I've been hired as a lighting specialist on a few 'big fashion' shoots and most of the time they are very regulated, very similar to what I'm used to on set: various crew including wardrobe, make-up, catering, electrical, etc; From what I saw each photographer had a differant approach, some were very regulated and gave very clear directions in terms of blocking/posture to the talent and others 'just let them do their thing.' Me thinks, to answer your first question, that the aforementioned approach is best; after all you, the photographer, are akin to a translastor who's job it is to make an non-concrete concept work within the visual language. It's like your a director and DP rolled in to one.