).

Excalibur2 · Sep 24, 2008

Canon AV1 (aperture priority only) are going cheap.
If you want shutter priority I've seen the AE1 program with 50mm lens go for £15 (pickup only).

btw........check sellers for camera squeek on all "A" models....apparently over time, some cameras get the squeek which comes from the mirror operating mechanism and needs a tiny drop of special oil.

Ian Tindale · Sep 24, 2008

I'd say those 'disposables' are possibly among the cheapest 35mm cameras, certainly regarding the new market - the used market would represent a different story.

John Hermanson · Sep 24, 2008

I've not seen this first hand, but I have heard that Canon used foam strips in the curtain mechanism. This is the same foam found around back covers and (in Olympus OM) pressing against the pentaprism. With age it turns into a tar and will surely affect shutter speeds if it is in the Canon shutter mechanisms. John, www.zuiko.com

eli griggs · Sep 24, 2008

I think if you want a Canon, you'd be better off springing for a tlb, Ftbn or, if at all posable, the F1, 2ed model. There are other great Canon cameras like these, including the EF, and most will take your FD and FL lenses. Those that require manually stopping down the lens to meter carry the advantage of simultaneous depth of field previewing, something overlooked by many photographers nowadays.

Some of these are not the 'cheapest' Canons on the market and you'll have to use hearing aid batteries or a converter for modern button cells, but they are highly reliable and even if the battery dies, will work every time, using the Sunny 16 rule, pocket exposure charts or a stand alone meter which, I understand, you don't want but may one day use.

My first new Canon, by-the-way was an AT-1 and I really loved that little camera, the first of a number of 'A' series Canons I've owned, but for taking pics with an older camera, IMO, an all metal body with mechanical shutter rules.

bnstein · Sep 24, 2008

eli griggs said:
I think if you want a Canon, you'd be better off springing for a tlb, Ftbn or, if at all posable, the F1, 2ed model. There are other great Canon cameras like these, including the EF, and most will take your FD and FL lenses. .

completely agree but way beyond the implied max price of $50.

eli griggs · Sep 24, 2008

bnstein, that's true in most cases but I've had some luck at small, out-of-the-way pawn shops in finding good examples of older camera gear. A lot of the time the shop has just given up on moving anything they might have had in a bargain box for years and will jump at any offer.

He can also post in the wanted section on Craigslist what he's looking for and how much he's willing to spend. It'll cost him nothing and he might just come up with a deal. Also a Freecycle wanted post for free gear can help too. Of course he'll never know if he doesn't try.

Cheers

Jeff Kubach · Sep 24, 2008

You might what to look at the classified section of Apug.

Jeff

elekm · Sep 24, 2008

Here's what's going to happen: You'll either get lucky the first time around. OR, you'll buy the cheapest camera that you can. It won't work. So you'll buy another. Maybe it will work. Maybe it won't. Then you'll buy another. Same thing. You'll repeat this until you, a) give up in frustration, or b) get a working camera.

I'd buy that $99 camera with the knowledge going in that it works.

Going the cheap route can cost you more in the long run. Buy a working camera. Buy it once.

Vonder · Sep 25, 2008

I'll second the recommendation for the AV-1. They are dirt cheap. I got mine for less than $20 and it's in near-mint condition. Don't think that because a camera is cheap it won't work. Cheap cameras are cheap because people don't want them anymore. The AV-1 has never been popular.

Excalibur2 · Sep 25, 2008

Wolfeye said:
I'll second the recommendation for the AV-1. They are dirt cheap. I got mine for less than $20 and it's in near-mint condition. Don't think that because a camera is cheap it won't work. Cheap cameras are cheap because people don't want them anymore. The AV-1 has never been popular.

...and with the AV1 use an adaptor to M42, use any screw lens stopped down at selected F stop, and with TTL it will work out the shutter speed automatically for P&S.....of course you have a readout in the view finder to change aperture to shutter speed.

btw you focus at max aperture for screw lenses but must remember to stop down for the shot, as only FD lenses will work on auto.
Pentax screws are easy to use as they have a stop down slider from max to the set aperture.

sun of sand · Sep 25, 2008

If $50 is too much sell your other cameras
If don't want to do that sell the lenses you have for the canon and buy film and use that film in the camera/s you do have

I'm tight with my money
but if $20 bucks is all you wish to spend on something you really NEED
you don't need it

Just sounds a lot like GAS/persona

Very useful=very valuable does not=$20

Cheap tripod surprisingly good
Amvona Dynatran
Buy one used off ebay. Cheap new. Don't let people tell you they're garbage
They are cheaply manufactured but they're stable like a Bogen.
Do NOT buy a wal-mart piece of crap.

John_Nikon_F · Sep 26, 2008

I think I'd save up, then buy a better body, like the 1st generation AE-1 for $99 that's been overhauled. Either that, or look in the AS IS section of KEH. They sometimes sell bodies that need refoaming for cheap. I've seen some BGN grade Nikkormat bodies going for $25, just because KEH doesn't want to refoam them. If you're willing to do the work yourself, you might be able to get a properly working AT-1 or AE-1 for $45-$50, then buy one of the kits off eBait.

-J

Markok765 · Sep 27, 2008

How about a Olympus XA from KEH? More or less manual, great lens, and tiny size!

Oh, and 65$

TheOtherEast · Sep 28, 2008

I've been happy with my Rebel S, they go for about 40 USD

cdholden · Sep 28, 2008

That Rebel won't work with the older FD lenses that the AT-1 used.

TheOtherEast · Sep 28, 2008

cdholden said:
That Rebel won't work with the older FD lenses that the AT-1 used.

Oh, I figured that was ok because he linked to a bunch of EF cameras. Didn't read close enough I guess.

ajuk · Sep 30, 2008

jnanian said:
would a overhauled ae-1 for $99 work for you?
http://www.slr35.com/

i have known joe for years. he does GREAT work!

Duse the man said $50 was too much!

What's pretty much the cheapest 35mm camera?

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