I agree, I think that lab processing 400CN or XP2 is the absolute best option for you, but everyone here is so busy telling you what they think the best option for themselves is, I was afraid you'd have run away screaming by now. Most of these guys would've had you doing wet plate cyanotyping or something equally ridiculous if they had their way.
What do I think of your choices?
I tried to tell you before, but I guess I did not make it plain enough.
You need to eliminate as many variables as possible. Your images are unusable and you have introduced so many uncontrollable variables that you will never be able to sort it out until you eliminate as many of those variables as possible.
As I said, before, stick with the Pentax and get a tripod and a cable release. I am not saying that the Pentax will do the job, just that it is the best of what you have. Forget the Minolta, it appears to have so many issues that it will not be usable until you have gotten to the point where you can differentiate where the problems are and that they are not with you.
Quit trying to fast forward to the best film possible and just use one that the processor will not be able to mess up and concentrate on what you see on the developed film, not the product of some poorly printed negatives or a scanner that is either incapable of doing what you need or beyond your capability to use at an acceptable level of result. Believe me, the problems you are having, provided you are not using film years out of date, do not lie with the film. Any film you can buy will produce far better results than you are getting now. Even if you did get good processing on fresh film, you still need to sort out the focusing issues and learn how to get a good exposure.
So, either use a slide film that gives as neutral a rendition as possible (not saturated colors) or, if you cannot take incident meter readings or you are unable to arrange processing for color slides (E-6 processing) then, use C-41 process B&W film, such as those that have been mentioned, like BW400CN.
Using a tripod and a cable release eliminates the variables you induce by hand holding the camera and allows you to precisely focus the image and release the shutter without inducing any movement.
Using slide film narrows the exposure range, will accurately reproduce the colors of the subject and reduces processing errors to a minimum. If you cannot arrange for processing of slide film, such as Kodak Ektachrome 100 or Fuji Provia 100 F, then use a C-41 process B&W film that can be processed by any 1 Hour Moto-Foto outlet the world over.
Just have the film developed, never mind prints.
Really, where you are now, if you can just sort out focusing and exposure, without any light leaks, you will be way ahead and able to produce images far better than the ones you have been posting. Just work on those two things and quit worrying about trying to do anything more than that.