I was just trying to point out that it isn't always the case, and that all of them are inaccurate.
Does anyone bother/attempt to use the zero correction? I've never messed with it, but I'm curious about it.
To zero correct a Western meter cover the meter cell with something opaque with the dial facing you and with it held horizontally tilt it away from you at a 45 degree angle insert a small screwdriver in the adjustment screw at the rear of the meter then just turn the screw until the needle is on zero.Does anyone bother/attempt to use the zero correction? I've never messed with it, but I'm curious about it.
To calibrate a Weston meter, first zero correct it as described by Benjiboy. Then, on a bright cloudless day between 10 am and 2 pm, point it up at the clear blue sky in the opposite direction of the sun -- ie[the southern sky if you're in the southern hemisphere, north if you're in the north -- and take a reading. The needle should be at about 13.5, corrresponding to an exposure value of around 14 to 15.
I still have a Weston Master V which I purchased in 1968 or 1969. It worked well when new, but the silicon cell gave out and it would, as others have noted here, only read weakly. I sent it to these people: Link and it has worked exceedingl well since. I have compared it to two digital meters, on a new Sekonic, and it agrees with them. In practice, it gives excellent results.
I have a Zeiss Ikophot that is not so lucky.
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