Wash-aid. When?

Sjixxxy

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• Aug 9, 2006

• #1

Using Ilford Wash-Aid on fiber prints which I selenium tone. Should I use the wash-aid in the wash before the selenium, in the wash after the selenium, or both?

Before seems to make most sense as it'll help clear all the nasties that may get left over and turn yellow in the selenium, but what about afterwards?

 

raucousimages

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• Aug 9, 2006

• #2

I rinse off excess fixer then hypo clear 5 min. then wash about 20-30 min. Tone then wash 30 -60 min. in a zone VI washer. There may be a better way but this works for me. It's just the way I was taught.

 

fschifano

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• Aug 9, 2006

• #3

I do it pretty much the same way "raucousimages" does except that my washing system is a very old Kodak Tray Siphon and an equally ancient 16x20 darkroom tray. It works. A couple of times I got lazy and attempted to tone some not so well washed prints and got stains. I don't believe that the thiosulfate residue is the problem. KRST has lots of ammonium thiosulfate. It's got to be either the acid in most common fixers and/or any residual dissolved silver compounds remaining in the paper that cause the problem. KRST washes out pretty easily, or at least more easily than acid fixers.

 

Bruce Osgood

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• Aug 9, 2006

• #4

Ilford Wash-Aid is intended to be used like Kodak Hypo Cleaner - after fixing.

 

George Collier

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• Aug 10, 2006

• #5

If you use an alkaline fixer (like Photographers' Formulary's TF4), you don't need clearing before or after, just wash 20-30 minutes after fix and after toning, according to Formulary. I am in the process of trying this myself, getting away from acid fixers. I use a vertical archival washer like the Z6.
The alkaline fixer is more expensive, but is faster, washes out more easily, supposedly tones better, and eliminates another chemical in the darkroom (clearing agent).

 

Monophoto

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• Aug 10, 2006

• #6

I put my prints into a holding bath after fixing. Then, at the end of the printing session, I put them into a tray of fresh water while I dump the developer, stop and fixer. Then, I put them into a wash aid (Ilford, Sprint, etc) for about five minutes. Then, I transfer them to the toner. After toning, I put them back into the wash aid for a few minutes (selenium tolner contains ammonium thiosulfate) before washing.

 

RalphLambrecht

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• Aug 10, 2006

• #7

Since selenium toner contains a fair amount of hypo itself, wash aid must be used after toning just prior to washing.

 

Bruce Osgood

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• Aug 10, 2006

• #8

RalphLambrecht said:

Since selenium toner contains a fair amount of hypo itself, wash aid must be used after toning just prior to washing.

Click to expand...

.......additionally you may consider the secnd dunk a "Stop Bath" for tone depth.

 

donbga

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• Aug 10, 2006

• #9

Bruce (Camclicker) said:

.......additionally you may consider the secnd dunk a "Stop Bath" for tone depth.

Click to expand...

Now that's a new one Bruce. Can you explain further about tone depth?

 

Bruce Osgood

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• Aug 10, 2006

• #10

donbga said:

Now that's a new one Bruce. Can you explain further about tone depth?

Click to expand...

Yes, what I mean is the degree of depth, the hypoclear will neutralize the selenium quickly "stopping" its' further action of "deeper/darker/color shifting" penetration.

Going from a selenium bath to a water bath does not end the toning, it only slows or dilutes it gradually while a 30 second hypo bath arrests the action and further cleans the print for washing.