The datasheet of my wetting agent says that it can also be used for a final rinse with prints.
Is there any advantage in doing this?
Does it affect the stability or the archivial properties of FB prints?
The datasheet of my wetting agent says that it can also be used for a final rinse with prints.
Is there any advantage in doing this?
Does it affect the stability or the archivial properties of FB prints?
Usually papers contain surfactants added to help coating and also more even development. With some papers you notice your developer getting more bubbles over a session as these leach out during processing.
Don't add wetting agent with FB papers this can allow more water into the paper base, a worst case scenario is the baryta layer gets damaged and you get a patchy print base. It's similar to over washing.
I seem to remember Bruce Barnbaum saying that he uses photo flo as a final rinse. I can't remember the details of why he decided to include it in his process, but it may have been due to less than optimum water quality. Anyway, the water in my area is not very good and I started noticing that my prints were drying to a somewhat dull finish, so i decided to try it. The results were actually very good, this final rinse with photo flo restored the clean glossy finish to the prints. I also have used it to get rid of some marks caused by improper tacking before dry-mounting.
Im not sure how it affects print stability. Why don't you give it a try and see if it enhances the quality of your prints? Good luck!
I seem to remember Bruce Barnbaum saying that he uses photo flo as a final rinse. I can't remember the details of why he decided to include it in his process, but it may have been due to less than optimum water quality. Anyway, the water in my area is not very good and I started noticing that my prints were drying to a somewhat dull finish, so i decided to try it. The results were actually very good, this final rinse with photo flo restored the clean glossy finish to the prints. I also have used it to get rid of some marks caused by improper tacking before dry-mounting.
Im not sure how it affects print stability. Why don't you give it a try and see if it enhances the quality of your prints? Good luck!
Try it Bob, it works wonderfully with some papers particularly Agfa Record Rapid & MCC, also Polywarmtone. I just use an electric kettle with the lid open, it's quick, you need to hold the paper so your fingers are away from the steam.
I started doing it back in the mid 80's when I went back to FB printing. It doesn't give a high gloss like glazing, but gives a finish about half way between air dried & glazed. It can also help hide retouching.
Funny you say that about retouching.
I always steamed colour prints to suck up the kodak retouch dyes that were applied by hand and soft cloth.
In wedding labs basically the final burn in was done this way.
Once steamed you could not see the retouch.
Try it Bob, it works wonderfully with some papers particularly Agfa Record Rapid & MCC, also Polywarmtone. I just use an electric kettle with the lid open, it's quick, you need to hold the paper so your fingers are away from the steam.
I started doing it back in the mid 80's when I went back to FB printing. It doesn't give a high gloss like glazing, but gives a finish about half way between air dried & glazed. It can also help hide retouching.