Wall mount for Durst L1200

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mpirie

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Hi guys,

Does anyone have a wall mount for a Durst L1200 or the schematics/diagram with measurements so that i can create my own?

Thanks,
Mike
 

Ian Grant

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Mike, I have a wall mount bracket I had made many years ago for a Durst M601/M670 etc you can have it for the cost of postage if it fits. It's just 1/8th inch steel bent 90º and a triangular bit welded in the L shape to brace it. I raw-bolted the bracket to my darkroom wall, I stabilised the top of the column with a second simple bracket and used a bolt and piece of rubber to just pinch down from above (may have that piece as well). The holes for the bottom part that usually fots a baseboard are 10cm apart.

Ian
 
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mpirie

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Thanks for the kind offer Ian.

I think the column for the M670 and L1200 are significantly different enough for your brackets not to fit.

Hopefully someone will have a picture of a setup so that i can see what's needed for fabrication.

Thanks again,
Mike
 

Ian Grant

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Mike, you are probably right I've just been out to my darkroom (at the end of my garden) and the column and fittings are wider on my AC600.

A local metal working shop or even a blacksmith should be able to make what you need quite quickly and at not much cost. My bracket might be 3/16 sheet rather than 1/8 but it's simple and worked well for years in two different locations, I can easily draw the shape for you. The larger Durst enlargers don't always fit simply to the base boards etc. The columns remove easily it's the part that holds the columns that vary and there's at least 2 variation in base fit of the L1200.

You might want to spread the load and use 4 raw-bolts rather than two as you enlarger will be significantly heavier, and you'll need to see what clearance you need from the wall.

There is an alternative solution which I used in my old house where the darkroom was in a cellar, I mounted my M601 and also a Johnsons V45 enlarger side by side directly to the back of the enlarger bench, the front piece of bench-top below the enlarging areas was removable and could be slotted in at 3 or 4 different heights, one about 2 inches off the floor giving me great flexibility to make much larger prints than a column attached to a baseboard allowed..

Ian
 

Ian Grant

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You've got me thinking about a floor-standing 504 now since i have a concrete floor :smile:

Mike

Mike, I use a floor standing 5108 now it's exactly the same frame and height as the 504 just a larger head and it's really nice to use. Just be aware that it needs a lot of ceiling height. I had to sink mine into the floor and remove a joist above in my old darkroom, it fits nicely into the apex of the roof of my new darkroom though.

ian
 

Hilo

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Not what you're looking for, but I have the L1000 on it's wall mount. Slightly different systems from what I see on pictures . . . tell me if you want more information.
 
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mpirie

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Thanks Hilo.

Do you have pictures of the L1200 brackets? If so, can you scan and send me a copy please?

Thanks,
Mike
 

Hilo

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Thanks Hilo.

Do you have pictures of the L1200 brackets? If so, can you scan and send me a copy please?

You
Thanks Hilo.

Do you have pictures of the L1200 brackets? If so, can you scan and send me a copy please?

Thanks,
Mike

I can make some pictures of the L1000 (!) brackets for you, I don't have anything for the L1200

(I also sent you a pm)
 
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mpirie

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Thanks Hilo,

From your message that the systems were different, i assumed you had documentation for both L1200 and L1000. Apologies if i picked you up wrongly.

Thanks for the PM.

Regards,
Mike
 

Hilo

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No worries Mike. I could have been more clear - I just looked at pictures on the internet and I think I see differences between the two enlargers.
 

M Carter

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I don't know that something like this needs to be welded steel (though I'm thinking Beseler MXT, your enlarger may be 5x the weight?) I'll eventually wall-mount my MXT, and my plan is bracing 3/4 plywood sheet to the wall studs, and building sort of a screws & glue plywood "box" that emulates the stamped-steel Beseler mounting kit, and gets the head a bit further from the wall. I think I can guarantee that if done properly (and with a similar concept for the top of the frame), it'll be as rock-solid as any steel piece could be. YMMV of course, but in my mind this can be a table-saw-and screws project, not necessarily a welding gig.
 
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