What film...and why?

Kimberly Anderson · May 24, 2008

So, with the upcoming 8x20 aquisition I'm getting ready to plunk down some change and order some film.

I'm finding out that I have more choices than I thought I would...and am starting to wonder which film will be around a reasonably long time, and what other folks are using.

I will primarily be doing alt. processes with the film, and with 8x20 would like the option of keeping exposure times short if I wish (a higher speed film maybe???).

I'm not married to any particular type/brand/speed of film right now, but am liking the Ilford in 120 sizes for GSP's. I have been using the Berger 12x20 film, but have had mixed results (operator error more than likely).

Looking for input as to what type of film you are using, why you are using it, and what other film you *wish* you were using...and why.

Let 'er rip!

David A. Goldfarb · May 24, 2008

In formats like this, the best film is the one you can get. If you can get more than one, it's a matter of taste.

Kimberly Anderson · May 24, 2008

Definitely. But, it seems at least before actually calling up and ordering, that there are several films in 8x20. The Kodak TMY-2 seems interesting w/out the UV coating. Ilford has been good for me in 120, and the Berger, although available, leaves me wanting more.

So, for those who have tried more than one film in ULF, I'm curious as to what their tastes are and what their results have been.

Scott Peters · May 24, 2008

I would start with some of the EFKE films. I have had nice luck with them and they are less expensive to start so you can burn more film while you are learning. With the 100 and pyrocat MC its a nice combo, tough to blow out the highlights...darn near impossible...nice for contrasty situations. For lower sbr ranges you may want to try a different film, maybe the EFKE 25...

photo8x10 · May 24, 2008

I've started with a 8x20 camera and my films are FP4+ and HP5+ I used also Bergger 200 with wonderful results.

Best

Stefano

Peter Schrager · May 24, 2008

pl100 in 8x20

while I have not used my pl100 in 8x20 yet I have used it in 8x10 and it is a good film...but there are issues with this film and my feelings are that the larger you go the more with the issues...such as a light banding on the film that is not visible to the naked eye...made some azo prints and that is what I got...fact is that I have NEVER EVER had a problem like that in over 10,000 negatives...the majors certainly do a better job...hp5 or fp4 are both great films..would prefer the tmax but this run does not include it...don't fool yourself tmay400 is THE king of films...beautiful results with azo and platinum!!
Best, Peter

sanking · May 24, 2008

Michael Slade said:
So, with the upcoming 8x20 aquisition I'm getting ready to plunk down some change and order some film.

I'm finding out that I have more choices than I thought I would...and am starting to wonder which film will be around a reasonably long time, and what other folks are using.

I will primarily be doing alt. processes with the film, and with 8x20 would like the option of keeping exposure times short if I wish (a higher speed film maybe???).

I'm not married to any particular type/brand/speed of film right now, but am liking the Ilford in 120 sizes for GSP's. I have been using the Berger 12x20 film, but have had mixed results (operator error more than likely).

Looking for input as to what type of film you are using, why you are using it, and what other film you *wish* you were using...and why.

Let 'er rip!

Are you planning to print with alternative processes with these negatives? If so, the best films are T-MAX 400, FP4+ and Efke PL100. They all are capable of the high average gradient you need with most alt processes. Efke is the best bargin in ULF films, IMO.

If you plan to print silver any of the films should give good results.

Sandy

RobertP · May 24, 2008

I must be lucky so far. I've shot hundreds of sheets of Efke pl100 in 8x20 and I have yet to see any banding problems, even in the sky areas. I've recently started shooting Efke pl50 in 8x20 and 12x20 and it is a gorgeous film also.

vic vic · May 24, 2008

one general film for contacts - hp5+. it is easily available for normal formats and for unusual too. very flexible, in developer choice (especially for contact print), for exposure, various contrast scenes etc... well, unless u want something with different tonal response - like ortho films (adox is great) or infrared ones.

2F/2F · May 24, 2008

On my way to Freestyle RIGHT NOW to buy some Efke PL25 in 12x20 for my pinhole.

Any of these films are good. I would go for HP5 myself if I had my way. It is very versatile and I already know it very well. But the Efke is very nice and very cheap. I have not had one problem with it in all formats and all speeds. I am not going to bother to special order something from Ilford when I can just pick up the Efke off of the shelf. It is a marvelous film.

Personally, I find TMax and Delta to be ugly films. But that's my opinion. Then again, it seems common to state opinion as fact in this thread, so I'm gonna just stick with what I said.

In short, just pick one and see how you like it. Your film choice is the least of your worries. A bad pic is a bad pic regardless of what film you use, and a good pic is a good pic regardless of what film you use. If you have the ability to make good pix on that camera, they will be good with any of the available films.

Jim Fitzgerald · May 24, 2008

Michael, I have used the Efke Pl-100 and the Bergger 200 and like them both. I like the tone I get with the Efke film and Pyrocat-HD. If I could afford Tmax-400 I would get some. I've used it in 8x10 and like what it does. I've had good success with the Efke. Next round I'm going to get a box of 8x20 Pl-25. It has the look that I'm after.

Jim

Kimberly Anderson · May 25, 2008

I haven't tried the PL-25. If it's a good one, and inexpensive, it might be a good way to break me into the 8x20. Sandy, yes these negatives will be printed mainly alt.

