What to do with the FM2???

[LifeIn35mm]

So I have a Nikon FM2. I really like the Fm2 because it has an awesome metering system. However my Fm2 doest really work. Sometimes its shutter curtain will get stuck a few millimeters from closing and the mirror gets stuck up. What I have to do to fix this is open up the bottom an move this thing. If I have film in the camera it will leak light onto the film. Also the meter started flickering back and forth between overexposed, exposed correctly and underexposed when looking at something. I will be looking at a shot and the meter will constantly just flicker around. I would like some advice on what to do. Should I get it CLAd (If so please recommend a good place) or should I buy a CLAd camera? I would like to go with the cheapest option but I would like my Fm2 working for many years to come. Thanks.

 

[fstop]

Send it in to KEH (or others) if it has sentimental value. Otherwise buy another one.

Things you could do yourself are
Clean battery contacts.
Move film speed dial back and forth several times to wipe the contacts.
Rotate aperture ring several times.
Replace mirror bumper foam and clean mirror.

Shutter sounds like it has melted foam stuck on it. Clean it carefully with lighter fluid or coleman fuel (naptha) and a lint free swab.Both sides.Do not use any pressure. touch swab to surface and roll it while moving horizontally from the pivot side to the free end.

 

[mgb74]

If it was mine, it would be off to www.garryscamera.com

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Forget another one. Even if supposedly working you have no idea for how long. Get yours CLA'd by a good technician and then you'll be great shape and know it.

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

Use that cla money and put it to a fm3a

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Use that cla money and put it to a fm3a

Or that. yes. That would work too.

 

[MattKing]

Sounds like it needs more than just a CLA. Remember, a CLA is a maintenance procedure, not a repair procedure.

 

[lxdude]

If you like the camera, get a CLA. It will be good for many years to come.

 

[LifeIn35mm]

Sounds like it needs more than just a CLA. Remember, a CLA is a maintenance procedure, not a repair procedure.

True, do you recommend buying another one and CLAing that?

 

[lxdude]

Sounds like it needs more than just a CLA. Remember, a CLA is a maintenance procedure, not a repair procedure.

That's true, but a CLA often fixes problems caused by deteriorated foam getting into mechanisms (particularly vertical shutters), old lubricant, or corroded contacts.
My Pentax guy, Eric Hendrickson, also does routine repairs, those common to older machines, for no extra charge. He even made right a Pentax ME Super, which had been worked on by some ham-handed fool, (whose use of super glue made the work more difficult), and charged me just the standard CLA price.

 

[LifeIn35mm]

I think I'm just going to pick up an FM to get CLAd.

 

[Xmas]

Shutter sounds like it has melted foam stuck on it. Clean it carefully with lighter fluid or coleman fuel (naptha) and a lint free swab.Both sides.Do not use any pressure. touch swab to surface and roll it while moving horizontally from the pivot side to the free end.

No you have not read the op...

If the jam clears with the bottom off it is unlikely to be the shutter, if you touch the shutter it could be instant origami. Relube bottom parts a normal fix if not too worn,

meter problems can also be the AI variable resistor an easy fix...

 

[John Koehrer]

Generally a CLA will clear up many problems and doesn't incur additional charges.

The FM2 is a higher valued camera than the FM. IMO It would be worth spending an equivalent
dollar amount for the fix than for an unknown FM from the bay.

 

[Aja B]

The variable in the equation is the flickering meter lights. I think a CLA ($80-100) would rectify the shutter and mirror problems. But RnR'ing the meter display or pcb could be pricey relative to the replacement cost of the camera - with another camera of unknown history. (Any chance old batteries would cause flickering?) If it looks like a low-mileage body, I'd gamble and go with CLA. If high-mileage and looking a bit tired, I'd probably move on to another 'fresher' body w/ or w/out a warranty, e.g. another FM2n. An FM3a, however fiscally unresponsible, could be an excellent choice.

My general approach to these things is all about reliability - either I pay for it and have it or I wish I paid for it. Good money after bad makes for a slow burn.

 

[John Koehrer]

Most often flickering led's or jumpy needle is dirty contacts.
Depending on the camera you have 1)ASA dial/ring 2)speed dial and 3)aperture ring. Some are combined and some aren't so there's a number of places to tarnish.

