ADOX cms20
ADOX cms20Sorry, the images I have from the camera aren't family-friendly. Generally, I would say that the Sonnar performs as you would expect of any other prewar uncoated Sonnar. The drawback to the 24x24 format is that grain becomes prominent so you are better off shooting a tablular grained film unless you really like golfball-sized grain in your images. There is a Flickr group that features photos from the camera, available here:
Zeiss Ikon Tenax II
Welcome to the group! Post photographs taken with this exciting camera. Please do not post any Tenax I / Taxona etc shots, Thanks and enjoy, Tejawww.flickr.com
Sorry, the images I have from the camera aren't family-friendly. Generally, I would say that the Sonnar performs as you would expect of any other prewar uncoated Sonnar. The drawback to the 24x24 format is that grain becomes prominent so you are better off shooting a tablular grained film unless you really like golfball-sized grain in your images. There is a Flickr group that features photos from the camera, available here:
Zeiss Ikon Tenax II
Welcome to the group! Post photographs taken with this exciting camera. Please do not post any Tenax I / Taxona etc shots, Thanks and enjoy, Tejawww.flickr.com
So I’ve narrowed my choices down to the following (in no particular order):
-Olympus 35 SP
-Minolta 7sII
-Canon Canonet QL17 GIII
And if I really spring for it, I might be able to get the Leitz Minolta CL/Leica CL (with a Voigtlander 40mm F/1.4 Nokton Classic), but if I were to pay nearly a $1000, I might as well get the Fuji GS645S or GSW680.
Which of these three cameras - Olympus 35 SP, Minolta 7sII, Canon Canonet QL17 GIII -has the sharpest lens and has the best metering capability for, say, night photography?
I suppose what I’m really asking is: what’s the best bang for the buck? (By the way, I really do like that Konica IIIA, but I already have too many 50mm lenses.)
It has better ergonomics. It's a tad smaller than 35SP, viewfinder readout shows you selected aperture value (handy when using its semi-auto shutter priority mode), but its meter won't work at all in manual mode. The lens is six-element instead of seven-element that was on 35SP, but I very much doubt you can see the difference in sharpness unless you enlarge a lot.Does anyone know if the Olympus 35 RD is “better” than the Olympus 35 SP?
Hi all,
So I went ahead and jumped on a pristine Minolta Hi-Matic 7sII. It’s coming with the flash, boxes, and original reading instruction materials - basically everything that originally came with the camera. The camera itself appears flawless and I was told that everything works flawlessly. Who should I take it to, if anyone, for a CLE and repairs. (I’m currently based in CT, right near NYC.)
The camera as a whole, should I be expecting anything great out of it? -On that note, should I be expecting to face any problems, issues etc. ahead of time?
And if it all works out, I’ll want to carry it in a nice small bag/carrying case so I’ll happily take recommendations here.
Many, many thanks ahead of time to everyone here!
I suggest a good, leather men's shaving kit bag.
Brown, in fact, as black often has a negitive 'vibe' and be questionable, IMO.
While not a 'camera' bag, it'll hold the rangefinder safely, plus plenty of room for your flash, film, filters, tabletop tripod, cleaner and tissues, cable release, etc small items.
It's not too uncommon to see men carrying these bags, and it does not scream "Camera!", like a small video bag or typical still camera bag, and is easily overlooked on the street, IMO.
Pair this with a good, unassuming, friction stops, aluminum monopod and you're off with a great start to your day.
Cheers and Godspeed.
YES! Bummer. After reading your warning, I put the battery back into my 35CC, which I had not used in about 3 years. In my office at night, I saw the shutter open for several seconds, which is right. Then abruptly, all shutter speeds were a quick click. No changes, no difference with the battery in or out of the camera. I suppose the pad of death died.
Well, that's another nice little 1970s camera out of commission. I got several good years of use out of it, and it was handy on trips. Time to find another compact fixed-lens travel camera? Maybe I'll just use my Leica IIIC......
Some Texas examples of the 35CC:
None of these. >95% of all Minolta/Leica CL (these have ALL being build by Minolta, despite "Leica CL" into 73-76 anyway) have a defective, disfunctional lightmeter. And the film loading mechanism is being complicated, one does have to put the camera into half, literally 2 parts, to load film, same behaviour as with all Minox 35 iterations.So I’ve narrowed my choices down to the following (in no particular order):
-Olympus 35 SP
-Minolta 7sII
-Canon Canonet QL17 GIII
And if I really spring for it, I might be able to get the Leitz Minolta CL/Leica CL (with a Voigtlander 40mm F/1.4 Nokton Classic), but if I were to pay nearly a $1000, I might as well get the Fuji GS645S or GSW680.
Which of these three cameras - Olympus 35 SP, Minolta 7sII, Canon Canonet QL17 GIII -has the sharpest lens and has the best metering capability for, say, night photography?
I suppose what I’m really asking is: what’s the best bang for the buck? (By the way, I really do like that Konica IIIA, but I already have too many 50mm lenses.)
It has almost certainly been mentioned but my vote goes to the Kodak Retina IIIC.
Hope you still have the 35CC. Pad of death soud now be called pad of maintenance. There are many youtube videos on replacing it yourself and getting camera back operating.
The other gripe about the mercury batteries, their are now some very nice drop in coin cell adapters.
Sorry for the late response.
I have 2 fine copies, working condition, into my collection, and the same issues like you. Damn G.A.S. from time to time... next time, when the lens is being serviced, i try to make pictures with my Canon VI L 6L & Voigtländer Color Skopar 35/2.8 combo...but the lens needs being serviced first, it's slightly decentered, and the focus ring turns un-even...and not smooth after all.The 35CC went to a new home. I did look at some of the videos showing the repair process, but I decided to pass. I can substitute because my closets have too many cameras in them, all waiting for exercise.
