What is your opinion on Bronica SQ-A?

[MFstooges]

I ventured to 6X6 in the past with Yashica Mat and ended up not liking it since the waist level finder is useless in a bright sunlight but recently my 6X7 had some intermittent issues that I started to think about getting a reliable 6X6. I always like the look of Bronica S2a and promising optics from Nikon but I heard that it is mechanically complicated and nobody can fix it if it goes wrong so I am looking at Bronica SQ-A since it can be equipped with eye level VF which has metering (?) and auto aperture feature which I like. But the cons is that it seems to be heavier and a tad bigger than a TLR and the optics is not on the level of Nikon so I am also looking at Rolleicord but man I love to have light meter on a camera.

 

[koraks]

I've got an SQAi. I doubt if it breaks anyone will be able to fix it, let alone economically. In that sense, all these complicated electromechanical cameras are in the same corner. However, it's been a reliable camera so far and the optics are great, at least on the meager selection of two lenses I have. I use it with the WLF and a hand-held meter. I must have had an eye-level finder with integrated meter at some point, but I think I peddled it off at some point because I never used it.

 

[250swb]

My SQA isn't used anymore but not because it's a bad camera. Lenses are top quality, never had one go wrong, and as a system camera it offers everything you could want, the only question is do you want to lug around a 'system camera'. Even keeping to one lens and one back it's weighty compared with a Rolleiflex or Minolta Autocord and if it's a standard lens view you want you won't see any appreciable difference in image quality but of course the SQA would win for close up's etc. I don't know why you'd be looking at a Rolleicord if you found the Yashica bad in sunlight, it's the same problem although a newer screen can help in both cases.

 

[brian steinberger]

I used to have an SQ-A. Great camera, especially with the speed grip. I moved on to a Hasselblad system mainly because of being easier to repair and the slightly better lenses. I don’t regret the move at all. However if portability is your main concern I’d recommend the Mamiya 6 or an older folder.

 

[Rick A]

I schlepped around a Bronica Sq-AM and an Sq-A for several years, wonderful cameras. I had the Sq-A for years after the M died. At one time I considered adding a Sq-B to my kit, but my metered finders were very accurate so I didn't need my hand held meter, metered finders don't work on the B. I started seriously down sizing a couple of years ago and let my Bronicas go (huge mistake- I miss the kit). Be aware, the backs (some times)have an interface pin issue, it's a weak spot. I recommend you read the manual (Butkus) and try to understand the quirks. I think you'll love the camera.
Addendum: When buying make sure the backs have the dark slide with them, there's no place on the camera to store it when using (unlike an RB-67) so they get lost, and you absolutely NEED one to load and unload film.

 

[OAPOli]

Personally, I find those camera types awkward to operate at eye-level with a prism.

The Yashica has a plain glass screen? You could also try a modern plastic screen which are evenly illuminated.

 

[Alex Benjamin]

Had one a while back and loved it. But I sold if for pretty much the same reason I'm thinking of selling my (also loved) RB 67 set-up. Both systems are great when used on a tripod, but, IMHO, just not practical — just too heavy and cumbersome — for everyday walking around photography, be that just in the neighborhood or traveling.

Finding the perfect, light 6x6 camera with interchangeable lenses isn't easy. I didn't like the Mamiya C series and both the Mamiya 6 and the Hasselblad are out of my price range.

 

[chuckroast]

I ventured to 6X6 in the past with Yashica Mat and ended up not liking it since the waist level finder is useless in a bright sunlight but recently my 6X7 had some intermittent issues that I started to think about getting a reliable 6X6. I always like the look of Bronica S2a and promising optics from Nikon but I heard that it is mechanically complicated and nobody can fix it if it goes wrong so I am looking at Bronica SQ-A since it can be equipped with eye level VF which has metering (?) and auto aperture feature which I like. But the cons is that it seems to be heavier and a tad bigger than a TLR and the optics is not on the level of Nikon so I am also looking at Rolleicord but man I love to have light meter on a camera.

They are great cameras, but as others have noted, good luck getting things fixed.

These days, with limited repair personnel and parts, I'd stick with a Mamiya 645 (cheap enough to throw out and replace if it dies) or a Hasselblad for which accessories and repair access seems to be still quite good.

A close second would be the Mamiya 7 - but again, repair and parts might be an issue.

If you don't need interchangeable lenses, the Fuji GW690II is fairly amazing and I know at least one or two people that still service them. Almost nothing goes wrong with them other than one of the film advance gears, for which there are now 3rd party replacements. The shutters are pretty much bulletproof and they have no electronics on board.

