what was the last camera you used, last film and how was it developed

[MartinCrabtree]

F5 with XX. Sent out to a new place and on it's way back.

 

[Mr Flibble]

Took three weeks to fill up a roll of Fomapan 100 in my Olympus PEN-F.
Exposed it mostly with sunny-16 at around EI80.
Developed with Kodak HC-110, Dilution E, for 8 minutes at 20C

 

[Donald Qualls]

around EI80.

Fomapan 100 pushes well. I've occasionally thought it was the same film as Fomapan 400. Regardless, that looks very, very good for half frame and a one stop push...

 

[miha]

C330, Provia 100F, Bellini E6 kit.

 

[murdockhendrix]

Agfa Clack, Arista.EDU Ultra 100, developed at home using B's Processor, Photographers Formulary TD-16, 1:1, 8:33m at 20° C, JOBO 1520 tank, 3 min pre-wash, using quality volume (485-500ml for JOBO 1520), reduced development time by 5% per the B's guide.

Now in my best Paul Harvey voice: "And now for the rest of the story..." I started wearing a smart watch about 4 days ago, that was the last time I thought about it.

Set the bathroom up with the black out curtains to help with the door and lights out even unplugged the little air freshener with a nite light by the sink. Checked to make sure no light from the door, check! Opened the 120 film, unrolled it to my right hand and took the JOBO reel into my left hand, all's well. Until I felt a small vibration on my left wrist. CRAP! The watch lights up, seemed like forever but I wrapped the film tight in my right hand, flipped the watch down on my leg to cover the light and somehow managed to turn the blasted thing off. So glad this roll was a test roll for B's Processor, just snap shots around the community with the Clack. Out of 8 images I lost 4 to the light leak. Lesson learned.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Lesson learned.

Yep. I take off my cell phone and even my Casio Kinetic watch (which isn't smart, but has fairly bright luminous marks on the dial and hands) before going into the darkroom to change film. Turn off the GFCI outlet that powers the enlarging timer and enlarger (and exhaust fan), as it has its own status light. Then I make sure my pocket flashlight is off after switching off the overhead light (it occasionally winds up turned on in my pocket). I used to turn my old Gralab darkroom timer to the wall, as I found after twenty minutes in the dark I could see my hands by its light even then.

I still find I can see my hands as silhouettes after a while if I'm working on a sunny morning; apparently I get enough light through the 1/4" plywood of the window cover for that, but I've never identified fog from that source (I still need to paint that cover black on the room side).

 

[Steven Lee]

Hasselblad 503cx, FP4+ in Xtol.

 

[murdockhendrix]

Holga 120Pan, Ilford Pan F Plus 50, developed at home using B's Processor, Photographers Formulary TD-16, 1:1, 8:05m at 20° C, JOBO 1520 tank, 3 min pre-wash, using quality volume (485-500ml for JOBO 1520), reduced development time by 5% per the B's guide.

Cattails and Lily Pads by Richard Hendrix, on Flickr

 

[Mr Flibble]

Fomapan 100 pushes well. I've occasionally thought it was the same film as Fomapan 400. Regardless, that looks very, very good for half frame and a one stop push...

I like Fomapan 100 well enough, can't beat the price.
Shot another roll of it last Sunday, with a Leica MD-2, with a 28mm f/3.5 W-Komura lens on it.
Developed in HC-110, E, 8min, 20C

Polish Honor Guard at the monument for the Battle of Capelse Veer. A little too much motion blur in the Willow tree for my liking, but it was pretty darn windy.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

New-to-me Pentax 67, Kodak Tri-X 400, Pyrocat HD 1:1:100. Lenses used include the 55 f4, 75 f4.5, 105 f2.4, 120 f3.5 Soft Focus, and 165 f2.8. Results forthcoming.

 

[AnselMortensen]

Nikon F3HP, 105mm f/2.5 AIS, TMY400.
Awaiting finishing the roll.

 

[Paul Manuell]

Pentax 645NII
Kodak Portra 160
Developed in a shop in Penzance

 

[fophem]

Mamiya 7II HP5 @320 D231+1 12' @20°C

 

[murdockhendrix]

Holga 120Pan, Arista.EDU Ultra 400, shot at ISO 100, used a Vivitar #08 Yellow filter, developed at home using B's Processor, Photographers Formulary TD-16, 1:1, 8:19m at 20° C, JOBO 1520 tank, 3 min pre-wash, using quality volume (485-500ml for JOBO 1520), reduced development time by 5% per the B's guide.



Lonely Bench in 6x12 by Richard Hendrix, on Flickr

 

[instography]

Hello. New here. Zeiss Ikon 6x6 folder picked up on eBay. Delta 400 (expired July 2011 and treated abominably). Developed in an old, open bottle of Exactol Lux that's been kicking around the garage for nearly as long as the film. He wasn't kidding when he said its shelf life was good. Waiting on the negatives to dry so I can look at the properly but they look surprisingly good considering. I'll add something unedited when I can.