The camera itself appears flawless and I was told that everything works flawlessly. Who should I take it to, if anyone, for a CLE and repairs. (I’m currently based in CT, right near NYC.)
Who should I take it to, if anyone, for a CLE and repairs. (I’m currently based in CT, right near NYC.)
And if it all works out, I’ll want to carry it in a nice small bag/carrying case so I’ll happily take recommendations here.
I guess you have received it by now. I found also one cheap (much below market prices these days) a few months ago.
I would just check: Does the rangefinder seems aligned? Shutter looks reasonable timed, meter reacts with meaningful values? Do the lightseals need replacement (if it was not done earlier, likely this means yes, and is done easily with a pre-made kit)? If all looks ok, shoot a test roll. If something comes up, look for a repair person. Use a zinc-air hearing aid battery type 675 with some aluminum rolled as spacers (remove the sticker and let it 3min or so open to activate the battery).
I still have to replace the lightseals on mine, but the rest seemed to be working good...
So...
I was almost screwed over. I thought I'd be getting a nice Minolta 7SII that might need a little work (if any), but the seller sent me garbage:
-The viewfinder was completely fogged up.
-You simply could not see the frame lines in the viewfinder, nor anything else, unless the camera was held at a certain angle. The frame lines were practically completely faded.
-There was some grease (yes, grease) and a bunch of scratches on the front lens element.
-When I put in the Wein 1.35V battery (specifically made for older cameras using mercury batteries) into the camera, the light meter first went haywire and then just wouldn't work at all.
-The Minolta flash didn't work at all.
-The lightseals disintegrated into a powder that covered the whole interior.
-The leather case wouldn't lock because the locking pin fell off the leather case somehow.
There was even more that was wrong with it, but those were the main issues.
I was incredibly upset about this because I privately messaged the seller and asked him some basic questions before buying the 7SII, and he reassured me that the camera was "in great shape."
Anyway, the seller didn't accept returns, but I messaged him and eBay and told him that the camera was junk, explaining in great detail why. After a day, he issued me a full refund and I returned the camera.
I don't know if there's a lesson in here; I did my due diligence as best as I could. If anything, I'm now skittish about all cameras built before 1990.
The hunt continues...
So...
I was almost screwed over. I thought I'd be getting a nice Minolta 7SII that might need a little work (if any), but the seller sent me garbage:
-The viewfinder was completely fogged up.
-You simply could not see the frame lines in the viewfinder, nor anything else, unless the camera was held at a certain angle. The frame lines were practically completely faded.
-There was some grease (yes, grease) and a bunch of scratches on the front lens element.
-When I put in the Wein 1.35V battery (specifically made for older cameras using mercury batteries) into the camera, the light meter first went haywire and then just wouldn't work at all.
-The Minolta flash didn't work at all.
-The lightseals disintegrated into a powder that covered the whole interior.
-The leather case wouldn't lock because the locking pin fell off the leather case somehow.
There was even more that was wrong with it, but those were the main issues.
I was incredibly upset about this because I privately messaged the seller and asked him some basic questions before buying the 7SII, and he reassured me that the camera was "in great shape."
Anyway, the seller didn't accept returns, but I messaged him and eBay and told him that the camera was junk, explaining in great detail why. After a day, he issued me a full refund and I returned the camera.
I don't know if there's a lesson in here; I did my due diligence as best as I could. If anything, I'm now skittish about all cameras built before 1990.
The hunt continues...
Into the meanwhile, earlier this week my CLE arrived. It looks like new, never used, into original box.
I had a hard time to decide between the Voigtländer Nokton 40/1.4 MC, or the original M-Rokkor 40/F2 lens,
but went for the Nokton. The reason was - 1) avialable 2) good deal (like 99% new, for 385 bucks with DHL shipping,
cost new 549 EUR, and it's absolutely like new) and 3) the YT video from "Mr. Leica" Matt Osbourne, the Nokton
is basically a 3in1 lens, and should being used from F2 on, whileas F1.4 is only a faster emergency stop,
for avialable light, or night photography.
The original M-Rokkor 40/F2, which was *the* CLE standard prime, is not avialable into my country, germany here.
And when i have to order from Japan, it doesn't cost me only some 500-550 EUR, but also customs, and that adds
a lot extra money, into the end - it's not worth it, for myself, this lens isn't really better, than my Nokton MC, and
it's a 1980 lens design from Minolta, simple like that. OTOH, i do know, that the Nokton is based on a 60's 'cron
design...but with never multicoatings...go figure.
For reference, see this Matt Osbourne video via link here:
Voigtländer Nokton 40/1.4 MC vs Voigtländer 40/2.8 Heliar vs M-Rokkor 40/F2 vs Voigtländer Ultron 40mm F2 SL
So for sure, i could've bought a M2 for 1K, but instead, i went with "just" the CLE, which is perfectly fine for my taste,
together with my little Nokton, which doesn't protude the viewfinder.
I am talking from the 2nd version, that was clearly obvious, since the CLE had the later 40/2 M-Rokkor Design, with multicoatings.The original Minolta for CLE “second version with better coating” is a great lens. I find myself using the Leica Sumicron 40mm with a collapsible hood the most… And without pixelpeeping images look great. Coating is not as good as the minolta 40 v2.
But most of the time I am on a 28mm. The reason why IMHO minolta CLE is better than leica is that big bright 28mm wide viewfinder.
P.S. there is a great MINOLTA CLE service person who broad back to life one of my CLE that a reputable LEICA repair man said it can not be fixed.
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