Finally, in the odd-but-interesting-alternatives, there is the 2x3 Century Graphic. They take rollfilm holders (and thus can shoot 6x6, 6x7, or 6x9) as well as a ground glass back for sheet film. Lenses and lensboards exist in abundance (someone on etsy is selling new boards for various shutter diameters). I have owned several versions of this family of cameras and they are absolutely
top notch, if a bit different to handle. They are appealing because you can stuff top tier optics on them like Kodak Ektars and Schneiders.

 

[wiltw]

Originally GMI Photgraphic distributed and repaired Bronica ETR/SQ/GS equipment in US. Then Tamron purchased the Bronical line, but then closed down the whole operation as unprofitable, sadly. The gear tends to be quite reliable in general, and like all brands has a classic area of weakness which needs a bit more attention than other parts tend to. My only hesitation now is regarding the mechanical linkages internal to the body, that might get out of adjustment...there the expertise is needed for proper adjustment, and that is not easily found decades after the line was shut down. Timing circuitry is all electronic, so issues generally end up in the shutter and every lens has its own shutter...if it breaks, get a different lens.

 

[applguy]

Hello MFstooges- I'm a LONG Time user of a Rolleiflex T and a Yashicamat LM. I understand that the Yashicamat waist level finder can be useless, but honestly I think you should think about getting a 'Rick-Oleson-Bright-Screen (https://rickoleson-brightscreen.com/). I used both TLR's for years with the stock ground glass, and once I got a Bright Screen, it was NIGHT/DAY difference.
I recently sent my Yashicamat LM (1959 model) to Mark Hama in Georgia (markhama@comcast.net) for a CLA and he installed the Bright Screen during the camera's overhaul. My Rolleiflex T has removable ground glass- so I installed the Bright Screen myself.
I'm not saying the Bronica SQ-A is a bad camera, I just like the lightweight TLR's for portability and no battery usage.

 

[reddesert]

Most medium format system cameras like Mamiya and Bronica (excepting Hasselblad or Rollei 6xxx AF) are in the regime of: the individual parts are relatively inexpensive compared to what they used to run for, so if (for example) one piece of your kit fails, like a lens or body, you can get another one in working condition and move on. The Bronica SQ seems to be pretty reliable, though it helps to understand how the body to back interface pins work. If you can't live with waist level finders, then any of the prism capable cameras like Bronica ETR or SQ or Mamiya 645 will address that. All of them will be somewhat heavier and louder than a TLR. I don't think in normal pictorial use one would really see a difference between various lines of modern MF lenses, especially if you're stopping down to gain depth of field.

 

[blee1996]

I hear you have issues with Yashica Mat's WLF in bright daylight. Lots of modern WLF (Mamiya, Hasselblad) has flip up magnifier that blocks all stray light, so you are as if looking through a loupe to a light table.

The best WLF experience I had was Mamiya C330S, RB67, RZ67. The focus screen is nice and bright, easy to focus, and have total shielding of stray light if you pop up the magnifying panel.

I have used Bronica SQ-A in the past: they are totally fine and not that heavy if you just have body, back, WLF and 80mm lens. The AE finder and grip will add more weight, but then you gain better ergonomics as well. I don't think they are that expensive (I sold my complete kit under $500), thus I won't worry too much about they fail after a while.

 

[chuckroast]

I don't think in normal pictorial use one would really see a difference between various lines of modern MF lenses, especially if you're stopping down to gain depth of field.

All other things being equal, it depends on how much magnification the image is undergoing. At web/monitor resolutions, you're pretty much right. But start punching out 11x14 or 16x20 prints and the flaws in the optics start to show up, at least for some cases.

My 'Blad lenses just blow away Yashica TLR, Mamiya TLR, and Mamiya 645 at larger magnifications.

OTOH, the Mamiya 7 is a close competitor at 16x20 at least, arguably because of the increased format size - but those lenses really are something to behold. Similarly, the Fuji GW690II I have here punches well above its weight, again probably because of the big negatives.

I was also shocked to discover just how well the Fuji GA-645Zi negatives compared to comparably sized prints from the 'Blad - bearing in mind that a Hassy negative is approximately going to be 645 if you want rectangular prints.