 

[jeffbennett]

If you want to have the camera serviced, I would recommend Authorized Photo Service (www.nikoncamerarepair.com). They did a great job on my F3HP, which had some LCD display deterioration. They were able to get the parts that others didn't seem to have access to, and really did an overhaul on the camera. It came back like new, and for what was done, i thought the price was reasonable.

You can always get an estimate. If you get the camera serviced, at least you know what you have as opposed to buying another used one of unknown condition.

 

[Xmas]

If your family needed to send the wagon off for a CLA you would still be in StLouis?

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

If your family needed to send the wagon off for a CLA you would still be in StLouis?

No, Navin Johnson.

 

[fstop]

No you have not read the op...

If the jam clears with the bottom off it is unlikely to be the shutter, if you touch the shutter it could be instant origami. Relube bottom parts a normal fix if not too worn,

meter problems can also be the AI variable resistor an easy fix...

I'm only going by my personal experience with cameras that have mirror stuck up AND shutter issues at the same time.
In either case a forced reset is not a good sign.I clean shutters all the time, with proper care you won't damage them.
before I tear cameras apart for electrical issues I give all the contacts a good work out.
I never suggest to anyone not a camera service tech to lube anything BEFORE doing a simple a test that will not harm mechanical components.
Use naphta/lighter fluid to "lube" the point you think needs lube. This will soften dried grease. If the problem goes away then you can attempt to lube that point. If it does not solve the problem the naphta/lighter fluid will evaporate and not leave oil in place is does not need to be and in most case will not wash the grease off leaving a lube point without lube.
I have thrown oil soaked A series Canons and a few Nikons in the garbage because the owner started oiling things unnecessarily.

 

[John_Nikon_F]

Camera needs to be overhauled. The meter issue is the FRE (functional resistance element) that's either broken or dirty. With FM2 bodies, I'd be more tempted to replace it with another. That is, unless your camera is real clean. An overhaul will run anywhere between $140 and $150, plus tax or shipping. A decent FM2n with a six month warranty will run about $150-$160 through KEH. BGN grade bodies will look pretty clean. EX grade bodies, very clean. EX+, you can eat off of them.

Frequently, the FRE problem will require replacement of the part to get things working properly. I've had a few FM2n bodies with this problem. Cleaning gets it better, but, still not great. Now, whenever I look at getting a body, if I buy it locally, I'll set the camera to 1/8 of a second (and 1/15), center the meter with the aperture ring, then slowly rotate the shutter speed dial while remaining at the shutter speed. If there's ANY twitchiness to the LED readout, I pass on the camera. It will only get worse. The majority of bodies I've dealt with that have had this problem are in the 747xxxx or higher range for chrome bodies, and 752xxxx or higher for black. I've had one lower serial chrome FM2n that did it, but I kinda expected that, since the camera had looked like it visited hell a couple times. Very beat up.

-J

 

[Xmas]

Camera needs to be overhauled. The meter issue is the FRE (functional resistance element) that's either broken or dirty. With FM2 bodies, I'd be more tempted to replace it with another. That is, unless your camera is real clean. An overhaul will run anywhere between $140 and $150, plus tax or shipping. A decent FM2n with a six month warranty will run about $150-$160 through KEH. BGN grade bodies will look pretty clean. EX grade bodies, very clean. EX+, you can eat off of them.

Frequently, the FRE problem will require replacement of the part to get things working properly. I've had a few FM2n bodies with this problem. Cleaning gets it better, but, still not great. Now, whenever I look at getting a body, if I buy it locally, I'll set the camera to 1/8 of a second (and 1/15), center the meter with the aperture ring, then slowly rotate the shutter speed dial while remaining at the shutter speed. If there's ANY twitchiness to the LED readout, I pass on the camera. It will only get worse. The majority of bodies I've dealt with that have had this problem are in the 747xxxx or higher range for chrome bodies, and 752xxxx or higher for black. I've had one lower serial chrome FM2n that did it, but I kinda expected that, since the camera had looked like it visited hell a couple times. Very beat up.

-J

Hi

Checked my 840xxxx chrome (FM2n) and it seem ok but not critical for me as I use it without batteries most of time.

I suffer from needles even if they are not hypodermic or equally LEDs, they are too compelling.

A Weston with invercone... in pocket.

Noel

 

[LifeIn35mm]

I just ended up buying a CLAd FM on eBay for $100. The FM2 was in bad shape-I got it for free on craigslist and it had dents and scratches all over the body. Thanks you all for the replays.