What tool(s) to separate column and baseboard on a Durst Modular 70?

[John51]

As above.

I'll be picking this up in a couple of nights. I guess the baseboard will need to come off to fit into my brothers hatchback. Would rather bring the correct tools than be attacking it with my Leatherman.

Thanks

 

[RobC]

you just need a spanner to undo 4 bolts. Can't remember what size so an adjustable spanner (wrench) will do it. They are not very big, maybe 16mm head or so.

Put head all the way to top of column and lock in position. Then take off the head components which are easy to remove. Then the column can be removed. There should be a metal plate on the underside of baseboard which spreads the load of the column. You just remove the bolts in that plate. Its not very heavy unlike the L1200 which is very heavy.

 

[John51]

Thank you. I hadn't thought about taking components off the head. I'd have been watching bits fall off as I was carrying it.

 

[RobC]

Thank you. I hadn't thought about taking components off the head. I'd have been watching bits fall off as I was carrying it.

You don't take off the actual spring mechanism but pretty much everything else comes off.

You probably want this:

http://www.film-and-darkroom-user.org.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1728&d=1365233972

 

[paul_c5x4]

you just need a spanner to undo 4 bolts. Can't remember what size so an adjustable spanner (wrench) will do it. They are not very big, maybe 16mm head or so.

Probably not even that big - I'd go armed with a 10mm & 13mm ring spanner and a set of metric hex keys. That said, a Modular 70 enlarger is not particularly big and I would expect it would fit in most hatchbacks. But if you are using a Smart Car, make sure it has a roof-rack

 

[ic-racer]

As above.

I'll be picking this up in a couple of nights. I guess the baseboard will need to come off to fit into my brothers hatchback. Would rather bring the correct tools than be attacking it with my Leatherman.

Thanks

I don't think you need any tools beyond your hands for those modular enlargers.

 

[davedm]

As Pauls says you need ring /D Spanners 10 to 14 mm or a single adjustable wrench. (I recently disassembled an M670 with color module so I know)

Here is a video of a guy assembling his M605 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XSRsWImayA). You can infer from it.


The column is probably mounted by two (or more) 13mm bolts. Separate base board and column and wrap your rear seat belts around the column and buckle up. Put base board in your trunk wrapped in bubble wrap. Secure the head in a box with generous amounts of bubble wrap and/or beans. If it is a colour enlarger, detach and store transformer separately.

 

[John51]

Thanks for all the replies. I picked it up last night and they had the baseboard already separated for me. In case anyone has a similar question in future, the column and head easily fitted on the back seat with the (much heavier than I was expecting) baseboard on the floor standing vertically.

The build quality makes my Fujimoto G70 seem like a toy. 2 stops of neutral density adjustment is going to be so useful.

 

[RobC]

Its a very nice enlarger. I have one but its in storage at the moment. The negative holder is to die for and the ability to lock the column head so it doesn't creep down is also a big plus.


Which head do you have for it? I have the colour head and also the B+W head. The B+W head is nice becasue the filter drawer is above the negative.
The colour head uses 170 units for CMY filters which are fairly well speed matched to Ilford papers. And yes the 2 stops of ND is useful although the dial doesn't seem to have readable units of ND being dialed in which the L1200 does. i.e. You may need to do some tests and mark the head with 1 stop and half stop increments.

 

[John51]

It has the colour head. What looks like the ND dial is currently stuck. Should be able to sort that once I've stripped it down. Lack of readable units won't bother me as I'll be using it in combination with a Paterson meter, moving the ND dial instead of altering the lens aperture. Assuming my meter is fit for purpose, I won't have to do that many tests to get repeatable exposure accuracy thanks to the ND dial.

 

[John51]

the ability to lock the column head so it doesn't creep down

I haven't managed to find that. Close to the rail, on the opposite side to the winding handle, are 2 small threaded holes.

Got the ND dial sorted, just gummed up from lack of use.

 

[RobC]

the ability to lock the column head so it doesn't creep down

I haven't managed to find that. Close to the rail, on the opposite side to the winding handle, are 2 small threaded holes.

Got the ND dial sorted, just gummed up from lack of use.

its on front of column under the head. There should be a knob there. The focussing doesn't lock though so its the friction holds that in place.

View attachment 121494

 

[John51]

No, it hasn't got one. That grey plate with 4 screws, bottom left of picture, isn't there on my model.

 

[RobC]

as far as I was aware all mod70 enlargers had that locking knob. You must have an older model or the column from another model with a mod 70 head on it.

 

[John51]

Ah well, it was cheap enough. The handbook covers Basic-Color-Vario. No mention of the Micro so I guess it predates that.

The head seem to hold steady well enough when the right way up. Not so when upside down but I doubt I'll be projecting onto the ceiling much.

 

[RobC]

I think you may have the Mod 70 Start whereas I have the Mod 70 Start Pro.

The start has a winding crank whereas the Start Pro has counter balanced head with a rotating fine drive which can be disconected from the toothed rack by rotating it so the head slides up and down supported on the balance spring. The columns are different too. Otherwise they are the same except that you can make bigger prints on the start pro (the column to lens axis distance is greater on the start pro).

modular 70 Start

Modular 70 Start Pro

 

[John51]

Mine is the Start, has a winding handle. It can do 20x16, that is big enough for me. If ever column drop becomes a problem, I'm sure I'll figure something out.

They're built well so I'm not worried about ever needing mechanical spares. If the electrics quit, all I'll need is a redundant PC power supply, a relay and some electric string.

 

[RobC]

how big you can print depends also on your easel. You have about 10 inches from column to lens axis. But your easel will take at least 2 inches of that and maybe 3 or more depending on the easel. I think you'lll find it does 16x12 easily, 20x16 just if your easel allows it. But if you aren't using an easel then 20x16 easily. I'm talking actual image size rather than paper size.

 

[paul_c5x4]

Mine is the Start, has a winding handle. It can do 20x16, that is big enough for me. If ever column drop becomes a problem, I'm sure I'll figure something out.

If it is the same as the other Durst enlargers I've looked at, there is usually a nylon button behind a plate on the rear of the carriage - Sometimes, just tightening the four screws on the plate is sufficient, other times, a thin shim washer needs to be installed.

 

[John51]

I've just set it up where it will be used. As I won't be doing any printing till after the new year, I set the column to 60cms with the measuring bar only just showing. Will see if it has crept down after the holidays.