Ishoot t at ISO64 an develop in D76 1+1@20 ℃;excellent film!In my life I've shot exactly one roll of this, but after printing one of those negs yesterday, I'm wondering why I didn't keep shooting it? It looks like a very sharp film. Any ideas on what ISO to shoot it at, or what it likes for a developer? I have several, but would like to use the D76 before it goes off, unless that's a poor choice. This 1 roll cost $11+ to buy and have delivered, which is pretty scary. I must say though, the box is very attractive!
I like the tones, seems to a bit less contrastrey than Tmax 100, I've shot a couple of rolls in the dark ages, maybe 80s when it was released, just never took time to find the right film developer combo, I think you can push tamx to 400 while Ilford data sheet Delta 100 should not be pushed past 200. Tmax has very high resolution, I don't see a posted resolution for Delta.
KODAK PROFESSIONAL Film Resolving Power* Diffuse rms Granularity† T-MAX 100 63 lines/mm (TOC 1.6:1) 8 200 lines/mm (TOC 1000:1)
It’s great film and I’m sure it will love any developer it takes a bath inIn my life I've shot exactly one roll of this, but after printing one of those negs yesterday, I'm wondering why I didn't keep shooting it? It looks like a very sharp film. Any ideas on what ISO to shoot it at, or what it likes for a developer? I have several
.This also allows them to sell repackaged Kentmere as Ultrafine Xtreme and simultaneously claim that "no ILFORD film has ever been rebranded.
“made in England “ film from photo warehouse for $35 when Kodak was $70 and ilford was like $60. Paper too…
https://www.largeformatphotography....hp?11217-Forte-Efke-J-C-Freestyle-100-200-400I wonder was that part of the reason for the bankruptcy ( I am sure it was more complicated) selling rebranded for nearly half price. Not enough profit margin.
Which Tmax? How is it different?I’d love for them to get rid of that stupid, pointless Harman strip at the bottom.
Ilfords packaging was perfection before that.
I don’t care about Harman or what they are (I know exactly what they are).
The brand I care about is Ilford.
Why do they feel the need to push two brands?
Are they planning on doing something with the Harman brand?
Seems schizophrenic.
And oh yeah. Delta is great in XTOL 1:1, Rodinal 50 and D76.
I really have a hard time telling them apart.
Just amazing film. Quite different from its competitor TMX too.
The reason for wanting slow films with large/ultra-large format is that you sometimes want to use those giant old fast-aperture portrait lenses that don't have a built-in shutter and are too big for use with anything other than a Packard shutter or a lens cap. When the fastest reliable exposure control is 1/30th of a second, and the next fastest is 1 second plus, you NEED slow films or you end up with negatives whose highlights are completely blown out and shadows are blocked up. Or so dense that they're not even good for salt or albumen printing.@jimjm I never tried large format, and keep forgetting to ask: why do you guys ever bother with slow films? I mean their primary advantage is small grain, but do you really care about grain at 8x10? Thanks!
Well, if I have to put words on it, Delta has a bit more tooth. Is a tad more traditional in it’s looks.Which Tmax? How is it different?
The reason for wanting slow films with large/ultra-large format is that you sometimes want to use those giant old fast-aperture portrait lenses that don't have a built-in shutter and are too big for use with anything other than a Packard shutter or a lens cap. When the fastest reliable exposure control is 1/30th of a second, and the next fastest is 1 second plus, you NEED slow films or you end up with negatives whose highlights are completely blown out and shadows are blocked up. Or so dense that they're not even good for salt or albumen printing.
Rule of thumb for these films I use is ... If it's sheet film of any kind, back to D76 or XTol.
Why is that the rule? I'm not at all disagreeing, but just wondering what the motivation for the rule is, as I "anecdotally" would have thought that not to be the case (I would have probably guessed sheet film = some pyro variant). As I begin my journey into LF, just trying to learn more.
All opinions will vary to some extent and it's definitely true that lots of LF folks use Pyro. There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing so, as the pyro developers are fantastic. In my experience however I don't see the advantage over XTol or D76. You're already in a world of grainless images with fine detail. I'm guessing the largest most photographers go is 16x20 or 20x24, and for sheet film this is not really pushing the envelope. When it comes to a particular response re contrast then it's really don't to the individual photographer to choose a developer that suits. However when it comes to reducing grain or increasing contrast you have various stocks that will go farther than developers can. You can go from HP5 to FP4 or Delta 100, similarly if you need the speed but still want to minimize grain there is TMax 400.
On the other hand if you have a Hasselblad and you want to make a 20x20' print, you can take your negative a lot farther by using a pyro staining or otherwise high acutance developer or technique. It's in those circumstances where IMHO you see the big difference. Despite saying that, if you have times that work for you for 120 let's say FP4+, the sheet film times are probably not far off, so I can see just sticking with them even if it's not strictly necessary from an image quality perspective. At the end of the day we all find our own preferences. Many people, I suspect, simply enjoy trying something different. Nothing wrong with that!
"Too perfect" is sort of my conclusion, and also too close to FP4+. But, I am still trying to find my perfectly imperfect film. Perhaps I need to look at the printing more.Not my favourite film as I find it "too perfect", if that makes sense. But when I have used it, ID-11 and box speed as others say.
Yep, seems most of the responses are an argument about branding strategies that I don't understand or see as relevant.I don't understand the anger at the Harman sub-branding..
I have Delta 100 only used with Rodinal 1+50 and ID-11 1+3. I like Rodinal more, but in general I do like FP4+ more.
This is the film that for me made the demise of Plus-X a little easier to bear.In my life I've shot exactly one roll of this, but after printing one of those negs yesterday, I'm wondering why I didn't keep shooting it? It looks like a very sharp film.
+1The Delta films in D-76 1:1 are a great combination. I use both D100 and D400, and expose them at 64ASA and 250 ASA, respectively.
With a solvent developer like D-76 there definitely is. You get less sulfite with more dilution, so less solvent effect, so different grain. Grainier and sharper. Because Delta 100 has such fine grain this trade off is often a nice result. That said, I like it in XTOL stock.Is there any difference to the negative with more dilute developer and longer develop times?
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