What is best frame size for 8x10 prints?

[Dan Pelland]

I make hardwood contact printing frames. I'm getting great response from customers, but I only have my own experience to draw on for the designs. I've talked with Michael A. Smith who gave me some very helpful suggestions, including that I allow some extra glass around the paper/negative. I'd really like to hear your opinions on the "extra space" issue. I guess the question is "What's the best frame size for 8x10 prints?" thanks - DP

PS - Sorry for the confusion. I didn't make it clear that I'm talking about contact printing frames - but I do find the comments on "print frames" helpful too. Thanks!

 

[Bob Carnie]

Hi Dan

for a starting point

for an 8x10 print I would start with 3inch side 3 inch side 3inch top and 4inch bottom if the print is vertical. there-fore the frame would be
14inches x 17inches, optical center. I

 

[Donald Miller]

I make hardwood print frames. I'm getting great response from customers, but I only have my own experience to draw on for the designs. I've talked with Michael A. Smith who gave me some very helpful suggestions, including that I allow some extra glass around the paper/negative. I'd really like to hear your opinions on the "extra space" issue. I guess the question is "What's the best frame size for 8x10 prints?" thanks - DP

I would opt for a 13X16 inch frame. This allows one to cut six sets of mounts and overmats from a 32X40 inch sheet of board with only 1X32 inch of waste. Since an 8X10 print will typically render 7 1/2 X 9 1/2 it would allow 2 3/4 inch as a top and side margin and 3 3/4 inch bottom margin. Typically a print will look much better with a larger bottom margin, especially when one considers a larger window opening at the bottom for the photographers signature.

 

[Ole]

In my opinion an 8x10" frame is a little too small to print 8x10" film, while it is a little too big for 5x7" films. I would like to have about an inch of space all around to leave room for jagged edges if I want them, and a signature below the image area. So 10x12" would be just about perfect, and a 7x9" for the 5x7" prints.

 

[Joe Symchyshyn]

I would suggest making it a touch bigger than the next biggest size of conventionally available paper. Not everyone contacting is using alternative processing so out of the box paper should be considered.

So in the 8x10 example, I'd make it so you could use 11x14 paper in the frame.

joe

 

[Daniel Grenier]

Personnaly, I would like to have one that tightly fits an 8x10 film/paper full 8x10 coverage and no cut off. I have a frame that's 7 1/2 x 9 3/4 (more or less) and it sits unused due to the cut off. I also have one that's 9x11 and it is fine except for the fiddling around to ensure perfect film/paper registration.

 

[hortense]

I mount all my 8 x 10 prints on 14 x 16 mat board.

 

[Ole]

I would suggest making it a touch bigger than the next biggest size of conventionally available paper. Not everyone contacting is using alternative processing so out of the box paper should be considered.

So in the 8x10 example, I'd make it so you could use 11x14 paper in the frame.

joe

Or for us Europeans, 9 1/2 x 12" or 24x30cm.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I don't have great experience with contact printing, but to me it seems important to leave some room on all sides of the paper/negative. I would be worried about straylight being reflected back into the image from the glass edges.
I would like to estimate perhaps 2" as an edge around the actual 8x10 print, which would enable using 11x14 paper if that is desired.

- Thom

 

[Rob Skeoch]

I use a 8x10 frame for my 8x10 negs. The frame design leaves a white boarder around the print. I find it hard to line this up properly so the white boarder comes out even. I've since switch back to just using a piece of glass and wish I'd purchased a 11x14 contract printer instead of the 8x10 version.
-Rob

 

[Daniel Grenier]

I mount all my 8 x 10 prints on 14 x 16 mat board.

Ditto 14x16 here. I just like the ratio and looks and feels right to me.

 

[doughowk]

Contact Printing Frame

My current frame, from Photo Formulary, has interior dimensions of 9X11 & front opening of 8.5X10.5. I'd prefer something more snug so that I could lay both the paper & negative in place without adjusting one to the other. This would be especially nice if I ever produce large numbers of prints from same negative.

 

[removed account4]

i don't know about you, but i have matted and framed a bunch of 8x10s (some even smaller) in 16x20 mats and frames. matts usually are 4ply but some are 8ply and they look really nice. its not for every print though, some look better not floating in a sea of snow white matt board. i asked the gallery that was displaying them if they would go smaller they looked at me, smiled and said: " they are perfect "

 

[mark]

I would rather use one size up. It allows me to use a larger piece of paper than the neg I have have the otion to print a bigger neg in the future. My 8x10 frame is 9x11 and I print 5x7.

 

[User Removed]

I find it funny how people are really talking about TWO totally different things here. Half the people are talking about what size they mount, mat and frame there finished 8x10 prints, and the other half of the people are talking about what size CONTACT PRINTING FRAME is right for 8x10 negatives.

Just to reply to both topics- I like an 8x10 CONTACT PRINTING frame for 8x10 negatives, because then you dont have to deal with the negative moving or anything like that. You just slap the negative and paper into the frame, close it up and expose. There is not worry about if the negative drifted away from the paper.

About what size to MOUNT, OVER-MAT, and FRAME your 8x10 photographs, I prefer 14x17.

Ryan McIntosh
www.RyanMcIntosh.net