What grease to use for helical focusing lubrication?
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The best is first to remove the old grease, to clean thoroughly the thread and to very lightly re-lube it with oil or grease (depending on the circumstances).
As lubricant, I use NYOil and a regular lithium grease.
As lubricant, I use NYOil and a regular lithium grease.
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Helimax-XP is one. It is fairly inexpensive on the bay.
Don't use something that wasn't designed for the job. Greases and oils migrate and outgas and can damage or ruin your lens.
Don't use something that wasn't designed for the job. Greases and oils migrate and outgas and can damage or ruin your lens.
Do you soften dried out food often? Softening old lubrication is the same idea and same effectiveness.
Separate lens block from focus assembly. Take apart focus assembly and place it in camp fuel (naphtha), use toothbrush to clean old gunk (the dried lubrication). Cleaning it this way is almost instant.
Apply fresh lube for your liking. For old MF lenses in folders I'm using more solid lube. For RF lenses more liquid. Be careful to not over lube. Work it out after assembly and remove lube if it comes out.
Check for alignment. For me the second camera on infinity and black cross on the ground glass works the best... or digital camera to check focus alignment.
Separate lens block from focus assembly. Take apart focus assembly and place it in camp fuel (naphtha), use toothbrush to clean old gunk (the dried lubrication). Cleaning it this way is almost instant.
Apply fresh lube for your liking. For old MF lenses in folders I'm using more solid lube. For RF lenses more liquid. Be careful to not over lube. Work it out after assembly and remove lube if it comes out.
Check for alignment. For me the second camera on infinity and black cross on the ground glass works the best... or digital camera to check focus alignment.
You do not want to use a standard lithium grease if the helical is made from aluminum. There is a high temp silicone grease made to lubricate parts of a car's disc brakes (not the rotors, naturally! but some of the associated parts). It will not migrate at normal temps since this a super high temp lube. Helical grease would be even better and Microtools UK sells it and it's also on Amazon UK. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lubricant-Grease-Helical-50Gram-Tube-x/dp/B005KLCX5E
Yes, I was wondering about the wheel bearing and/or or disc brake caliper lubes. They are designed to function in very high temperature environments and not melt or run.
A repair article, now long since lost, recommended the cheapest axle grease you can find. Such grease is solely petroleum based without any additives. Beware of white grease or silicon grease which has a tendency to migrate within the lens and can cause problems.
+1 for Helimax-XP
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Jeesh. I just came back to this thread. Don't put axle grease in your lens.
The rule of thumb is if you can smell it, it is outgassing. I just gave the Helimax the sniff test. Practically nothing. Go give your axle grease a sniff.
Helimax, and some others, are designed to do exactly what they are needed for. Lubricate and stay in place.
Remind me to never buy lenses from some of the people who responded to this thread.....
The rule of thumb is if you can smell it, it is outgassing. I just gave the Helimax the sniff test. Practically nothing. Go give your axle grease a sniff.
Helimax, and some others, are designed to do exactly what they are needed for. Lubricate and stay in place.
Remind me to never buy lenses from some of the people who responded to this thread.....
I have used Nyogel 766 on my Agfa Folders after cleaning out the old green "cement." I have had no problems with the lube for the past two years, the focus still works smoothly and there is no evidence yet of oils migrating to other parts. I know that two years is not an in-depth test but so far I am happy with the results.
This lube is quickly available from Amazon and a link has been posted here already.
It was recommended by someone else from this forum or maybe Rangefinderforum.
This lube is quickly available from Amazon and a link has been posted here already.
It was recommended by someone else from this forum or maybe Rangefinderforum.
What do you do with your Jup-8 to use high temp grease? You toast it?
Come on, we are not dealing with precision mechanism and extreme conditions here , just an lens helicoid. I stand by what I wrote earlier even if it look like heresy to some. Why? Because I cleaned and lubed nearly a dozen of lenses this way and I never had issue. Said differently, I trust experience more that theory in this matter.
The most important is to limit to the minimum the amount of oil/grease you apply. I am always amazed to see how much stuff they put at the factory...
What do you do with your Jup-8 to use high temp grease? You toast it?