Jim Noel · May 25, 2008

I print in several of the alt processes including Pt/Pd, salt and albumen. These require very long scale negatives so my first choice is FP4+. When I am out of this I use either Efke 25 or Efke 100. Efke 25 gives me the contrast I need more readily than does the 100. I use the 100 when I need the 2 extra stops. All are developed in Pyrocat HD+.

Don12x20 · May 27, 2008

Larger Negatives imply longer focal length lenses which imply stopping down more to achieve depth of field, particularly where camera movements aren't feasible.

If this describes your proposed use of the 8x10 (else maybe you don't like depth of field?), then slower emulsions implies more reciprocity failure compared to faster films and longer exposure times compared with faster films. If you're outdoors, then this means more potential wind movement. Indoors it just means your shutter is open a longer time, and if you are using lighting -- just more sequential flashes to build up the exposure even for fill flash.

So, many using ULF prefer higher speed films over slower speed films. (You'll see this in both Dick Arentz's Platinum books as well as Dick Sullivan's book for platinum where they discuss film availability for larger formats). YMMV.

John Sexton's testing on TMX and TMY shows TMX has the best **(eg least) reciprocity failure characteristics, but unfortunately since late 2002/early 2003 they have included a UV filter layer in TMX which causes extremely long printing times for those using alt processes. this leaves TMY as the next best choice (far better than HP5) for reciprocity as well as having a high ISO speed compared with FP4 and others. << ** I've seen other peoples published reciprocity charts showing TMY is slightly better than TMX. John's results showed much better for TMY than TMX. You'll have to do your own testing>>

YMMV.
I use tmany (not Efke nor Bergger) - have a freezer filled with TriX, TMY, HP5 and FP4 in 7x17 and 12x20. I have noticed that older HP5, even frozen, tends to fog compared to Trix or TMY. My preferences are for Tri-X followed by TMY followed by FP4.....

Don12x20 · May 27, 2008

Last post, change to "If this describes your proposed use of the 8x20"

Kimberly Anderson · May 27, 2008

Thanks Don, you have brought up some good points. I don't like to shoot wide open. Usually 2/3rds stopped down if not a little more. I haven't gotten the camera yet, and am not sure which lenses are coming with it. I do have my 24inch Gold Dot. Hopefully the bellows is long enough.

Don12x20 · May 27, 2008

2/3rds stopped down works fine for enlarging.
If you are doing alt processes with contact printing -- you can go all the way to f64, f128 or f256 (or more) with no effects....the edge diffraction effects just don't show with contact printing.

So if you have an 1100 XXL or 1100 Doktor Geronar or 42 inch Artar or other long lens with almost no depth of focus wide open, you can gain extra depth of focus when you need it. (again faced with slower exposure and more reciprocity effects).

Kimberly Anderson · May 28, 2008

Don,

Thanks for the information about edge diffraction. I hadn't planned on learning about more than film in this thread. I always say you learn something every day...*if* you pay attention.

SAShruby · May 30, 2008

I use Efke PL100, because it's cheaper, but I find ISO100 slow for my work, I'd prefer 400-500 range. Is Tri-X or TMY available in ULF?

c6h6o3 · May 31, 2008

SAShruby said:
TMY available in ULF?

Dead Link Removed

Sal Santamaura · May 31, 2008

c6h6o3 said:
Dead Link Removed

That link (to Glazer's "ULF" TMY2 page) begs a question.

150 boxes of 6-1/2 x 8-1/2 were pre-ordered, i.e. paid for, by users and Glazer's placed the order with Kodak yesterday. Since the 11x14 and 12x20 periods ended yesterday, were sufficient quantities of those sizes pre-ordered to meet Kodak's minimums and a Glazer's order placed with Kodak for either or both?

Sal Santamaura · May 31, 2008

Sal Santamaura said:
...Since the 11x14 and 12x20 periods ended yesterday, were sufficient quantities of those sizes pre-ordered to meet Kodak's minimums and a Glazer's order placed with Kodak for either or both?

Question answered here:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Glazer's Camera · May 31, 2008

Hi Sal,

Thanks for you interest, even in those formats that you didn't order or evince any interest in. The pre-order dates I've set are fluid. I've arbitrarily chosen one month pre-order periods so that things don't drag on forever and so that we are not holding people's money for an extended time (which I think was one problem with the ULF order that went so horribly wrong a few years back, and which we were not involved in at all.) I think there are some bumps that are gradually being worked out, but so far we've placed orders for 14x17, 6.5x8.5,and most likely 12x20. We are not bound by any timeframe from Kodak or anyone else, so we are able to place an order with Kodak any time during the year provided there is enough interest. Please stop by Kodak's booth at foto3 and say "hello". This is a phenomenal film and the guys there have been incredibly helpful when I've called them with questions or concerns from the ULF community. I won't be at foto3 this year (but hopefully next year!), but it looks like it's shaping up to be a great conference. Thanks again for all the interest and support and I'm sure this will be an ongoing enterprise.

SAShruby · Jun 4, 2008

c6h6o3 said:
Dead Link Removed

Pity, I need 8x20.

photo8x10 · Jun 4, 2008

SAShruby said:
Pity, I need 8x20.

I need too!

And It's impossible to open the glazer's site....

Stefano

What film...and why?

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