What to do with my FD cameras ?

[lordvader]

Hey all !

So I'm presented with a dilemma. I have two Canon FD cameras (well, 3, actually ...). An AE1-P, and an A1. Both are in dire need of a CLA (squeaky mirror, for starters), but only want one 35mm SLR for taking spur of the moment handhelds.

The thought of getting a Nikon F100 has crossed my mind, but already have such a collection of FD lenses, I don't wanna start again

So, do I get a CLA done on the AE-1P, the A1, OR fork out and get an F1N (or even a T90) ?
Pricewise, it'll all cost about the same (I think), and I am more emotionally attached to the lenses than to the cameras.

 

[Pumal]

They are all good. With the New F-1 ca'nt go wrong. Each one of my FD's has a different purpose. The FD glass is excellent; with rare exceptions. I have hundreds. They are dirt cheap today.

 

[waynecrider]

Do you actually want a 4th FD body? And who's to say it wouldn't need a cla, maybe not right away but sooner then you would want. I'd say look at your film consumption and base your decision on that. 1 roll a month, don't buy anything. 2 rolls a month keep your camera in good condition. 3 rolls a month, get a body you've always longed for.
I've found that cameras are like cats. You can wind up with too many too fast and they seem to never go away.

 

[darinwc]

I'd say to sell one and put the $ toward a CLA. A good CLA on even an AE-1P will result in a much better camera than any non-CLA'd camera, even the F1 or T90.

 

[John Koehrer]

As cheap as AE1's & P's are it's not worth spending much for a CLA. Put the AE bodies up for sale & take that plus the $$ you would spend for a CLA & buy the F1n.

 

[Jeff Kubach]

Check out KEH and see what the prices are.

Jeff

 

[Jerevan]

I have been through the buying spree, buying another camera when the one on hand doesn't work as it should. Today I feel that it is false economy - how would you know the next camera works okay? The only reasonable way (as I see it, YMMV) is to get a CLA for the camera in hand. My own camera was CLA'd 4 years ago and is still ticking along.

As a bonus, my negatives are more evenly exposed and I know the mistakes are on me and not because of a possibly malfunctioning camera.

 

[danegermouse]

i just turned six non-working a-series cameras into three functioning ones. a little diy goes a long way. i am no camera tech but with a syringe, some watch oil and some light seals you would be surprised what a few hours can achieve. i now have 2 working black ae-1 programs and an a-1 (i already use a new f-1 and a chrome ae-1p) that will provide me with some cash to buy other things i will use (like film and strobe gels).

if the cameras worked would you still want a different one? if so just do it and get the new f-1. the t90 is good for the metering but its plastic body doesn't feel as good as the f-1. when you can be bothered fix the old ones and sell them to someone who would love them. i have had these cameras for 4 years or more waiting for me to fix them and i finally did it and if i can, anyone can.

dane.

 

[lordvader]

Hmmm ... with 3 FD cameras lying around, I'm sure I can "sacrifice" one in order to try and fix it ...

Where did you find the howto do this ? I'm resonably ok when it comes to DIY ...

For what it's worth, all my FD cameras have a squeaky mirror, and the film advance feels a little stiff ...

i just turned six non-working a-series cameras into three functioning ones. a little diy goes a long way. i am no camera tech but with a syringe, some watch oil and some light seals you would be surprised what a few hours can achieve. i now have 2 working black ae-1 programs and an a-1 (i already use a new f-1 and a chrome ae-1p) that will provide me with some cash to buy other things i will use (like film and strobe gels).

 

[flatulent1]

I would fork out for the T90. Great camera. Second choice would be the F1N. Last choice would be having the A-1 or AE-1P CLA'd. In fact, I disposed of mine before I would spend any more money on them, too many other cameras I enjoy shooting with more than I did those two.

 

[waynecrider]

My feeling is that trying to sell any FD camera in the condition you mention is not worth the time it takes to list it or to slep to the post office. They are essentially worth nothing to very little. Unless someone needs parts no one is even going to bother. They can go to KEH and buy a working model with a return policy in really nice condition.
There's a guy up in Illinois that cla's FD's for $45 + $8 s&h. Cheap enough really and he does good work. http://www.garryscamera.com/. You can get them cla'd and try and sell them, but FD bodies are not a hot commodity unless they're T90's or F1's and even then I don't believe they're flying off the shelves in this economy. Right now the lenses are the value for the micro 4/3rd's crowd and if I personally were to spend any money whatsoever in FD it would be for the better glass. In fact, as has been mentioned over and over, a body is just a light tight container for the glass. It's really all about the glass and it's signature. Not that some features are nice to have on a body. Nowadays tho I see more benefit in a plain jane body like a FTbn then in most electronic marvels with all the features.
The unfortunate thing for alot of us owners of FD bodies, as well as 60's and 70's bodies in other lineups, is that it is getting to the point where they're just not that wanted anymore. Many buyers consistently desire the perfect looking, un-marked, un-dinged, un-brassed body even tho they can be perfect shooting cameras in good mechanical condition. So what becomes of the ugly camera child? It's getting to the point that alot of it is becoming basically drawer fill and door stops in todays digital and economic climate. That's were the bargains are.

 

[lxdude]

Even if the CLA exceeds the market value of most bodies, remember that most of those bodies have not been CLA'd. With a CLA, you have a camera that should serve well for a long time. So market value isn't the last word on what to expect a camera to actually cost. Still, a CLA is fairly cheap and the purpose of the CLA is to put the camera in reliable usable condition, which is always a question mark with a machine which has not received a CLA.

Bottom line, even after a CLA, the camera's still not expensive and resale value isn't really the point.

 

[Pumal]

I CLAD and use them all. It's fullish to sell them. There is some spectacular glass like the 50mm f/1.4 with the metal ring in the back.

 

[lordvader]

Agreed. I have one of those 50mm 1.4 (with the metal ring ).
I do find that it really throws off the metering on my cameras (like it assumes the scene is much lighter than it is). Not sure if it's the camera or the lens though

 

[danegermouse]

try this one

www.paradesquare.ca/canon_fd/a_series_chirp.htm

i have also found that if you lift the mirror there is a little hole on the left of the chamber that holds the lever for the mirror governor. if you point the syringe in the little hole you can use some oil to lubricate the shutter and mirror gears at the same time. of course the more you oil, the more messy it gets. be prepared to have the cameras out of action for a little while because the residual oil does leak onto the shutter curtain. i have had to wait a few days to make sure the oil dried out a little and spread sufficiently.

be patient, you may have to repeat the steps few times and you should wait a few hours between the tries because sometimes the oil just needs time to settle. GOOD LUCK!

dane.

 

[sangetsu]

I live in Japan and my local junk shop gets A1 and AE1 cameras at least a couple times a month. I usually buy them for $5 apiece (which usually includes a lens), clean them up, and sell them on eBay.

The squeaky shutter/dragging mirror problem is not difficult to fix, there are a few methods on the internet on how to fix the problem if you search around. If you are looking for a simpler and more reliable FD body, pick up an FTb. I've had a couple which saw years of use and had no problems at all. They are a little clunkier than an AE1, but they are more ruggedly constructed, and will still function if the battery dies.