What do I need to bore a hole?

Shinnya · Nov 24, 2005

Hi,

I am thinking of boring a hole on lens boards that I just made from birch plywood. I would like to be able to do this process on my own unless it is too costly. I would like to know what people use to make a hole with different sizes? What a drilling tool and bits do I need? Could someone enlighten me on this? Thanks again.

Warmly,
Tsuyoshi

chiller · Nov 24, 2005

Shinnya said:
Hi,

I am thinking of boring a hole on lens boards that I just made from birch plywood. I would like to be able to do this process on my own unless it is too costly. I would like to know what people use to make a hole with different sizes? What a drilling tool and bits do I need? Could someone enlighten me on this? Thanks again.

Warmly,
Tsuyoshi

Drill a small hole and then use a coping or fret saw and hen you can smooth it out with sand paper. The old fashioned way but it is very easy

David A. Goldfarb · Nov 24, 2005

I've done this using an ordinary hand drill, three clamps for the lensboard, and a set of keyhole saws. The keyhole saws can leave a rough edge, but it's not absolutely critical, so I just sand the edges a bit. Forstner bits will do a neater job, but they cost a bit more.

Donald Miller · Nov 24, 2005

I have used a hand brace and an expandable bit. Both of these items are available at a lumber supply store.

Nick Zentena · Nov 24, 2005

Drill press and forstner bit in the right size.

Cheaper would be some sort of hole cutter and a hand drill. Something like this

http://www.boschtools.com/accessories/accessories-category.htm?H=176227

Depends on what you have already. How much other use you'll have for the tools. If it's only one hole and you've no use for the tools I'd pay somebody to do it. If you're going to make a few or can use the tools for something else then it's different.

David A. Goldfarb · Nov 24, 2005

Wow. Ask "how do I drill a hole?" and you get 4 answers in two minutes.

Nick Zentena · Nov 24, 2005

I've got a metal board that came with a B&J press camera looks like it was chipped out with a chisel. Drill? Who needs a drill -)

df cardwell · Nov 24, 2005

I think the 'old fashioned way' is either a lathe or a drill press with a hole saw.

Cavemen used medium format and had no need for Victorian machinery to cut round holes in woood.

Ole · Nov 24, 2005

I use a hole saw and my grandfather's old manual drill. Having to turn the crank by hand makes it a lot easier to get a nice cut - since I don't have a drill press, manual is the best way to do it.

And then I use a file to adjust the size of the hole (metal boards), or just a very sharp knife (wood boards).

Shinnya · Nov 24, 2005

Wow, that was very quick! Thanks everyone.

I have a regular powerdrill but not a drill press or a fretsaw. I do not see a immediate use in the near future, so I cannot justify buying them.

One question for holesaw or forstner bit is that the sizes. This particular hole is for Acume #4 shutter. Do they come in such wide variety of sizes?

Also, does anyone has a link to table of different hole sizes on SK Grimes website?

Thanks again,
Tsuyoshi

Nick Zentena · Nov 24, 2005

You don't really want to use a forstner bit in a hand drill. You REALLY don't want to use one big enough to cut a #4 hole. I'm going to bet a bit that big won't even fit a hand drill.

David Brown · Nov 24, 2005

Shinnya said:
One question for holesaw or forstner bit is that the sizes. This particular hole is for Acume #4 shutter. Do they come in such wide variety of sizes?

Thanks again,
Tsuyoshi

Hole saws come in sizes by 1/8th of an inch. Forstner bits by 1/16th or metric. Hole saws can get pretty large, but you might not want to use one larger than 2 inches in a hand drill. Same for forstners.

There might be metric hole saws, too, I've just never seen any.

A hand drill will be fine, just clamp everything down. DO NOT use your hand to hold the lens board (or whatever workpiece) and attempt to drill a large hole!

David

Shinnya · Nov 24, 2005

So,

I really should try to use a drillpress if I use forstner bit. Let me see if anyone I know has it or not. Thanks for your comment.

Nick Zentena said:
You don't really want to use a forstner bit in a hand drill. You REALLY don't want to use one big enough to cut a #4 hole. I'm going to bet a bit that big won't even fit a hand drill.

Ole · Nov 24, 2005

not hole sizes, but thread sizes: http://www.skgrimes.com/flanges/index.htm

I've done Compound #3 holes with a hole saw, but that's about the limit of doing it in one operation.

Shinnya · Nov 24, 2005

So, the hole size is something I have to get from flange...

Ole said:
not hole sizes, but thread sizes: http://www.skgrimes.com/flanges/index.htm

I've done Compound #3 holes with a hole saw, but that's about the limit of doing it in one operation.

