What are your thoughts on the Soligor Spot Sensor II
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I have been using a 'Pentax Digital Spot', a 'Minolta Spot Meter F' and a 'Soligor Spot Sensor II'. I would say that the Soligor is a bit bulkier compared to the other two, otherwise it is perfectly fine and works very well.
Thanks, Henpe. Does it have a light in the viewfinder to help see the needle? My FE uses a needle meter, and it can be hard to see sometime.
Ahh, ok...I have only used the digital version of the Soligor, not the one with an analogue readout.
I have the digital version. It gives me exactly one stop lower readings compared to my Gossen Sixtomat Digital. I'm not sure which one is correct, but I have found that I most of the time wants to expose the (negative) film a little more when I use the Gossen.
The needle version, I think the needle locks in place when you let go of the button. Then it's easy to point it to the sky or a brighter object to see the reading.
The needle version, I think the needle locks in place when you let go of the button. Then it's easy to point it to the sky or a brighter object to see the reading.
I used the analog version of the Soligor Spot Sensor II for many, many years until I got a Pentax Digital Spot meter. I still own the Soligor and it still works (some 40 years later), but the Pentax is smaller. I've found in comparing readings between the Pentax and the Soligor, that in the lower EV range the Soligor provides different reading vs the Pentax. Like JPD, I couldn't tell you which one is correct, but I've never been dissatisfied with the exposures using either meter. As I'm getting older and the eye sight ain't what it used to be, sometimes I find the analog needle of the Soligor easier to read.
I've used both the analogue and digital models; along with a Pentax Digital Spot converted by Zone VI; a Soligor Digital Spot converted by Zone VI, and also a Minolta Spot Meter F. They all read within about +/- 1/3 EV on my Kodak 18% gray card. I expected a bit more deviation, but I'm very pleased with all of them.
When you get your Soligor, use the gray card to test the meter, since that's the standard that was used. Then, compare that reading to a spot meter in a SLR. There shouldn't be a huge deviation.
When you get your Soligor, use the gray card to test the meter, since that's the standard that was used. Then, compare that reading to a spot meter in a SLR. There shouldn't be a huge deviation.
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I used analog Soligor Spot Sensor II a few years. It was just only my meter and I was happy with it. But after some time I start seeing that in a low light situations the needle some kind of moving very slow. After I found on internet or in the books that this happens when the sensor getting old and loosing it sensibility. When I got the new digital Sekonic and compare both I find that the Soligor was a bit off, don't remember exact details. I called the Quality light metric - famous repair company in California, and Mr. Milman told me that those meters was not designed perfectly originally and even he can adjust it, he didn't suggest to spend another $80-100 on work, but instead to get another meter like Pentax or Minolta. So use it until it work, but consider in the future to spend some $$ on a better meter.
This is strange to me, because from what I've read, silicon photo diodes, which the Soligor uses, work indefinitely. I made a point to check on that before ordering because of the age of these things. Of course, misuse or abuse can change that, I guess. Either way, if it doesn't work properly, I'll just pack it up and send it back. KEH is great to deal with.
Dennis, I don't have gray card handy, but what I intend to do is measure a scene, then shoot it in manual with my DSLR and see if it comes out how I intended. I really need to get a gray card, I suppose.
I have two of them. They’re fine.
MattKing
Moderator
I'm not sure that your checking method will give you the answer you need.
Typical green grass and slightly faded asphalt tend to be close to 18% reflectance. Take readings off them, and compare the result to "Sunny 16". Be sure to avoid direct specular reflection.
A grey card is actually not an exact match to the average reflectance that meters are calibrated to (which is closer to something between 12% and 16%). Its benefit is that it is a reproducible standard.
This link from Kodak's motion picture resources talks a lot about how to use a grey card, which by the way is a subject of some dispute.
https://www.kodak.com/uploadedfiles...ion_newsletters_filmEss_14_Exposure_Tools.pdf
Typical green grass and slightly faded asphalt tend to be close to 18% reflectance. Take readings off them, and compare the result to "Sunny 16". Be sure to avoid direct specular reflection.
A grey card is actually not an exact match to the average reflectance that meters are calibrated to (which is closer to something between 12% and 16%). Its benefit is that it is a reproducible standard.
This link from Kodak's motion picture resources talks a lot about how to use a grey card, which by the way is a subject of some dispute.
https://www.kodak.com/uploadedfiles...ion_newsletters_filmEss_14_Exposure_Tools.pdf
I probably will get a gray card, but I am most concerned about getting the results I expect in my image. There are some oddities in metering, even with a meter that is spot on. Everyone of my cameras, even my DSLRs, overexpose red for some reason. I assume this has something to do with the longer wavelength of red light, but if I forget to account for this, I get terrible results, even with good camera meters.
If the meter is spot on with a gray card, I assume it will work as I expect with a scene. But if I had to choose between the two, I would prefer the scene to come out right. Also, it seems checking an entire scene will give you feedback on the upper and lower EV limits. Is it possible for a gray card to be metered correctly while the lighter and darker shades meter wrong?
I will be experimenting with it all. It is my first spot meter, after all!
As an aside, I was just looking into some Sekonic meters, and they are bragging about being the world's first light meter with a touch screen. I cannot understand how the loss of tactile feedback became a desirable feature. I still remember being able to take out my phone and dial any number I wanted without looking at it. I can't believe I am already joining the ranks of the nostalgic.
