What paper can I use?

Sorrycharlie

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I’m looking at purchasing an old enlarger with a colour head to print B&W, something like a Meopla 6 or an AGFA c66. So from what I’ve read it seems I need to use Variable Contrast paper? When I look through the Ilford paper I’m looking at Multigrade paper and it mostly seems to have RC instead of VC written on it. There are some that have VC. My question is can I use the ilford Multigrade iv RC pearl 5x7 paper with an enlarger like this? Does the RC mean the same as Variable Contrast. Thank you
 

revdoc

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RC means resin coated, i.e., the paper has a plastic coating. This shortens the time needed to develop and fix the print. Some papers don't have that coating, and are usually labelled FB, for fibre base.

Pretty much all BW paper is variable contrast these days, both RC and FB. E.g., when Ilford say "multigrade", they mean VC. So that Ilford paper will be fine.
 

jimjm

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Multigrade (MG) is Ilford's terminology for variable-contrast (VC) paper. If you're just starting out, resin-coated (RC) paper is easier to use than fiber (FB) paper as the development and wash times are shorter, and it generally dries quicker and flatter than FB.

Download Ilford's Contrast Control document for information on how to dial-in the filtration for the color head that you get. Details are on page 3, giving you the dial-in settings needed for different contrast ranges. Most color heads will allow you to print anywhere between low-contrast (grade 00) and high-contrast (grade 5).
 

voceumana

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It is not necessary to use variable contrast paper--you can use standard graded paper if you prefer, regardless of the type of enlarger. If using graded, just dial all the colors to zero.
 

MattKing

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voceumana said:
you can use standard graded paper if you prefer
Click to expand...
Emphasis added by me.
Welcome to Photrio. Hope this place adds to your fun.
The post quoted reflects the experience of many of the older members here (myself included).
I think though that the "standard" is probably now variable contrast/multigrade, and fixed grade is much more infrequently found.
Whatever brand or description you are using, the papers that allow for wide adjustment of contrast are really quite wonderful.
And don't discount the capabilities of RC papers - they are different from fibre based papers, but you can make wonderful prints with them.
 

AgX

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To print on variable contrast paper one does not necessarily need a colour head or even a more practical variable contrast head (a kind of modified colour head), but a set of variable contrast filters is sufficient. You can put these either into a filter drawer above the lens (optically benefitial), if the enlarger has such, or mount a filter holder under the lens.
 

John51

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Sorrycharlie said:
Ahh I see, thank you very much for the reply. I’m a full on beginner so have no clue what I’m doing. Thanks!!
Click to expand...

It may seem confusing at first but how variable contrast works is quite logical.

The variable contrast is effected by the paper having 2 emulsions. One is sensitive to blue light and gives a high contrast. The other is sensitive to green light and gives a low contrast. Changing the ratio of blue to green light changes the contrast.

There are different ways to change that ratio. With the enlargers you are considering, it will be subtractive rather than additive. iow, it does not 'add' blue and green but 'subtracts' blue and green from the light source. The yellow filter subtracts blue and the cyan filter subtracts green. (The magenta filter subtracts red but as the paper doesn't see red, we can ignore it.)

More yellow = less blue = lower contrast. More cyan = less green = higher contrast.

How much yellow and cyan is needed has already been calculated for us. For the grade of contrast we require, all we have to do is to apply the settings from the 'cheat sheet' that applies to our enlarger.
 

MattKing

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John51 said:
he yellow filter subtracts blue and the cyan filter subtracts green. (The magenta filter subtracts red but as the paper doesn't see red, we can ignore it.)

More yellow = less blue = lower contrast. More cyan = less green = higher contrast.
Click to expand...
I think this might reflect a bit of a misunderstanding.
Yellow does subtract blue - that is correct.
But with respect to green, it isn't cyan (blue + green) that subtracts it. It is magenta (blue + red = purple) that subtracts it.
The cyan filter is the one that subtracts red.
So it is actually more magenta = less green = more contrast.
The cyan filters are only used regularly for the older, no longer available processes that allowed you to print positives from slides.
 

jvo

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welcome to photrio...

don't know where you are and down-under being very big, you may be surprised to find another member of photrio nearby - do a search. a day spent "translating" the written word to hands-on experience with someone makes a huge difference in understanding.

have fun.
 
OP
OP

Sorrycharlie

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Hey, thank JVO that would be great. I’m in the Illawarra area of NSW. Is it possible search photrio users by location?
 

RalphLambrecht

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Ilford Multigrade IV will work just fine;VC means variable contrast;RC means resin coated.Ilford Multicontrast is both VC and RC but it also comes in FBVC fiber-based variable contrast!
 

etn

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MattKing said:
And don't discount the capabilities of RC papers - they are different from fibre based papers, but you can make wonderful prints with them.
Click to expand...
+1 on this. The widely accepted view is that RC is for beginners and only FB prints are truly beautiful. Well, I disagree with this. I use both (Adox MCP312 and MCC112) and although the FB are indeed truly beautiful, I like the look of RC better. Matter of taste of course. These Adox papers are wonderful. Cherry on the cake, handling (mainly washing and drying) of RC paper is much easier.

Wish you lots of fun in the darkroom!
 

jvo

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geographic locatiing is a hit and miss affair on photrio... it depends on what someone enters for their location. one of the forums here is "geographic location", you could do a search for various terms there, or post a there asking for "local" members to respond. you could also check out each members profile.

i'd start with a global search in photrio and enter different places and see what hits you get and pursue those. it's definitely worth pursuing as only one of two "locals", (a relative term, i know, in your neck of the woods) can make a real difference. enjoy.

p.s. photrio is owned and run by one of your "neighbors" - sean ross, new zealand!
 
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