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Wetting agents and stabilizers

pkr1979

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2019
Messages
579
Location
Oslo
Format
Multi Format
Hi all,

I have to admit that Ive been under the impression that these where pretty much the same thing... Mainly because I use stab at the end of the E6 process and a wetting agent at the end of black and white reversal process (and regular black and white) I just assumed they served the same process.

However, browsing these products it seems to me I shouldnt assume (which I do too much anyway). So, when are you guys applying one or the other (or both) when developing film or paper?

Cheers
Peter
 
Current E6 stabilizer is a wetting agent plus a biocide to protect dyes from "hungry bugs". B/W film does not need any biocide, fine grain metallic silver is a biocide by itself, but makes no harm.

You can use E6 stabilizer with BW.

 
Current E6 stabilizer is a wetting agent plus a biocide to protect dyes from "hungry bugs".

Isn't it also a proper stabilizer? E6 being a CD-3 based process requires a stabilizer for decent longevity of the dyes.

So, when are you guys applying one or the other (or both) when developing film or paper?

Paper: none. Just wash. Both color & B&W. On color paper a stabilizer might make sense.

Film:
B&W: wetting agent only.
Color: sometimes a wetting agent and a drop of formalin; the latter acts as both a biocide and a dye stabilizer. The latter isn't necessary for modern C41 films (made after 2000 or so). E6 films do benefit from a stabilizer. There are stabilizer/final bath formulas that create formalin in situ during the film treatment procedure.
 
I have used Agfa Sistan for untoned black and white prints, and Adox makes Adostab II as a modern replacement for Sistan.
 

they are indeed quite different.I use wetting agent for film and stabilizer for RC paper
 
Thanks all,

@koraks do you know why E6 films in particular do benefit?

@JPD with what kind of paper did you use Sistan?

I assume using a toner would replace wetting agent/stab?

@RalphLambrecht how come you use stab for just RC paper?

Cheers
Peter
 
@JPD with what kind of paper did you use Sistan?

I assume using a toner would replace wetting agent/stab?
I used it mostly with old Emaks Varycon (fiber) that didn't change colour in Selenium toner, and also with RC paper.

For RC paper I don't trust the "just wash for five minutes after fixing" recommendation. Too many RC prints got yellow spots within a couple of years after using that method, so now I either tone or use stab.
 
Thanks. Do you ommit the wetting agent when toning or using stab?
 
What did they change in C-41 films to be able to omit a stabilizer?
 
What did they change in C-41 films to be able to omit a stabilizer?

Re-engineered the dyes, apparently.

@koraks do you know why E6 films in particular do benefit?

It's explained in that thread @halfaman linked to. Look for the posts by @Photo Engineer. E6 dyes were apparently never reformulated to give good longevity without a formalin treatment. I don't know the specifics other than that.
 
Thanks. Do you ommit the wetting agent when toning or using stab?
Sistan/Adostab contains a wetting agent already, to avoid drying marks on glossy paper or film, since they are dried after the stabilizer bath.

I only use a wetting agent in a final water bath after rinsing film, but have never needed it for paper. But it depends on the water quality, so some use a wetting agent for RC paper after the rinse, to avoid drying marks.
 
I'll leave a note to my children and grand children about the re-engineered dyes. They will have to be the judge on that one.
 
our late member "PE" recived a patent on the E6 process managing to include the formalin on the film without having to have any in the chemicals themselves If I remember correctly. it is complicated enough that unless you are a chemist, you probably should use whatever the rest of the process calls for.