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The instruction manual might be of interest: http://www.cameramanuals.org/flashes_meters/soligor_spot_sensor_ii.pdf
The needle version don't have a "Hold button" for the value like the digital one has. The needle will return to zero when you let go of the button.
The needle version don't have a "Hold button" for the value like the digital one has. The needle will return to zero when you let go of the button.
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My Soligor Spot Sensor II arrived today. For the record, the needle does not lock into place. I wish it did, but it isn't a deal killer at the price I got it. Compared to the meter for my D300, it appears to be a stop high, maybe a little more. This makes sense for use with film, I guess. I will try to find a scene with a high dynamic range to meter and post here, if I get a chance, since there isn't a whole lot of information about this meter that I could find.
I really like the simplicity of how it works - Just set the film speed and set you EV where you want it on the Zone and you are done. It is difficult to read in dark situations, though.
Interestingly, I had never compared my DSLR to my LX7, but I used both with the settings I got from my Soligor and the LX7 is 1/2 to 1 stop hotter. I never would have known.
I really like the simplicity of how it works - Just set the film speed and set you EV where you want it on the Zone and you are done. It is difficult to read in dark situations, though.
Interestingly, I had never compared my DSLR to my LX7, but I used both with the settings I got from my Soligor and the LX7 is 1/2 to 1 stop hotter. I never would have known.
Here we go... For the snapshot below, the bricks are placed on Zone V, the grass is on Zone IV, the top right of the canoe (which is blown out), is on Zone VII, and the rest of the boat is on Zone VI. These results are when reading the Soligor as one stop too low. Looking at the photo now, the shadows are too bright, too, so I think I should read it as 2.0 stops low, because I also don't think anything in Zone VII should be blown out. That would still put the blow-out in Zone VIII, though - should that be? I may keep reading it just one stop low, because I don't mind over-exposing film by a stop. What do you guys think?
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MattKing
Moderator
For clarity, are you saying that you need to increase exposure by one stop from the reading recommended by the meter?
Looking at your example, I would have said that you needed to actually use the meter's suggested exposure, not give it more. Or maybe even give it one stop less.
Green grass is usually a good Zone V.
I'm sorry - I knew I phrased that poorly. The picture is underexposed by one stop. I think it needs to be even another stop lower. It sounds like you agree with me.
MattKing
Moderator
I'm afraid I'm struggling with your word choice.
On my monitor, the photo looks too light - at least one stop, if not more. Was it exposed at:
1) the exposure suggested by the meter when it was pointed at the bricks;
2) an additional stop of exposure;
3) one less stop of exposure; or
4) ??
I'm always cautious when someone talks about using a digital camera to evaluate exposure for another camera using a different recording medium (film).
For my test, I would place the grass on Zone V.
On my monitor, the photo looks too light - at least one stop, if not more. Was it exposed at:
1) the exposure suggested by the meter when it was pointed at the bricks;
2) an additional stop of exposure;
3) one less stop of exposure; or
4) ??
I'm always cautious when someone talks about using a digital camera to evaluate exposure for another camera using a different recording medium (film).
For my test, I would place the grass on Zone V.
I made it more confusing than I needed to. Forget the picture for a second...
The Soligor has a dial you turn based on the EV reading from the viewfinder. When the meter arrived, the previous owner had taped over the indicator mark (where you line up your EV reading) and called that Zone V (see below). Using that designation, my photos were overexposed. So, I taped over his tape, and put Zone 5 one stop lower (to the right). After doing this, my bricks in the picture above ended up on the new Zone 5. I now realize that I should have moved the markings yet another stop lower so that the bricks fell on Zone 6 and, as you say, the grass fell on Zone 5. See the picture below of the dial and tape I am talking about:
The Soligor has a dial you turn based on the EV reading from the viewfinder. When the meter arrived, the previous owner had taped over the indicator mark (where you line up your EV reading) and called that Zone V (see below). Using that designation, my photos were overexposed. So, I taped over his tape, and put Zone 5 one stop lower (to the right). After doing this, my bricks in the picture above ended up on the new Zone 5. I now realize that I should have moved the markings yet another stop lower so that the bricks fell on Zone 6 and, as you say, the grass fell on Zone 5. See the picture below of the dial and tape I am talking about:
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The previous owner probably didn't tape a "Zone VI" label to the unit. I'd say it's probably a Zone VI conversion (my Soligor and Pentax conversions have identical stickers). Pentax Spotmeters, as well as Soligors, were converted by Fred Picker's company. That included replacement of some of the sensors. It's likely that a Zone VI conversion will read slightly differently than a "stock" Soligor; at least mine does (about 2/3 EV).
Maybe that's the case here. This meter overexposes everything by about two stops, though. Does Fred Picker's company let you choose how much difference you want in exposure? Maybe the previous owner asked that it be made to overexpose by that much. Two stops really isn't that big of a deal for film, which is what I'll be using it for, but I'd rather make that correction in my head.
Also, I have seen Zone VI meters for sale on KEH before, and they usually list them as "Zone VI Modified".
Here's a link to a thread which is 18 years old. It discusses Zone VI modifications. Zone VI is long out of business, and Fred Picker died in 2002. My Soligor was found in an antique shop, costing me $65, and the Pentax was @ $300 at a local used camera shop.
http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=005Fv4
I know that KEH is very scrupulous about their listings, so I could only surmise that it was an oversight in your case.
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