How do you know what you're seeing isn't from the lens on the film camera that was used to take the original photo? Or a combination of that lens plus whatever lens you're using on your scanning rig? Or a combination of that plus the film wasn't flat? So do you want to remove lens problems from the scanning rig plus the lens from the film camera? Or just the scanning rig? How about keep it simple and do neither?My biggest concern looking at your list is applying the lens profile which Adobe does automatically. The Sigma macros, while the sharpest, are a bit bubbly.
what is this other stuff you guys/gals use?
How do you know what you're seeing isn't from the lens on the film camera that was used to take the original photo? Or a combination of that lens plus whatever lens you're using on your scanning rig? Or a combination of that plus the film wasn't flat? So do you want to remove lens problems from the scanning rig plus the lens from the film camera? Or just the scanning rig? How about keep it simple and do neither?
Having seen the results from earlier versions of your Simple Image Tools software, I am looking forward to seeing the finished product.
I am running MacOS 13.6.7 Ventura on a 2020 Intel iMac (iMac20,1). I usually lag about one version behind the latest version of the Mac OS software, so it will be time for me to update to Sonoma soon. I tend to keep my hardware much longer, 5-10 years, but obviously my next Mac will have some variation of their M-series chip rather than Intel.
My scanning camera is presently an old Fuji X-T1. If I decide to upgrade my digital camera, I will probably stick with Fuji, but I can't afford their latest models. Hopefully your RAW converter will be able to do a good job with files from a Fuji X-Trans sensor; if not, that might be a problem for me.
I guess you can cross me off of your list, then. I think I've been getting OK results using Negative Lab Pro to convert photos of C-41 negatives taken with my Fuji camera, but that is based only a few rolls of film, and I've not tried any other camera for comparison.Libraw technically supports xtrans, but unless a whole pile of people use that sensor type it will be some time before I officially support it in simple image tools. It is quite literally the definition of special handling, and because it has significantly reduced color resolution, I don’t recommend it for c-41 scanning.
How do you know what you're seeing isn't from the lens on the film camera that was used to take the original photo?
With Bayer CFA sensors, it doesn't matter much, though I use Canon in-house. My hardware evolution was a Rebel T3i, then a Canon 80D, then a 90D, then the R5. I've been toying with getting a Fuji medium format system for scanning medium format film, but only so that I can get better than the roughly 2400 dpi I can muster with the current system.I guess you can cross me off of your list, then. I think I've been getting OK results using Negative Lab Pro to convert photos of C-41 negatives taken with my Fuji camera, but that is based only a few rolls of film, and I've not tried any other camera for comparison.
I could pick up a non-Fuji camera just for camera scanning. My old Fuji is only 16MP, so I might benefit from more pixels when digitizing film. Do you have any preference for working with Nikon files vs. Canon, vs. whatever? I prefer mirrorless, but my only real requirement for scanning would be an adaptor to fit the camera to the Pentax screw mount bellows I use with my copy lens.
Would importing a raw tiff scan from Vuescan work as well? I am using an old Minolta Elite Scan II for 35mm and Epson V800 for medium format.
Super old laptop, mostly Kubuntu (mostly the latest release), but have Win10 floating around as well. For the moment I am using Darktable negadoctor for inversion...
@Adrian Bacon, While I briefly considered getting a non-Fuji digital camera which I could dedicate to film scanning, I soon abandoned that idea for a number of reasons. And after looking at the competition, when I finally decide to replace my old Fuji X-T1, I'm pretty sure I will get a Fuji X-T5.
So the bottom line for me is:
IF your software can give good results when inverting RAW color negative files made with a Fuji X-Trans sensor, and
IF I like your GUI, and
IF it will run on my Mac computer, and
IF I can purchase your sofware for less than $200,
... then then it is quite likely I will be a customer for you.
Otherwise, I will probably continue to use Negative Lab Pro with Adobe Lightroom.
About the GUI, there is one feature I really depend on when using any photo editing software, and that is the ability to instantly Undo and Redo any adjustment. Preferably with keyboard shortcuts. If it takes any significant amount of time to redraw the screen when I Undo / Redo the edit, then it becomes too difficult for me evaluate the success of the edit.
Thanks for listening.
...were expensive third party tools like Rawtherapee etc.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?