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What has been your preferred Economical Paper?

Oriental RC Glossy. Takes twice as long in the developer as Ilford ( anyone notice that?).
Couple bucks cheaper than Ilford, and, wonder why I still use it- every 25-count pack I've gotten in the past 6 months has on average 2 sheets that turn light brown, or blotchy. Guys I work with can't figure it out either.
The name "Oriental" seems abit odd as well - in this day & age....?
 
kb244,

I didn't know that, but the remark (from the website you've pointed to:
"Anyone who has gazed at Ansel Adam's original print of "Moonrise, Hernandez" is looking at Oriental New Seagull paper, distributed by International Supplies. Adams' 16x20-inch dodge/burn schematic for that negative is frequently displayed at gallery exhibitions. A handwritten margin note specifies, "Use New Seagull #3."
... confirms my previous remark that "I find Oriental a serious paper, not a cheap option, old style paper."

Glad to know that,

Cheers,

Renato
 
Oriental sounds outdated and awkward when used to describe people or foods in America today, but as a brand name I've never thought twice about it. For those too young to remember just about anything east Asian used to be called Oriental.
 
These folks seem to be keen about "Oriental" as a brand name: http://www.mandarinoriental.com/
Personally, I really like their RC paper. I use it fairly frequently for 11x14 enlargements, especially ones that I think will benefit from toning.
 
Last thursday had a few hours to myself in the darkroom. I really like the bright white of the Oriental Seagull VC II, though I'm still trying to hit that really deep black (as usual it's there when it's wet, but not when it dries so hard to see accurately until it's completely dry). Tonality is rather nice to my eyes with the 2.5~3 contrast filter, I haven't tried one above 3.5 yet. The one small annoyance is that sometimes, just sometimes one of the sheets will be split in the corner, like a very small splitting open as if two plastic sheets laminated on paper split at the paper end.

A couple things I noticed or did differently since I was alone there that night :
  • The 68F mark on both built-in thermometer (shown circled in green) on the sinks in both rooms, actually puts out 65F water (multiple thermometers matching to be sure), putting it at 69F just dead center between the 68F and 70F mark puts out 68F at the end of the hose.
  • With the steel-bottomed sinks, it'll take the tray of 5L of fluid about 2.5 to 3 hours to drop to ~65F.
  • Usually we don't use perma wash (ie: archival fixer remover), so for my session that night, I had a tray at the end of the Sprint Fixer remover (Red Tray surrounded by two white water trays), so 1st wash, remover, final wash tray. (Usually it's just Sprint Print Dev 1:9, 90 sec, Sprint Stop 1:9 60 sec, water, Sprint Rapid Fixer [non-hardening] 1:9 3 minutes, final wash 5 mins, drying rack)
Pic (My enlarger station is the far back corner there, with the one dead enlarger next to me that I use as overflow):



The only other annoyance on the Seagull paper is I can't really write notes on the back of them, just kind of wipes off compared to the Ilford multigrade paper.
 
kb244 said:
The only other annoyance on the Seagull paper is I can't really write notes on the back of them, just kind of wipes off compared to the Ilford multigrade paper.
Click to expand...
Look for a really soft pencil - #6 or so.
Technically, it isn't fixer "remover". The fixer is removed by the wash. The clearing agent/wash aid just changes the fixer to a chemical complex that is more soluble in water than the original.
To get blacker blacks, try adding a very short burst with the highest contrast filter you have.
Looks like a great setup!
 
I believe that darkroom is why we can still buy film, paper and chemicals at Norman Camera!
 
Thanks for the tip.

Regarding the set up, I really wish we had a revolving door (because not everyone closes the curtain outside and then they just whip the door right open) and that my classmates would load their prints from back to front in the dryer rather than dripping all over everyone's prints trying to find the largest gap to put their print in.
 
Tim Stapp said:
I believe that darkroom is why we can still buy film, paper and chemicals at Norman Camera!
Click to expand...
Probably, though I don't, too expensive, too limited on choices. Most other accessories sure, but not film.

You know MCAT had a film darkroom too plus a 2 grand RC paper rapid l drier.
 
I use #2 pencil on back of Oriental. .no problem at all
 
 
I see the quote, but I don't see your response anywhere.
 
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