What are some good cameras and lenses to practice repairs on?

[uniondale]

Well, I just took apart a Jupiter-11 F/4 135mm lens to clean...super easy. Now I have a little bit of confidence (and a spanner wrench). My next project is a Zeiss Flektogon...I know the chrome version is supposed to be hard, but I'm hoping the Zebra is not so difficult.

So, my question is any suggestions on nice cameras or good glass to practice on?

Thanks

 

[trythis]

Really, anything thats broken thats not worth having repaired.


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[John Koehrer]

Look for a couple of FED, Minolta SRT's, Pentax K1000 or Spotmatics.
If you search camera for parts on ebay you'll find a variety for less than $10.
Stay away from more current, electronics controlled ones until you have a bit of experience
with the mechanical ones. Quite a few electronic problems will have what seem to be
mechanical symptoms.

Most cameras from the 60's-70's will have a meter in them but nothing electronic that controls release or auto exposure.

 

[uniondale]

Great, thanks for the suggestion! In general, I only buy metal cameras. It's a plus for me if it's all mechanical too...then I worry less.

 

[Kirks518]

Just an FYI, I personally avoid working on almost all Canon FD mount lenses. I've tried a few, and never seem to get them together right. Could just be mo though....:confused:

 

[uniondale]

Great, thanks...that's the kind of insight I'm looking for.

 

[Brett Rogers]

It's hard to be specific without knowing what your skill set is. But if you are starting out, and would like to build up some understanding and competence in focal plane shutter mechanisms, then the early Praktica models are worth looking out for. They are very cheap; have a removable plate for their film gate, which makes reaching parts of the shutter system that are much more complicated to access on other SLRs very easy (watch for any shim placement under the plate, if any, for replacement in same location, though); and the speed escapement, which can be buried in the front of the body on some Japanese SLRs, is housed under the lower cover (along with the ratchets for the shutter springs) making access for cleaning this very easy. Contrary to what many people think about Prakticas, the best part is that, after cleaning and lubrication, and perhaps some minor adjustments to spring tension, it is not at all unusual for them to run very well again, meaning you should also have another usable camera.

If you are more interested in leaf shutters I'd suggest looking at something like an old Prontor first, a decent quality shutter that is not as complex as a Synchro Compur. I'd suggest staying away from the leaf shutter SLRs like Contaflex and Bessamatic to begin with. Personally, I like these designs a lot and don't mind working on them, but their additional complexity makes them not the best choice for less experienced repairers. Some of the classic Japanese rangefinders aren't too bad to work on either, although a few do have quite specific issues one needs to be mindful of (Eg some of the Yashicas). The Konica Auto S2 isn't a bad one to do a shutter and lens clean of, and the Hexanon lens fitted to it is a beauty. No real traps in it other than being gentle with the meter wiring and possibly a need to detach and re-solder it after repair.

There are a few books out there. The Tomosy series isn't perfect but it does have a lot of good basic information about how cameras work as well as tips for many of the more common models. I can't say I endorse his preference for lubricating cameras with graphite and there is the odd technical error in his comments about various cameras but they will get you started.
Cheers
Brett

 

[uniondale]

Thanks Brett. I find myself liking cameras with a Synchro Compur shutter, so maybe one with a Prontor is something to start with. I don't think I'll ever be an expert mechanic, but I'd like to get some skills. Also, in investing in systems it would be a good idea if I can find one or two I can do minor repairs on. I have a Konica, so the Auto S2 is also a good idea.

 

[Fixcinater]

I have a bunch of parts/for repair cameras that I've lost interest in trying to spruce up (I'm a slower worker than I thought I might be), I could send you some. PM if interested in more SLRs/fixed lens RFs.

 

[Nodda Duma]

Nikon 50mm lenses are easy to work on...the second time you take one apart...

The MIR 20mm f/3.5 is also relatively easy.

 

[ic-racer]

The easiest lenses to work on are large format lenses. No moving parts.


Next in line are enlarging lenses. They have an aperture mechanism and used to be available, in damaged condition, free or a low price for a box of them.

35mm SLR lenses are next in complexity



Medium format SLR lenses with built-in shutters are next in complexity.



35mm zoom lenses are difficult even for experienced repair personnel. Probably the most complex would be an autofocus zoom with built-in motor and electronics. Maybe those are just disposable or need to go back to the manufacturer when bad.

 

[uniondale]

Thanks for the offer Fixcinater, I sent a PM.

ic-racer, one day I'd like to get a large format camera. I'm finding the 35mm lenses easy enough to clean internal parts, but I haven't yet done any apertures. Maybe I should attack the lens of one of my medium format folders and see how that goes. I actually have no idea what an enlarging lens is used for.

 

[ic-racer]

Folders are fun to clean and repair. You can see how a simple shutter works also.

 

[John Koehrer]

Just an FYI, I personally avoid working on almost all Canon FD mount lenses. I've tried a few, and never seem to get them together right. Could just be mo though....:confused:

They are finicky little devils aren't they? It's really the moving bits in the mount assembly that makes all the others look simple.

I'd agree with icracer but I've found a couple that appear to have grown from seeds.