What you describe is called a sensitometer as has been pointed out. There are several threads regarding them.
A couple I enjoyed...
Enlarger ----> Sensitometer
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
The Great Sensitometer Shootout
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
Flash as Sensitometer
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
So you could make one yourself.
Keep in mind, as a hobbyist or even a professional photographer you may not require a precise, calibrated light source. My EG&G sensitometer can not be considered calibrated, but I find in practice that it gives me very consistent results. I have tried to estimate of the amount of light it produces at its 1/100 second setting (in meter candle seconds). But have concluded that without actual calibration, I have to be satisfied knowing only within plus or minus 1/6 stop how much light I am getting. That is close enough for me.
As you develop occasional test strips and measure the contrast, one of the strips might be special because it might happen to have density measurements that meet ASA/ISO requirements. ASA requirements are very specific but just to give you an idea, such a negative will have a contrast of approximately 0.62 gamma or contrast index (I call it "hitting the ASA triangle).
My best estimates for myself (of the amount of light put out by the sensitometer) come from that special negative, where its curve crosses 0.10 over base plus fog. That point relates by virtue of ASA/ISO film speed, to the meter candle seconds that hit the film.
Film manufacturers have to know exactly how much light is hitting the film because they might have to prove the film meets the specifications or Quality Assurance may send it back for being out of spec. But if you got film the usual way for an advanced amateur or professional... since the manufacturer sent it out... you can trust that an ISO 400 film will be 400. The manufacturer can't work backwards this way to figure out the light. They have to calibrate the sensitometer machine. As a consumer, you can work backwards... And as I said, it may give you an estimate that is within plus or minus 1/6 stop, but that is pretty good for an estimate.