But it's also not just about resolving power and contrast. The Hassy lenses are magnificent but have a kind of clinical quality to them that does not always serve the subject well. By comparison, my old 50mm Collapsible Summicron on a Leica body has a "look" that is unmatched, notwithstanding the fact that neither the format nor the lens itself are remotely in the same league as the Hassy. I cannot exactly explain this, but that old 1955 Summi has a kind of "depth" to the look that I cannot quite explain.

Similarly, my uncoated 1945 50mm f/3.5 Elmar has a kind of flare behavior that's haunting and beautiful.

I've seen many other examples - an old Commercial Ektar vs. a modern Schneider on a 4x5 leaps to mind.

All that said ... I still own a Yashica-MAT 124G and Mamiya Universal because - optical limits aside - they make really nice pix.

It takes many brushes to paint great pictures.

 

[abruzzi]

I bought a SQ-A and a few lenses for a trip I did recently. I already had, and preferred, a ETRSi and GS-1, but both are landscape rectangles. I use both with waistlevel finders, and when I'm on my own the occasional challenge shooting portrait with a WLF doesn't bother me. But I was traveling with two other people that would probably get frustrated if I stopped to take a portrait oriented image (not an actual portrait.) Given my satisfaction with the other models, I figured the easiest solution was square. The odd thing is ETRSi and GS-1 bodies and lenses were much cheaper than SQ/PS stuff. I assume ETRSi stuff is super common driving down the proce, but the lower cost of GS-1 gear really surprised me. (Not sure if its still the care.) So I ended up with the SQ-A a couple backs and 3 PS lenses and one S lens which was fine for the usage. Compared to some other brands, price on these is low enough to replace instead of repair, which is unfortunate, but all three of mine have been perfectly reliable.

 

[jimjm]

I've been shooting with an SQ-A body for about 20 years now and have never had a problem with it. The benefit for me is it's a really versatile system with the quality of medium format, but not too pricey. Quality of the lenses is good, nothing to complain about although my Bronica RF645 lenses are sharper. I use the RF645 more for hiking and street shooting. I just bought a second SQ-A body since I'm invested in the system. The size / weight is typical of a 6x6 SLR camera. Definitely handholdable in good light and reasonably fast film. The SpeedGrip helps a lot. I've got four 120 backs and never had a light leak or problem with any of them.
I have an AE Prism finder S with built-in meter, but have never really used it much. Adds some weight and bulk to the camera so I prefer to use a handheld meter in most situations. My favorite finders are the waist-level and the 45-degree prism finder. The eye-level prisms (including the AE finder) are kind of awkward to hold up to your face. The 45-degree prism is very comfortable to use.
One concern is that most of the lenses do not have a very close minimum focus. It's hard to get a tight head & shoulders portrait unless you have the 110/4 or 180/4.5 lenses, which can focus closer.
These were popular with wedding and portrait photographers back in the day, so you'll find some that are heavily used. Try to test any bodies/lenses before you buy, or at least get a return warranty.

 

[MFstooges]

My SQA isn't used anymore but not because it's a bad camera. Lenses are top quality, never had one go wrong, and as a system camera it offers everything you could want, the only question is do you want to lug around a 'system camera'. Even keeping to one lens and one back it's weighty compared with a Rolleiflex or Minolta Autocord and if it's a standard lens view you want you won't see any appreciable difference in image quality but of course the SQA would win for close up's etc. I don't know why you'd be looking at a Rolleicord if you found the Yashica bad in sunlight, it's the same problem although a newer screen can help in both cases.

Now I remember other things that I didn't like about the Yashica, mine was Yashica Mat and it has a certain sequence for self timer and cocking that you don't want to mess up and you will mess up because the only fool proof method is to remember it. Also the lens easily flares.

They are great cameras, but as others have noted, good luck getting things fixed.

These days, with limited repair personnel and parts, I'd stick with a Mamiya 645 (cheap enough to throw out and replace if it dies) or a Hasselblad for which accessories and repair access seems to be still quite good.

A close second would be the Mamiya 7 - but again, repair and parts might be an issue.

If you don't need interchangeable lenses, the Fuji GW690II is fairly amazing and I know at least one or two people that still service them. Almost nothing goes wrong with them other than one of the film advance gears, for which there are now 3rd party replacements. The shutters are pretty much bulletproof and they have no electronics on board.

Finally, in the odd-but-interesting-alternatives, there is the 2x3 Century Graphic. They take rollfilm holders (and thus can shoot 6x6, 6x7, or 6x9) as well as a ground glass back for sheet film. Lenses and lensboards exist in abundance (someone on etsy is selling new boards for various shutter diameters). I have owned several versions of this family of cameras and they are absolutely
top notch, if a bit different to handle. They are appealing because you can stuff top tier optics on them like Kodak Ektars and Schneiders.

