- Joined
- May 23, 2013
- Messages
- 181
- Format
- 35mm
Is it possible to add a photo of the negative? It could be that the roll is not running horizontally, but tilted a bit. Are the frames perfectly horizontal on the film stripes? If not, the automatic lab printing will not align to your frames and you will get the blank margins of the film in your prints.
The spacing should be normal. Not insanely accurately consistent, but pretty much among your frames. When winding on the next frame, do not do it smoothly and not quickly. It can be repaired, but it is not worth the cost and one can live with that as long as there is no overlapping.
Bull. A positive scan is exactly what a negative is, only it's the opposite. It will show you just what is wrong w/ the camera as easily as a negative will, assuming one knows what to look for. Where did that science come from?
Since the issue is showing at the top, and the Kiev has a very complicated vertical running shutter, then the problem is probably some sort of shutter bounce, which is happening only now and then. They either have the shutter speed running too high, or there's another issue that is preventing the shutter from reliably coming up and down all the way. The frame spacing I have no idea on, but Dr google will probably point you in the right direction. When FSU cameras malfunction, their problems tend to be very well documented.
Back to Walter's, and bring them a print or a neg.
Is it possible to add a photo of the negative? It could be that the roll is not running horizontally, but tilted a bit. Are the frames perfectly horizontal on the film stripes? If not, the automatic lab printing will not align to your frames and you will get the blank margins of the film in your prints.
The spacing should be normal. Not insanely accurately consistent, but pretty much among your frames. When winding on the next frame, do not do it smoothly and not quickly. It can be repaired, but it is not worth the cost and one can live with that as long as there is no overlapping.
You are winding the knob until it stops? And are careful to ensure that the sprocket-holes are engaged on both sides before closing the back?
Is it possible to add a photo of the negative? It could be that the roll is not running horizontally, but tilted a bit. Are the frames perfectly horizontal on the film stripes? If not, the automatic lab printing will not align to your frames and you will get the blank margins of the film in your prints.
The spacing should be normal. Not insanely accurately consistent, but pretty much among your frames. When winding on the next frame, do not do it smoothly and not quickly. It can be repaired, but it is not worth the cost and one can live with that as long as there is no overlapping.
Serviced they should be ok.
The kit Helious 103 is a real good performer on colour film with a lens hood.
Yes, it is and that's why i want to keep it. It's sharp and detailed, yet surprisingly low contrast. That's a character that i don't get with any other lens that i have.
Here are a few cell phone photos of the negatives ontop of a light box. Please look at the top right of each frame something is off. What do i tell the repair man?
The image area leaks into the sprockets on the bottom side, and leaves an unexposed strip at the top.
From the other comments in the thread, I'm guessing that this might not be unusual with this model.
The solution may be to learn to crop everything, and avoid mounted slides.
Include the negative strips with camera.
The first blind may be stalling.
Remove back select B and depress the release the first blind should complete. Don't forget your negtive image is upside down and left to right.
Don't touch the slats of the blind they are rugged but don't touch...
It's tough for me to see if the blinds are not moving at the same rate or uniformly. Looks like they are but the repair man will take a look tomorrow.
Thanks for everyone help.
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