Rich41, I think your question shows sound thinking and understanding.
Out of context (sorry I never bought the book so don't have the page to refer), it's hard to say what is going on with those instructions.
From what you told us, it sure sounds like the instructions have you misplace a half f/stop and do same adjustment twice.
Bill, it is in the chapter called, “Customizing Film Speed & Development”. There are various sections in that chapter with sub headings like, “Effective Film Speed Test”. “Film Developing Time Test”, and so on.
Then the chapter goes on about evaluating the data, predicting development times, then, you come to the section where the question raised, comes from. “Predicting Effective Film Speeds”
If anyone has Way Beyond Monochrome, the talked about section is on page 139. If you have the Way Beyond Monochrome Second Edition, the section talked about is on page 222; I have both books.
In neither of my books is the word, “and”, spelt in capital letters. I know my Way Beyond Monochrome Second Edition is the first print run as it was purchased before the book was printed. I presume the OP must have a second print run where somehow that word was changed to capital letters, I don’t know.
Regardless, one really needs to sit down and carefully go through the various steps, as outlined then hopefully one understands it and you are off. It is a bit of a technical read with accompanying charts and tables, you also need a densitometer to do the last step, which is where you arrive at your customised normal EI. As I do not own nor any longer have access to a densitometer, I have not studied or done this closely.
That chapter is a beautiful bit of (reasonably clear) instructions, with graphs to show exactly how to arrive at the destination. Under “Conclusion” in the chapter. It opens with, “A precise film speed development test is not a simple task.” I do agree with that statement.
By the way Bill, I think you would get a buzz out of that book, second edition that is. What Ansell Adams started with his trilogy of books, has been beautifully updated and finished with, Way Beyond Monochrome Second Edition by Ralph W Lambrecht and Chris Woodhouse. I don’t think this book will be bettered, if it is, it will not be in my lifetime.
In the original Way Beyond Monochrome book, each chapter had the authors name under the sub heading. In the later book, Way Beyond Monochrome Second Edition, there are no individual authors listed. In the original book, Ralph Lambrecht was the author of this chapter.
Now to possibly answer the OP’s question, maybe.
Having just read both books, line by line, in the referred too sections, Book 1 (B1) and Book 2 (B2) I have noticed differences in the writing. Generally, the writing seems to have been changed, to better illustrate in your mind, what the author is wishing you to do.
This is the section being discussed in B1.
“3. Place the reading on Zone 1.5 and determine the exposure for a medium aperture. Keep the exposure time within 1/8 and 1/250 of a second or modify the aperture.”
This is the section being discussed in B2.
“3. Place the reading on Zone 1.5 and determine the exposure for an aperture closed down by 4 stops. Keep the exposure time within 1/8 and 1/125 of a second or modify the aperture.”
I’m assuming there was an incremental change to better clarify, technically, what to do. Asking people learning photography what a medium aperture is, may be fraught with problems. That said, it seems that the changed text probably brings different questions.
Also, B2 has better illustrations, including in this chapter and exactly on this instruction 3. It has a picture (12C) that shows exactly where to place your light meter on a grey card. Alongside that picture of the grey card, is a chart showing the exposure and appropriate aperture relationship along with the EI relationship followed by the density relationship.
B1 does not have this chart and illustration, one of the many differences between B1 and B2 and why I have suggested to friends that B2 is the superior book. That said, there is nothing wrong with B1, B2 just has less nothing wrong.
What Ralph is saying to do, is to place your light meter over the illustrated section of the gray card. (centre of the grey card) take a reading, then place that reading on Zone 1.5. You then determine what aperture you have come up with. The take that aperture and close down 4 stops. This is your starting point.
I believe this is what Ralph is trying to get you to do. Read step 1, then step 2, then do step 3. Refer to the chart alongside the grey card illustration for step 4 and 5.
With a bit of reading and rereading you should be able to get it. I haven't done this, but after reading this a bit, thinking, then reading it again, I believe I understand it.
By the way, Rich41, welcome to the forum and do not be afraid to ask any question, we will (mostly) try and help you.
Mick.