I just got my hasselblad 500C ready to shoot with 120 black and white film in hand then realized it wouldn't crank. Googled it to find (outside my understanding) 220 film is very different from 120. Is it better to just go ahead and sell the 24 and attempt to get an a12 or purchase 220 film?
You won't get much for a 220 back, you can try 120 in it, when you get to 12 you need to wind to end.
A A12 is easier to deal with.
Kodak stopped trix in 220 about 2009 so there is still some about in mono or use the Fuji colour.
I tried cutting a 220 back in half to get a 120 back, but instead it became a 110 back, and that didn't work at all...
I tried cutting a 220 back in half to get a 120 back, but instead it became a 110 back, and that didn't work at all...
You won't get much for a 220 back, you can try 120 in it, when you get to 12 you need to wind to end.
A A12 is easier to deal with.
Kodak stopped trix in 220 about 2009 so there is still some about in mono or use the Fuji colour.
Hahahahahaha
Im gunna trade in my 62 yr old wife for 2 31yr olds n see if that works!
Dumb idea, as you end up getting twice as much grief all the time as with one wife!
Try 120 in the 220 back.
You'll have to experiment with the starting point n expect some frame bunching as the roll goes on to the end.
But it is doable.
Apart from the number of shots on a roll, the only difference will be the gap which is left for the film to pass through as the (incorrectly titled) pressure plate rests on the outer rails. You can increase that gap by putting bits of tape on the outer rails so the plate doesn't get so close to the film.
You should be able to work out what I mean by looking at this: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photograph...ameras/nikonf/fbody/images/illusfilmplate.gif
Steve.
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