What makes an RB67 so special, anyway?

[Ariston]

Tough crowd.

 

[MattKing]

Strictly speaking, you may need to do this to use a 6x8 back in landscape orientation, if you want the corners.

 

[Deleted member 88956]

You mean hold it under my ass?

As I said, can't even think it, let alone mention ... publically.

 

[Vaughn]

Thankfully, like I use the Rollei sometimes, that goes way over my head.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Strictly speaking, you may need to do this to use a 6x8 back in landscape orientation, if you want the corners.

That's true. The back has to be in portrait mode, and camera tilted on its side for full lens coverage.

 

[M Carter]

I really prefer the 6x7 neg to the 6x6. If the final crop is horizontal from a square neg, you might as well bring a 645. If the final crop is square from a 6x7 neg, you're still using as much film areas as 6x6. But I seem to do a lot of masking lately, every millimeter of neg size seems to help. I guess that's why my 4x5 is getting much more of a workout lately...

If anyone is looking at RB systems - "what's so special" is a really robust camera with fantastic IQ, in my experience not a dog in the lens lineup, and the value for the IQ you're getting is simply off the chain these days. What's not so special to many is the size and weight. I shot catalogs handheld all day with the 180mm and L-grip back in the day, but everyone's different and a lot of us are facing bum knees, arthritis, bad backs, all the scourges time, so size/weight may be a big issue. Also, needing two motions to cock and wind the film turns some people off. It's a bit more of a methodical camera than a street-shooting machine, where a 6x7 rangefinder or a P67 may be better suited.

If you do go for it, skipping the original "pro" and getting a Pro-S or SD is highly advised. The newer models have many safety interlocks to avoid blank frames and double exposures. They all take the same lenses, but I don't think the original backs will function on the newer bodies, though Pro-S and SD backs are interchangeable. You can also use 120 film in 220 backs with no issues. Lenses are really affordable these days, especially the longer 250 and 360s, the 500's seem rare, and the fisheye is still a pricey piece of glass. In good hands, the system is capable of jaw-dropping work.

 

[eli griggs]

Strictly speaking, you may need to do this to use a 6x8 back in landscape orientation, if you want the corners.

If he has to buy another back, he might as well buy a 4x5 in. press camera, like a beater Speed Graphic with an original or barrel lens and use it as a perfect large negative for cropping.

I'm thinking the weight of the S.G. would be considerably less and for overhead shots, if your hold does wander a fraction of an inch/cm, you still are most likely to get the shot.

After all, what sort of price difference are we speaking of between the back and a user view camera?

Just think of all Jimmy Olsen did with the larger format.

IMO.

 

[peter k.]

Love my RB67.. for roll or 2x3 sheet film..
via Grafmatic "23" film holder.. shoots 6 shots.

 

[mark]

What is it about the RB? It’s a chick magnet.

 

[Ariston]

What is it about the RB? It’s a chick magnet.

Especially when I'm wearing my socks and sandals!

 

[mark]

Especially when I'm wearing my socks and sandals!

Over the top sexy there. How do you keep the women away?

 

[KenS]

I went on a shoot today and held the camera up sideways to get a vetical shot. How else am I supposed to get a vertical shot?

I'm an idiot.

The most 'attractive' feature of the RB is that it provides a 'RECTANGULAR'' rather than a 'square' negative. How of often do you 'print any negative as a 'square'?

Ken

 

[radiant]

When carrying on a neck strap you know every moment that you have camera with you!

 

[eli griggs]

When carrying on a neck strap you know every moment that you have camera with you!

I generally like to carry the 6x6cm SLR with a wrist trap, attached to both sides of the camera; that or a bag/pack.

I do have neck/shoulder straps on some cameras, but I learned long ago to shorten them so the camera, lens inside to my body, would place them above the elbow, so my arm became a protective cover, especially in crowds.

I've had cameras fall before, but never have I banged one up on a revolving door, a wall or a tripod, much less another person in crowds, and I always know the camera is just that much easier to put into action from a secure location.

The down side is, if I wear a heavy wool coat, the straps want to slide off my shoulder, leaving only the pressure of the arm, to pin it against my body.

I hate changing camera strap's positioning!

 

[Ariston]

I generally like to carry the 6x6cm SLR with a wrist trap, attached to both sides of the camera; that or a bag/pack.

I do have neck/shoulder straps on some cameras, but I learned long ago to shorten them so the camera, lens inside to my body, would place them above the elbow, so my arm became a protective cover, especially in crowds.

I've had cameras fall before, but never have I banged one up on a revolving door, a wall or a tripod, much less another person in crowds, and I always know the camera is just that much easier to put into action from a secure location.

The down side is, if I wear a heavy wool coat, the straps want to slide off my shoulder, leaving only the pressure of the arm, to pin it against my body.

I hate changing camera strap's positioning!

I usually "wear" my RB67 in the back seat of the car until I am ready to use it. It is not my hiking/walkaround camera.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I've had mine since '92. Built like a tank. Excellent optics.

 

[eli griggs]

I usually "wear" my RB67 in the back seat of the car until I am ready to use it. It is not my hiking/walkaround camera.

Yes, I also generally carry my kit in the van or car, out of the way, but I still keep a F1N or Ql17 ready for ad hoc shoots while riding with my wife, or on the front passenger seat /between seats, which ever vehicle I'm in, alone or with her.

I am generally one of those 'shopping cart' photographers that will take anything that may need, needing, where when I was much younger, a roll of spare film or two, a camera with a 50mm and polarize and sky-uv, was just fine, but as I grew older and became use to assisting photographers with assignments, I put together some of their travel kits for week long trips out of time, and I did a pretty good job, seeing what would or could be needed. That simply carried over to my own photography, and for years, I carried heavy bags or packs, without trouble.

Now I've scoliosis, with a spiral spine, and am more circumspect about just how far I will carry a full kit, which is relatively easier since I no longer do wildlife shots, in back woods or hard to reach areas.

I'm getting into more street shooting and while I do carry a large bag, mono or tripod, I pull out what is no needed and do the best I'm able.

For urban shooting, with a full kit, I like keeping the gear in the van, behind the passenger seat, as my wife usually drives that, so I can bail quickly, grab up what I need and she can park the car, or make a circet around the roads, to pull up next to me to see if I need more equipment or time.

She's also assisting a bit, and I think she enjoys it, too.

Too much information, but there it is. ;-)
Cheers