Lee L · Nov 24, 2005

Here's what I would use:

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=800-705&LARGEVIEW=ON

It cuts a much cleaner edge than a hole saw, and is continuously adjustable over its range. There are a couple of sizes with different diameter ranges. This should work in a good hand brace, but my use has been with a drill press.

A Forstner bit would work well also, but not without a drill press unless you can find some way to steady it. Forstners are edge-guided and won't stay on track for a good start with a hand powered drill. A Forstner would likely work with a hand-held electric drill, I've done that before.

Lee

Shinnya · Nov 24, 2005

This is what exactly I was looking for! Thanks, Lee.

Warmly,
Tsuyoshi

Lee L said:
Here's what I would use:

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=800-705&LARGEVIEW=ON

It cuts a much cleaner edge than a hole saw, and is continuously adjustable over its range. There are a couple of sizes with different diameter ranges. This should work in a good hand brace, but my use has been with a drill press.

Lee

Lee L · Nov 24, 2005

You're welcome. Glad to help. Good luck with the project.

Here's another source:

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?DeptID=2149&FamilyID=799

a link I posted for Amazon.com (and just edited out) fails, but you can go to their tools and hardware section and search for "circle cutter".

Lee

rbarker · Nov 24, 2005

This table may be helpful:

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/lensboard_hole_sizes.html

Shinnya · Nov 24, 2005

This was also exactly what I was looking for. It was not on the SK Grimes website, though... Thanks for your input.

Warmly,
Tsuyoshi

rbarker said:
This table may be helpful:

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/lensboard_hole_sizes.html

John Kasaian · Nov 24, 2005

.410 bore, full choke= Copal "00"
20 guage, modified choke= Copal "0"
12 guage, full choke=Copal #1
12 guage, improved cylinder=Copal #3
10 guage, modified choke=Acme & Universal #3
10 guage, any choke, both barrels should give you a hole big enough to ream for Betax #3 and Ilex and Betax #4 &#5 shutters.

______________
note #1= always wear ear protection and safety glasses.
note #2= On ranges where water quality is an issue, steel or bismuth shot may be required.;-)

Lee L · Nov 24, 2005

John Kasaian said:
.410 bore, full choke= Copal "00"
20 guage, modified choke= Copal "0"
12 guage, full choke=Copal #1
12 guage, improved cylinder=Copal #3
10 guage, modified choke=Acme & Universal #3
10 guage, any choke, both barrels should give you a hole big enough to ream for Betax #3 and Ilex and Betax #4 &#5 shutters.

______________
note #1= always wear ear protection and safety glasses.
note #2= On ranges where water quality is an issue, steel or bismuth shot may be required.;-)

Two things:

1) You don't mention the EOB* to lensboard distance when "drilling" the hole.

2) How much filing is required to smooth the edge?

Lee

*(end of barrel)

mgb74 · Nov 24, 2005

John Kasaian said:
.410 bore, full choke= Copal "00"
20 guage, modified choke= Copal "0"
12 guage, full choke=Copal #1
12 guage, improved cylinder=Copal #3
10 guage, modified choke=Acme & Universal #3
10 guage, any choke, both barrels should give you a hole big enough to ream for Betax #3 and Ilex and Betax #4 &#5 shutters.

______________
note #1= always wear ear protection and safety glasses.
note #2= On ranges where water quality is an issue, steel or bismuth shot may be required.;-)

Note #3 = whoever is holding the board while being drilled should hold it off to the side

But more seriously, I've noticed some variation for other shutters. My 90mm Optar WA in Graphex shutter measures 29mm (outside diameter of threads) and is therefore pretty loose in a copal 0 hole. The flange will cover the excess, but you do have to keep it tight. I have some Graflex lensboard with what I think are "factory" holes that measure 32mm.

I've also been wondering the best way to enlarge a hole. I was thinking of building a simple wooden jib with criss-crossed saw kerfs to hold the lens board in place. (This is for a graflex board with the turned down edges.) Then drilling using the wood to hold the pilot bit in place. Comments? Suggestions?

Jon Shiu · Nov 24, 2005

You can easily enlarge a hole with a small sanding cylinder (drum) that fits in your drill. Costs a few dollars at the hardware store in the sandpaper section. Best to draw the circle with a compass first.

Jon

KenM · Nov 24, 2005

Shinnya said:
This is what exactly I was looking for! Thanks, Lee.

Warmly,
Tsuyoshi

Be sure you use a drill press with one of these, and make sure you clamp the work to the table - DO NOT try and hold the work yourself. A drill press has quite a bit of torque, especially at low RPMs, which is required for a cutter like the one Lee suggested. If you're using your hands to hold the workpiece, and the cutter binds, you could do some damage to your hand....

That said, I have the same type of cutter, and it does work quite well.

What do I need to bore a hole?

Shinnya

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