I had Mamiya 7 one time. I sold it for cheap and is one of my big regrets cause I really love how sharp the lenses are and now I cannot afford it. Was also looking at Texas Leica but it seems to have problem with film flatness. I am also not sure what to do if it reaches high frame count.

Hello MFstooges- I'm a LONG Time user of a Rolleiflex T and a Yashicamat LM. I understand that the Yashicamat waist level finder can be useless, but honestly I think you should think about getting a 'Rick-Oleson-Bright-Screen (https://rickoleson-brightscreen.com/). I used both TLR's for years with the stock ground glass, and once I got a Bright Screen, it was NIGHT/DAY difference.
I recently sent my Yashicamat LM (1959 model) to Mark Hama in Georgia (markhama@comcast.net) for a CLA and he installed the Bright Screen during the camera's overhaul. My Rolleiflex T has removable ground glass- so I installed the Bright Screen myself.
I'm not saying the Bronica SQ-A is a bad camera, I just like the lightweight TLR's for portability and no battery usage.

I have heard Mark's name when I had my Yashicamat, he's like Sover for F2. The weight of a TLR is what interests me but most don't have light meter.

I hear you have issues with Yashica Mat's WLF in bright daylight. Lots of modern WLF (Mamiya, Hasselblad) has flip up magnifier that blocks all stray light, so you are as if looking through a loupe to a light table.

The best WLF experience I had was Mamiya C330S, RB67, RZ67. The focus screen is nice and bright, easy to focus, and have total shielding of stray light if you pop up the magnifying panel.

I have used Bronica SQ-A in the past: they are totally fine and not that heavy if you just have body, back, WLF and 80mm lens. The AE finder and grip will add more weight, but then you gain better ergonomics as well. I don't think they are that expensive (I sold my complete kit under $500), thus I won't worry too much about they fail after a while.

I know how good the quality of C330 but for some reason it seems too huge and heavy.

I've been shooting with an SQ-A body for about 20 years now and have never had a problem with it. The benefit for me is it's a really versatile system with the quality of medium format, but not too pricey. Quality of the lenses is good, nothing to complain about although my Bronica RF645 lenses are sharper. I use the RF645 more for hiking and street shooting. I just bought a second SQ-A body since I'm invested in the system. The size / weight is typical of a 6x6 SLR camera. Definitely handholdable in good light and reasonably fast film. The SpeedGrip helps a lot. I've got four 120 backs and never had a light leak or problem with any of them.
I have an AE Prism finder S with built-in meter, but have never really used it much. Adds some weight and bulk to the camera so I prefer to use a handheld meter in most situations. My favorite finders are the waist-level and the 45-degree prism finder. The eye-level prisms (including the AE finder) are kind of awkward to hold up to your face. The 45-degree prism is very comfortable to use.
One concern is that most of the lenses do not have a very close minimum focus. It's hard to get a tight head & shoulders portrait unless you have the 110/4 or 180/4.5 lenses, which can focus closer.
These were popular with wedding and portrait photographers back in the day, so you'll find some that are heavily used. Try to test any bodies/lenses before you buy, or at least get a return warranty.

Do you remember what is the weight of SQ-A with main setup or with eye lefel VF + grip?

 

[mshchem]

SQ-Ai, w/ motor grip, I always preferred waist level finder, but the last version AE prism is amazing aperture priority auto exposure, ttl flash, spot or average metering, terrific glass. I sold all my Bronica stuff and went with Hasselblad years ago. I never had any problems with my Bronica gear.

 

[wiltw]

While still doing wedding coverage, I attended a WPA conference in another state. Had lunch with a pro who came from Florida.
Talking about gear used for coverage, he stated that in his part of FL, most of the smart pros shot with Bronica...

• customers could not tell the difference in photo quality, and
• it kept more of their capital in their pockets rather than tying it up for years as a business 'asset'.

 

[wiltw]

A Bronica with Speed Grip and prism finder is quite simllar to the handling and speed with which one can shoot with 135 format manually wound SLR...with the use of multiiple film magazines, it can be faster...no rewind time and threading the new roll!

 

[jimjm]

Now I remember other things that I didn't like about the Yashica, mine was Yashica Mat and it has a certain sequence for self timer and cocking that you don't want to mess up and you will mess up because the only fool proof method is to remember it. Also the lens easily flares.


