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What am I doing wrong?

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photobizzz

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I just took a photo on Fomapan 100, f8 for 2 sec as my Gossen Luna Pro SBC said, and it is accurate. Developed it in Microdol-X for 10 min at 68F with agitation for 30 sec initially, and for 10 sec every min. Stop for 1 min, Fix for 10 min. The image is hardly there, I don't understand why. I got the dev times off of digitaltruth.com . Is this film just crap? Anyone else shoot with this film and can tell me what they soup it in and for how long? I have some Xtol I can mix up and some Selectol Soft, more Microdol-X and some HC-110 as well.

Thanks for any insight into why this negative is hardly showing an image at all.
 
You probably fell foul of reciprocity failure.
Look up reciprocity failure for a thorough explanation.
Basically the longer the exposure time the less sensitive the film is.

You would probably want to increase the exposure time to maybe 5 or 6 seconds for this film.
 
Did you figure in bellows extension factor? Now add that to reciprocity failure, and you have a thin negative. The film is quite good, you just have some extra calculations to add to the mix. I made the same mistake when I was learning to use a view camera. I use D-76 1+1 for 10 mins. @ 68f, or Pyrocat-HD 1+1+100 for 13 mins @ 70f. Last time I used MicroX was back in 1990, I'm less than impressed with it. I shoot Foma 100 in 4x5 and 120, it suits my style, and my wallet. I would probably shoot it in 35, but I am sitting on a nice stash of Agfa 100, and not buying any more of that format for a while.
 
Reciprocity failure, or maybe light loss from an extremely extended bellows in a close-up shot. You'd have to be shooting extreme magnifications for it to make your negative almost completely blank, however.

Reciprocity is the "rule" in photography that states doubling the length of your shutter will result in doubling the exposure the film receives (thus doubling the shutter gives the same amount of additional exposure as opening up your diaphragm one stop). Thus, reciprocity failure is when this fails to hold true.

It happens in exposures that are outside of the reciprocity range of the film. This range is usually different for each emulsion, and is listed in the data sheet.

It can be adjusted for, and certain films are much, much, much better than others at maintaining reciprocity during long exposures. In general, "old school" emulsions are among the worst offenders when it comes to reciprocity failure, while T-grained films tend to be the best.

The biggest problem, aside from the fact that you have to sit there all damned night with very long indicated exposures, is that once the initial testing for necessary adjustment is performed, the failure affects the emulsion differently with different levels of light. The areas of the emulsion capturing the dark parts of the composition suffer reciprocity failure more severely than the areas capturing the lighter areas. Thus, making an exposure when reciprocity failure is occurring also raises contrast. Again, worse with some films, better with others. It it usually recommended by manufacturers that you underdevelop your film to compensate for the high contrast that results from longer exposures.
 
I understand both concepts, my bellows were not out longer than the focal length so the bellow extension factor should not have mattered. I did not remember to calculate for reciprocity failure though. I was shooting with a 210mm Sironar-N and was close to 210mm of bellows, but if I was over it wasn't enough to matter. I will look up the reciprocity failure for this film and see how many times I need to multiply when over 1 sec. Thanks guys, just had a duh moment.
 
Couple of notes (includes one pet peeve).

1) Bellows extension factor kicks in at a focussing distance equal to about 5 times the focal length, so if your subject was within one meter of the camera ....
2) (the pet peeve part) People talk about reciprocity failure occurring when exposure times become long. That is an observation that flows from practical factors, but strictly speaking does not accurately reflect the cause of reciprocity failure. The actual cause of reciprocity failure is the fact that the makeup of the film is such that when the intensity of the light reaching the film becomes too low, the film doesn't respond in the same way - i.e. a reciprocal increase in exposure time no longer makes enough of a difference to ensure proper exposure.

I know that the latter observation is splitting hairs, but it seems to me that understanding it this way helps in understanding how best to deal with it.
 
i've never used foma pan in sheets, just in 120 rolls
and i have never had troubles with reciprocity failure
shooting at speeds ... 1/30th S to 3 seconds, 2 minutes ..
whatever my meter tells me ( PLUS 1 fstop).

my guess is either / or both of these 2 things ... it's the meter, or you under processed your film.

did you make sure to slide the reflective reading ball OFF of the sensor to read ambient light,
if the ball covers the sensor it will give a reflective reading ( maybe a few fstops off ) ... ( fstop set right on the meter ? )

how are you developing your sheet film ?
my guess is that you might have severely underprocessed ( under agitated ) your film.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The article "LIRF is Lurking at Yout F-stop" at www.unblinkingeye.com may give you more insights about Low Intensity Recprocity Failure.
 
Ok guys, I just took a shot of my son with his guinea pig, basically the same exposure but the meter read 1sec at f8 and I exposed for 6sec at f8. Just finished fixing it and it looks great! I did use a fresh mix of Kodak HC-110 at dilution H (1:63) for 9min @ 68F. So I think it was the reciprocity failure, maybe the Microdol-X had something to do with it, I trashed it in my "gotta take it to be disposed of properly jug" and mixed the HC-110 in case. I am leaning more to the reciprocity failure being the culprit though. Thanks for all the help!
 
An FYI... This short pdf is a nice summary piece that touches on reciprocity and extension factors (and more).

http://paulturounetblog.files.wordpress.com/2007/08/view-camera-movements.pdf

It is kinda funny that you posted this, I posted this exact link here on APUG when someone was asking about something that was in it. I totally understand all of the principles of LF photography, I shot 4X5 for a while in 2004-2005 but got out of it for a while, just really had a brain fart about the reciprocity failure, wont make that mistake again...


Thanks all.
 
Glad it finally worked out.
I have used a good bit of Foma in 120 and 4x5 and always got good results in normal light. The first time I tried to use it in low light I had the same problem, after trying again with much longer exposures than indicated things where much better for me too.
 
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