 

[loccdor]

Hello. New here. Zeiss Ikon 6x6 folder picked up on eBay. Delta 400 (expired July 2011 and treated abominably). Developed in an old, open bottle of Exactol Lux that's been kicking around the garage for nearly as long as the film. He wasn't kidding when he said its shelf life was good. Waiting on the negatives to dry so I can look at the properly but they look surprisingly good considering. I'll add something unedited when I can.

Welcome, I hope you find these forums as good a resource as I have. Folders can be great fun.

I am going to shoot 3 E-6 films (2 Sensia 100 exp 2010 and a Provia 100F exp 2014) in this next development batch on an EOS Elan 7E with Tamron 45mm and 85mm f/1.8 lenses. Bored of my typical subjects though and need to find something new. Will be home developed in Arista E-6.

 

[murdockhendrix]

Holga 120Pan, 2 rolls Arista.EDU Ultra 200, shot at ISO 100, used a Vivitar #08 Yellow filter or Vivitar #02 Orange filter, developed at home using B's Processor, Photographers Formulary TD-16, 1:1, 6:30m at 20° C, JOBO 1510/1530 tank combo (2 rolls), 3 min pre-wash, using economy volume (500ml for JOBO 1510/1530), increased development time by 15% per the B's guide.




Bleached Tree Kayak Launch by Richard Hendrix, on Flickr

 

[sojournermike]

Fuji GF670 with a roll of XP2 developed in Steve Anchell’s two bath (the one that’s a bit like 4 mins of D23 followed by 4 mins of sodium carbonate solution). Technically, I used a digital camera to digitise it, but this seems to be a film focused thread.

Mike

 

[murdockhendrix]

Not sure why the vignetting on this image. I used the hood for the 75mm Nikkor-P lens on the whole roll. The vignetting shows on some of the images.

Bronica EC-TL, Bronica Nikkor-P 75mm f/2.8, Kentmere Pan 100, used a Hoya Orange (G) filter, developed at home using B's Processor, Photographers Formulary TD-16, 1:1, 11:00m at 20° C, JOBO 1520 tank, 3 min pre-wash, used quality volume (500ml for the JOBO 1520), decreased development time by 5% per the B's guide.


Fishing Dock by Richard Hendrix, on Flickr

 

[DF]

One roll Ektachrome, the other Velvia shot via Minolta SRT 101 shipped/processed at AgX Upper Mich.
Lenses MC 58 1.4 (yes, just came across thread about cleaning "soft" / hard 58 1.4).
No more B&W for time being but miss it.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Not sure why the vignetting on this image. I used the hood for the 75mm Nikkor-P lens on the whole roll. The vignetting shows on some of the images.

Bronica EC-TL, Bronica Nikkor-P 75mm f/2.8, Kentmere Pan 100, used a Hoya Orange (G) filter,

If the hood was mounted to the filter, it was pushed forward several millimeters, apparently enough to encroach on the corners of the FOV.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

C330, Rolleicord, Mamiya-Six, all at the same time, Delta 400, XTol 1+1. Working out which of my 6x6 cameras to keep... judging sharpness through handholding, ease of use...

 

[murdockhendrix]

If the hood was mounted to the filter, it was pushed forward several millimeters, apparently enough to encroach on the corners of the FOV.

Hi Donald,

Thanks for the reply. According to my notes the yellow (K2) filter didn't vignette on the images it was used on. The Hoya orange (O) filter did vignette on the images. I guess the next clear day we have here I'll need to run a test using the filters in question. Plus I do not think the hood is a bona fide Bronica 67mm hood.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Not sure why the vignetting on this image. I used the hood for the 75mm Nikkor-P lens on the whole roll. The vignetting shows on some of the images.

Bronica EC-TL, Bronica Nikkor-P 75mm f/2.8, Kentmere Pan 100, used a Hoya Orange (G) filter, developed at home using B's Processor, Photographers Formulary TD-16, 1:1, 11:00m at 20° C, JOBO 1520 tank, 3 min pre-wash, used quality volume (500ml for the JOBO 1520), decreased development time by 5% per the B's guide.


Fishing Dock by Richard Hendrix, on Flickr

If the hood was mounted to the filter, it was pushed forward several millimeters, apparently enough to encroach on the corners of the FOV.

The vignetting might not appear with a "thin" or "wide angle" filter alone and using such a filter with a lens hood the vignetting might not appear. One would have to test both configurations.

 

[DF]

Fuji GF670 with a roll of XP2 developed in Steve Anchell’s two bath (the one that’s a bit like 4 mins of D23 followed by 4 mins of sodium carbonate solution). Technically, I used a digital camera to digitise it, but this seems to be a film focused thread.

Mike

Interesting to see these two faiths buried side by side -
Could you say where this is?
'Never have seen this before....