One possible issue with printing-out processes of any sort is that exposure is so often done "by eye", like developing by inspection. With this machine, where exposure is by time and the print is out of sight during exposure, you'd have to find ways to actually control the sensitivity of your coatings, or else you'd be in a random walk trying to get prints that work -- and that would be equally true of van Dyke, cyanotype, salt prints, etc.
Mind you, I don't know how much variation there is in the sensitivity of the various UV processes -- some folks get pretty consistent exposures from the same negative with developing-out processes like platinum/palladium, so it may be less of an issue than I think; my extremely variable cyanotype exposures may be more due to using natural sunlight than any variability inherent in the process itself.
Seems to me it'd be cheap to find out -- a Formulary traditional cyano kit is under $20 plus shipping.
BTW, you can change the color of cyano by either bleach/tone or direct toning processes. I soak mine in strong, cold black tea (seems to work best with Red Rose in the bags) and the blue darkens, eventually reaching a nearly neutral black while the paper picks up a very subtle tan base color; it's MUCH more pleasant for things like portraits than the original blue.