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what waS your last photography related purchase?


I couldn't fix the light bent because the foot is on there so tight that I couldn't unscrew it without risking bending the tube. So, the fully extended days of this tripod are over. However, it still can be safely be used up to the 3rd extension tube which more than enough. I guess these were popular with people shooting with lighter cameras like Canonette, Trip 35, Instamatics or even Brownies.


You just gave me an idea for a new sewing project, I'll make a pouch for this tripod.
 
Helios 1984 said:
I couldn't fix the light bent because the foot is on there so tight that I couldn't unscrew it without risking bending the tube.
Click to expand...
I do believe the feet are pressed/crimped on and not intended to be removed.

Oh well, still a fun little tripod to enjoy.
 
A JJC leader cutter for both standard- and Barnack long leader 35mm bulk loading.
It looks considerably easier to use than the various template cutters out there:

Amazon.com : JJC 35mm Film Leader Cutter Trimmer,10cm/4cm Standard Film Leader Trimming Tool Front End Cutter Film Loading Tool for Classic Leica 3A 3C IIIF IIIG M1 M2 M3 Fed-1 Bottom-Loading Camera- Easy & Safe : Electronics

Amazon.com : JJC 35mm Film Leader Cutter Trimmer,10cm/4cm Standard Film Leader Trimming Tool Front End Cutter Film Loading Tool for Classic Leica 3A 3C IIIF IIIG M1 M2 M3 Fed-1 Bottom-Loading Camera- Easy & Safe : Electronics
www.amazon.com
 
Picked up a CZJ 85mm Sonnar f/2 for Contax that I have been searching for a long time. I stupidly sold mine years ago and missed it. Now I just have to find my stupid Contax/Leica M adapter that disappeared a few months ago. Always something....
 
Finally after five years of searching, got myself a full Combination Back kit for my Kodak No3 folder. Reasonably priced and not seen much work. Rare as hens teeth I must say. i need 3 1/4" x 4 1/4" film sheaths now if anyone has any to spare.
 
Don_ih said:
But is it easier to use than scissors?
Click to expand...

I find that with some film - looking at you Foma 200 - using scissors to cut the curved portion of the leader sometimes leads to the film splitting if you are not very careful. I've used a template for Leica long leaders and cannot seem to get a clean cut (i.e. without a slightly ragged edge along the cut line) no matter how sharp a razor knife I use.

We'll see if this is any better.
 
chuckroast said:
leads to the film splitting if you are not very careful
Click to expand...

I've cut, IDK, hundreds upon hundreds of leaders on rolls of film. I've never, ever seen the film 'split'. How is this supposed to happen and what does it look like?
Cutting a leader to a roll of film with regular scissors takes between 2 and 3 seconds. All cameras I use eat my dodgy scissor-cut leaders just fine. Whatever it is I'm missing out on, it's not making much of an impact.
 

I find this happens most commonly when cutting long leaders for Barnack Leicas by hand right at the point the curved portion rejoins the film edge. Unless you have some deep magick I do not, I don't see how you cut that long leader in "2 and 3 seconds".

As I said, we'll see if this gadget does things easier or faster. If not, it goes back to the vendor.
 
It's literally 2 movements with the scissors. So let's say 3 seconds rather than 2.

I don't use Barnack Leicas (or Leicas of any other kind) so I guess I must have taken a turn somewhere that has made my life much easier. Lucky me.

I still don't see how the film 'splits'. Which direction does it split into?
 
five packs of TMAX 100. 120 size. four of them.
 

Into the body of the leader. But I am trying to cut a gradual curve by hand rather than just an angled cut, and this might be the culprit.
 
Hm, Ok. I always cut curved cuts as well, but they're generally shorter than yours, which is probably easier.

This took 2 seconds with a plain pair of office scissors. I have trouble envisioning where the tricky part is.
 

The curve doesn't need to be as sharp as the Leica template makes out. It can be more sloping. I have had happen what you describe and it's a result of hitching in your cut as your go around the bend. Non-Leica (i.e., bottom loader Leicas) users won't understand since their film never has to do what the long-leader Leica film does, which is feed past the film gate into a closed sprocket channel. That never happens with any other camera. Anyway, a slight hitch in your cut can make the film split at that point and peel into the shutter curtain (had it happen - I've loaded probably a thousand rolls into Leica III cameras by this point - everything has happened). But, like I said, you don't need such a sharp curve. You really only need to cut off a bit more than the row of sprocket holes.
 
film4Me said:
Finally after five years of searching, got myself a full Combination Back kit for my Kodak No3 folder. Reasonably priced and not seen much work. Rare as hens teeth I must say. i need 3 1/4" x 4 1/4" film sheaths now if anyone has any to spare.
Click to expand...

Does this mean that you can use "postcard" size sheet film approx 3.5x5.5 inches? 122 size?
 
mshchem said:
Does this mean that you can use "postcard" size sheet film approx 3.5x5.5 inches? 122 size?
Click to expand...

No, that is for the larger 3A folder combination back, and I"ll need to custom cut film for that back. I have the two backs now, a 3A and a No3. For the 3A, I will trim 4x5 sheet film, but it ends up 1/2" shorter in length - nothing I can do about that for the time being.

For the No3 back, I have plenty of readily available 3 1/4" x 4 1/4" sheet film. The old roll film for a No3 folder was 118 size. Combination backs allow me to achieve sharp focus via the focusing screen and prevent wasting film. Just using the camera's distance scale alone can be a hit and miss affair.
 

 
A USB rechargeable (head)lamp to put into the VCCE light source for my LPL7700 enlarger.

It looks a bitr like this:


The shape of this one s important, because it lines up well with the opening in the lamphouse that is designed to provide backlight illumination to the contrast setting dial(s) on the light source.
Normally, that illumination comes from some designed in light leakage from the enlarger mixing box, but that has one relatively irritating downside - the dial(s) are only illuminated when the enlarger is turned on for either focusing or exposure. I often need to adjust those settings between various steps in the exposure of a print when I'm using split grade techniques.

I've been using small LED lights that run on replaceable batteries, but it is really easy to forget and leave those lights on when the room lights go on and attention is diverted elsewhere! I'm hoping this will cut down on battery related expense and frustration.

The LPL instruction manual doesn't have a great illustration of where the lamp sits between the slanted top of the mixing box and the removable top of the lamp house, but the red highlighting I've added below should give some idea.




It doesn't seem to get particularly hot in that area - just toasty warm - and the battery powered lights I've been using so far seem to be happy with that, so I don't expect that will be an issue.
 
I bought for a bargain this ragged Horseman 6x7 back, which for a moment I thought was dead on arrival, until I realized it was just fancy enough to detect when it was closed and the movement of the spools for triggering the frame counter.


 
1 box of 4x5 Bergger Pancro (50 sheets)
1 box of 5x7 Bergger Pancro (25 sheets)

direct from Bergger shipped to the US.
 
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