Yes this continuing of toning really can cause problems for workers like me who tone and then put them in a water bath(even with circulation) many a print has gone too far for my liking.Yes, sulfite is different from sulfide and will not help. Sulfide can indeed be used very diluted and will work even stronger. This is why toning continues in a water wash bath.
Lars
I think a search on "Douglas W. Nishimura" will give you good reading about how vulnerable our silver images are...
Here's an example article, seems very plain to me. Selenium Toning isn't going to protect your silver from red spots.
http://cool.conservation-us.org/byorg/abbey/an/an12/an12-5/an12-507.html
Yes this information would be great, as I do see this problem and when I print or tone its not just a few but quite a few prints and I have been bitterly disappointed many times.You can use a fairly strong alkali bath as a stop bath for the sulfide toner. Can look up a recipe id that's what you are after.
Lars
I think a search on "Douglas W. Nishimura" will give you good reading about how vulnerable our silver images are...
Here's an example article, seems very plain to me. Selenium Toning isn't going to protect your silver from red spots.
http://cool.conservation-us.org/byorg/abbey/an/an12/an12-5/an12-507.html
Try this reference source: https://www.imagepermanenceinstitute.org/resources/publications
There are some instances of less effective toning with modern Selenium toners than obtained years ago.
PE
I would love to find a solution to this problem btw .--- Ian Grant where are you..
Ole has mentioned a mixture of selenium toner and brown toner before. I have mixed up and used the formula published by Kodak as a polytoner substitute. It worked well and gave the expected results at different times and dilutions mentioned in Kodak dataguides. I didn't particularly like the colors produced on Ilford WT, but that is personal taste.
http://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/prod/files/files/resources/CIS268.pdf
How brown would a print be after being toned in a "sodium sulfide solution of 0.1 grams per liter"?
How brown would a print be after being toned in a "sodium sulfide solution of 0.1 grams per liter"?
This whole thread leaves me scratching my head. After all these years of photographers toning in selenium in order to preserve prints, it now seems that this was bogus. Not being a chemist, and having to rely on what I read in (supposedly) reliable books, I find this rather depressing! It makes me wonder what else folks like me have been told (and believed) over the years that is not reliable.
On the plus side, the very first prints I made (in 1970) still look just fine and will no doubt outlast me. They were printed on Agfa fb paper and washed for half an hour in a basement sink with absolutely no other equipment and no toning at all. So much for archival methods.
The best way to achieve archiaval permanence is thorough washing. In this case there is no change in image tone.
So I am glad Ian got on this .. I was going to say that I use 32grams per 10 litres so about 3.2 times the strength of what is being discussed and it really turns the print fast depending upon how much bleaching is done first.
Ian are you suggesting that going to .1% solution I can tone without change and there will be protection, even though no visible change.. this is new and interesting concept as when I do sepia selenium I on Ilford warmtone the prints go warmer than I would like -
Only with indirect toning and a bleach stage, you won't see that with direct toning.Chocolate brown.
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