All greases consist of a matrix that contains oil. Bleeding-out of the oil from the matrix will not only degrade the grease but also make a mess outside the lubricated area. In their effect silicone oils are worse than mineral oils, leaving a soapy residue on the skin. Silcone oils are harder to clean off than mineral oils.
The idea behind advocating a high-temperature grease is that likely it shows less oil migration and oil vaporisation. The latter can also be an issue if the vapour condensates again on lens elements or other parts to stay clean of oil.
Furthermore greasing a helicoid is not just to reduce surface friction, but also to establish a twisting resistance of a defined grade.
Lubricating a helicoid thus is a complex matter, depending on its intended use. Thus even two identical lenses may be lubricated differently.
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Recently my camera shop had three identical 70-210mm single-ring lenses on offer. I even chose the one with a scratch on the front lens, as it had the least damping, making the barrel elongate even at once the lens is hanging down. But still for my use I considered it best. Another user may have chosen the two stiffer barrels.
Different use, different lube... I re-lubed 2 lenses for my FED 3 camera: 1 Industar-22 with the intention of getting is smooth as it can (I can focus it with the pinky) and 1 Industar-26 quite stiff as I don't want the focus to changed inadvertently (scale focus for street photography).
No, not axle grease! That's for axles. I said wheel bearing grease. Not the cheap stuff either (which smells).
It's funny, I'm in the auto repair business and lubricants are a very big deal. I occasionally speak with petroleum engineers and the tech in modern lubrication is mind blowing. If I were to service a lens helicoid I would spend a little time getting the material made for the job. The Jupiter 8 might be an exception though, axle grease may have been the factory fill! (Great optics tho....)
It's funny, I'm in the auto repair business and lubricants are a very big deal. I occasionally speak with petroleum engineers and the tech in modern lubrication is mind blowing. If I were to service a lens helicoid I would spend a little time getting the material made for the job. The Jupiter 8 might be an exception though, axle grease may have been the factory fill! (Great optics tho....)
The only lens I have re-lubed after cleaning was a Colour Skopar on a Vito B. It has a very coarse helical and I used plumbers grease for tap spindles. Chose this grease out of several I had on hand on the grounds that it probably doesn't migrate or break down under hot tap conditions. Results have been excellent.
I have another very expensive 'Plastic' grease for use in photocopiers but I haven't used it except to quiet down a couple of flatbed scanners.
I have another very expensive 'Plastic' grease for use in photocopiers but I haven't used it except to quiet down a couple of flatbed scanners.
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I lightly greased the external helical on my Medalist II with a dab of Vaseline. Not Mentholatum, odorless Vaseline. 
I agree with the comment that a lens helicoid is not high technology. Therefore just about any grease will work, axle, bearing, whatever. It IS important that the grease not migrate and can withstand summer temperatures without losing its viscosity.
http://richardhaw.com/tag/lens-grease/
here is my thorough write-up of what I use. As stated, if it smells it will deposit on the lens and cause haze that will be there permanently when left there for decades/years.
lithium and silicone grease is OK. always use modern ones that do not smell. grease migration? It will happen if you let it by applying too much. I use household lithium grease if I want to go cheap, they are also great for the stiffer german lenses of old. of course, I do not know what is available there where you are. Kino's link to the grease that I use. it is NOT cheap but you should be investing in this anyway to prevent headaches later. I also source my grease from where Nikon gets her grease but they come in tubs. Ric.
here is my thorough write-up of what I use. As stated, if it smells it will deposit on the lens and cause haze that will be there permanently when left there for decades/years.
lithium and silicone grease is OK. always use modern ones that do not smell. grease migration? It will happen if you let it by applying too much. I use household lithium grease if I want to go cheap, they are also great for the stiffer german lenses of old. of course, I do not know what is available there where you are. Kino's link to the grease that I use. it is NOT cheap but you should be investing in this anyway to prevent headaches later. I also source my grease from where Nikon gets her grease but they come in tubs. Ric.
I use Motorex grease 190 EP and adhesive oil. First, I always make sure that the threaded rings or tubes run freely together dry. Then I apply the smallest possible amount of lubricant to find out how much the threads want. The worst situation one can have is parts out of round. No amount of lubricant can remedy bent rings. Seldomly I use Molykote for a winter lube.
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