What to do with Seattle Film Works (ECN2) stock?

keyofnight · Dec 22, 2012

So, I picked up a couple rolls of Seattle Film Works 5247, dated March 1990from an estate sale. They were only charging 25cents for two, so I figured I couldn't go wrong.

I hear this stock has an anti-halation layer on it that can harm the average C41 machine or working solution. Where can I get this stuff developed, and what would you guys do if you had a couple rolls of this stuff sitting around? (Don't say, "Throw it away!")

thegman · Dec 22, 2012

I've read that Richard Photo Lab can process movie film, maybe give them an email.

wildbill · Dec 22, 2012

throw it out. it's likely quite fogged.
or search ecn2 here and find many threads answering all your questions about movie film in a still camera.

brianmquinn · Dec 22, 2012

https://www.facebook.com/xxltdlab

and

Dead Link Removed

Mustafa Umut Sarac · Dec 22, 2012

keyoffight,

Google , short cut movie film. You can buy FRESH movie film for same price today.

kevs · Dec 23, 2012

Use it to practice loading a spiral, for testing cameras. Or spray it with syrup/treacle and hang it from the ceiling to catch flies...

keyofnight · Dec 24, 2012

brianmquinn said:
https://www.facebook.com/xxltdlab

and

Dead Link Removed

Thanks. I'll contact them.

JBrunner · Dec 24, 2012

Not likely worth the trouble. Movie film, even properly processed, generally disappoints compared to color films. But if it sounds fun, enjoy the adventure.

railwayman3 · Dec 24, 2012

JBrunner said:
Not likely worth the trouble. Movie film, even properly processed, generally disappoints compared to color films. But if it sounds fun, enjoy the adventure.

Agreed, don't bother with it, unless you like experimenting, (or keep it as a collectable). I remember this sustem at the time...seemed a great idea to get slides and prints from the same film, but it proved a compromise that didn't do either job well as using the correct film for each purpose.

Kodak in the UK used to offer a service for "Kodacolor transparencies" from colour negs. I still have some of these slides from sets which my Dad did for work purposes, where maybe a dozen of each pic was needed....they are very good when seen on their own, but don't have the sparkle or depth of colour of a reversal film.

frobozz · Dec 24, 2012

keyofnight said:
Thanks. I'll contact them.

Let me know if you're successful at that. They seem to have gone off the grid (or maybe it's just my calls and emails Karl's not returning.)

Duncan

Besk · Dec 24, 2012

My slides taken in the 1970's faded to nothing. Thank goodness I used Kodachrome mostly.

Gerald C Koch · Dec 24, 2012

wildbill said:
throw it out. it's likely quite fogged.

Ditto

Paul Verizzo · Dec 31, 2012

Forget it, best advice is to make flypaper from it.

You can successfully get color neg images using C-41 kit at home, plus manual removal of the anti-halation layer. But no telling how the colors will curve out. I've done it, just for fun.

The problem is, what's next? It is a low contrast film intended to be "printed" onto a high contrast reversal material. Kodak's Vericolor 5022, IIRC, was a low volume film that would do that. Kodak also had a number of different "print" films over the years to make the movies.

Being low contrast, prints never came out very well. I had this done, with slides, for years from Identicolor in North Hollywood. Ditto RGB color, and they would make the "print" slides from any C-41 film very nice.

Maybe you could scan the negs into something usable, but the flypaper advice is still the best.

Bottom line, why bother?

keyofnight · Jan 2, 2013

Paul Verizzo said:
Bottom line, why bother?

You folks are right. I'm just going to use it to practice spooling film. (;

wogster · Jan 2, 2013

Paul Verizzo said:
Forget it, best advice is to make flypaper from it.

You can successfully get color neg images using C-41 kit at home, plus manual removal of the anti-halation layer. But no telling how the colors will curve out. I've done it, just for fun.

The problem is, what's next? It is a low contrast film intended to be "printed" onto a high contrast reversal material. Kodak's Vericolor 5022, IIRC, was a low volume film that would do that. Kodak also had a number of different "print" films over the years to make the movies.

Being low contrast, prints never came out very well. I had this done, with slides, for years from Identicolor in North Hollywood. Ditto RGB color, and they would make the "print" slides from any C-41 film very nice.

Maybe you could scan the negs into something usable, but the flypaper advice is still the best.

Bottom line, why bother?

If you aren't sure how to spool film on a steel reel, perfect practice material.....

keyofnight · Jan 2, 2013

wogster said:
If you aren't sure how to spool film on a steel reel, perfect practice material.....

I do it pretty well, but I'd like to practice it so I can reduce the possibility of screwing it up in the future. (;

Paul Howell · Jan 3, 2013

Last week I found a couple of rolls I shot in he 70s, from I recall the selling point was to get both negatives and slides from the same roll. Both the slides and the negatives are faded, the prints from the oringial negatives were very gainey and high contrast and starting to fad, looks like they were printed on GAF paper. At any rate I would not bother to shoot and then pay for the addtional process.

What to do with Seattle Film Works (ECN2) stock?

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