It sounds like you need a contrastier negative for contact printing on the paper you are using. In general, you can extend your development times. For this negative you can intensify it. I like to intensify in Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner, 1+3 for about 8 minutes to get about a one zone increase in contrast. For more, you might look into other kinds of intensifiers or bleach and redevelop methods.
That said, when I'm printing on VC paper, I usually expose for the white and adjust the contrast for the black. You might try that and see if that gives you a result that you like better. It might not give you maximum black for the paper, but maybe in this image the highlights are more important, and you'll have enough black that you'll be satisfied.
If you can, you might consider bracketing shots like this. I might, especially with 4x5, shoot 3 film holders with the same exposure on each side. Develop one of each for a normal amount of time, then try developing the next one a little longer. I don't do quite so many shots now as I used to but still do at times with tricky exposures.
When in low contrast situations it might be a good idea to shoot the film as if it were just a little faster than stated, then develop longer than you normally would. This would increase the contrast. However what I see in the image is more or less what I would expect to see in real life. Of course this may not be what you are looking for in the final print. But you will have to do some leg work to get the print results you want from your exposures.
Another idea is to use a yellow filter. This reduces some of the blue light which is quite prevalent on days like this. And nothing will help more than having good and consistent darkroom practice. (Such as patience)
Best of luck,
And nothing will help more than having good and consistent darkroom practice. (Such as patience)
hi pellicle
have you tried split filter printing?
It sounds like you need a contrastier negative for contact printing on the paper you are using.
{two sheets in holder both exposed develop one}
This is also good practice because sheet film is more damage, dust, light leak, and user error prone than roll film, so if something happens to the first one, you have one more shot at it.
As someone already wrote, forget the rules. Just look at the negatives and prints. The only requirement is that you FULLY understand the exposure/development relationship.
... I was surprised to find that even that didn't have the densest area being as dense as the element of a light bulb I photographed and developed normally. I'm sure that there is some substantial difference between the snow and the filament brightness. ... I wish I could compare numbers with people as I find that easier to reconcile with.
... I developed sheets in 3min 6 min and 12 min (where N = 6 min for the temperature I was using) ...
I'm not sure I'd use the image of a light bulb filament as an absolute standard for evaluating negatives. I presume you processed that too.
Similarly, I'm not sure a snowy scene is the best for getting the hang of a "normal" developing time, etc. A scene composed of really dark and really bright elements and probably a rather extreme contrast may lead you astray. A set up with a full range of mid tones as well as a modest representation at the extremes would be the easiest starter.
Great start - the idea of geometic jumps in developing times as a test series is exactly the way to do it
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