I had Mamiya 7 one time. I sold it for cheap and is one of my big regrets cause I really love how sharp the lenses are and now I cannot afford it. Was also looking at Texas Leica but it seems to have problem with film flatness. I am also not sure what to do if it reaches high frame count.


I have heard Mark's name when I had my Yashicamat, he's like Sover for F2. The weight of a TLR is what interests me but most don't have light meter.


I know how good the quality of C330 but for some reason it seems too huge and heavy.


Do you remember what is the weight of SQ-A with main setup or with eye lefel VF + grip?

The SQ-A body with the standard 120 back, waist-level finder and 80mm lens weighs about 1500 grams. Swap the WL finder for a standard prism finder adds about 200 grams. Swap the WL finder for the AE Prism finder adds 265 grams. The Speed Grip alone weighs about 350 grams, but makes the camera much easier to hold.

 

[brian steinberger]

A Bronica with Speed Grip and prism finder is quite simllar to the handling and speed with which one can shoot with 135 format manually wound SLR...with the use of multiiple film magazines, it can be faster...no rewind time and threading the new roll!

Agree. I wish Hasselblad had a similar grip.

 

[chuckroast]

I had Mamiya 7 one time. I sold it for cheap and is one of my big regrets cause I really love how sharp the lenses are and now I cannot afford it. Was also looking at Texas Leica but it seems to have problem with film flatness. I am also not sure what to do if it reaches high frame count.

I have not noted film flatness issues with mine. CameraWiz still maintains these should they need it, but the shutters almost never need attention. Sometimes, the film advance mechanism wears out due to gear wear, but CameraWiz has after market replacements and can fix that during a normal CLA. He (Frank Marshman) apparently has done a fair number of CLAs on these cameras for the local schools. Note that he's semi-retired so cycle time isn't going to be instant.

 

[MFstooges]

The SQ-A body with the standard 120 back, waist-level finder and 80mm lens weighs about 1500 grams. Swap the WL finder for a standard prism finder adds about 200 grams. Swap the WL finder for the AE Prism finder adds 265 grams. The Speed Grip alone weighs about 350 grams, but makes the camera much easier to hold.

Thank you

 

[Sixbysixjan]

I started buying Bronica equipment about 7 or 8 years ago, when it was still (somewhat) afforable. I currently own 2 SQ-A and 2 SQ-Ai bodies and a selection of lenses (plus some ETRsi-based 645 equipment). The only issue I had (and still have) is a S-series 200mm f4.5 with "sticky" diaphragm blades (stopping it down to F16 - F32 is a roll of the dice that it will open back to F4.5 again after pressing the shutter release). One of the SQ-A bodies I I have was owned a pro wedding photographer... It was used VERY heavily (and cosmetically show it too) but still works flawlessly.

Personally I think that if a SQ or ETR body breaks down, it is likely cheaper to just buy another (assuming that prices don't continue to go up).

EDIT:
Oops, I just recalled that a 6X6 film back broke down as well - the annoying issue where the "light trap" in which the dark slide slots in failed. I fixed it by using parts from a SQA 120 35mm film back - I have cursed mysef many times for doing that, I should simply have bought another 6X6 back (albeit that is also a roll of the dice in regards to light leaks).

 

[MFstooges]

I started buying Bronica equipment about 7 or 8 years ago, when it was still (somewhat) afforable. I currently own 2 SQ-A and 2 SQ-Ai bodies and a selection of lenses (plus some ETRsi-based 645 equipment). The only issue I had (and still have) is a S-series 200mm f4.5 with "sticky" diaphragm blades (stopping it down to F16 - F32 is a roll of the dice that it will open back to F4.5 again after pressing the shutter release). One of the SQ-A bodies I I have was owned a pro wedding photographer... It was used VERY heavily (and cosmetically show it too) but still works flawlessly.

Personally I think that if a SQ or ETR body breaks down, it is likely cheaper to just buy another (assuming that prices don't continue to go up).

EDIT:
Oops, I just recalled that a 6X6 film back broke down as well - the annoying issue where the "light trap" in which the dark slide slots in failed. I fixed it by using parts from a SQA 120 35mm film back - I have cursed mysef many times for doing that, I should simply have bought another 6X6 back (albeit that is also a roll of the dice in regards to light leaks).

What's the main difference between SQ-A and SQ-Ai? Is one of them more electronically dependent therefore less possible to repair? How different is the SQ-A/Ai mirror mechanism compared to the notoriously complex S2/S2A?