Ditto on the plunger soft release. I will also add that locking the plunger down for storage is or can be a gentle exercise. While my barndoor L locks down nicely, my T would not when using the same technique as on L. And then I found out all I had to do was go slow and clicks into place every time.I have the barn door Vitessa with the f2 Ultron. Wonderful camera! Here's a link to an instruction manual: http://www.cameramanuals.org/voigtlander_pdf/voigtlander_vitessa_t.pdf
Do send Mike Butkus the compiler of this invaluable resource a few bucks so he can keep up the good work.
I'd suggest slowing the "rise" of the wind plunger with your finger. No need to shock this old mechanism....
He was referring to thumb wheel for focusing, at least that is my assumption.There are about 30 Vitessa models. Even including type 126.
I got a 35mm one with a plunger and non-retractable barrel, but got no idea what "focus winding" means.
The thumb wheel works like a charm. Fujica rangefinders (at least some of them, V2, EE 35) have same focusing style. Surely they could be stiff which would kill the idea, but I have 5 cameras with this feature and none poses problems while keeping your right hand on the body at all times. I'd even venture to suggest that it is more precise with right technique, keep you thumb on the wheel and against camera back all at the same time and when near focus use the pressure difference between these two contact points to move focus a smallest amount for some critical shots. Of course rangefinder needs to be that precise to begin with in order to make sensible use of it.I see... the Vitessa L, plunger and retractable lens (barndoors), has focusing via a thumb-wheel protruding through the back and a scale on the top.
That wheel is typically not shown on photos and thus overlooked by me. The idea behind it obviously is to facilitate focusing in spite of the barndoors.
Moreover it likely enables to operate the camera without taking a hand off the body for focusing. In contrast to the Vitessa T where one has for instance to take the left hand off the body and plunger to grasp the focusing ring/tab.
But features one sees in photos might not work out in practice...
Maybe Kino and Witold enlighten us on this feature.
Thanks. I'lll probably call the person and ask some questions. Perhaps I'll even drive out to see it in person and take close look at it, see if I can fire it thru the various speed settings, etc. I'd like to have a vintage 35mm camera but in the end don't want to throw money at. something that isn't going to function fully.
The model T (non-retractable barrel) in addition yields an automated DOF indocator and the changability of lenses. However the finder covers 50mm completely and has no indication for a longer focal lenght. Thus for both accessory lenses (35 and 135mm) accessory finders are needed.
Concerning faults: I inspected two T-samples. One without any marks of use on the plunger only released erratically. That may be due to the plunger mechanism, or the shutter itself. The other sample with brassed plunger stem, works continuously but is a bit stiff and needs relubrication.
... be aware it uses the EV (exposure value) system whereby the meter reads out an EV value, you pull down and rotate an aperture lever latch on the bottom of the shutter and match the EV value. This ratcheting lever lightly couples the shutter speed and f-stop values together for that reading and you can then move the f-stop ring through out the applicable range for equivalent exposures. Sounds more complex than it actually is in use, but some people find the ratcheting interlock between the shutter speeds and the f-stops annoying.
You CAN vary the shutter speed and f-stop setting independent of the EV interlock, but it can be fiddly. I find that if you determine and set your f-stop FIRST, then you can often set your shutter speed and shoot, however if the last exposure was dramatically different from what you are attempting to shoot, you might have to adjust either the shutter speed or f-stop ring twice, due to the limits of the EV range of the last exposure.
The Voigtlander turnit 3 finder covers all 4 focal lengths, the 50, flip down the 50 and you have the 35, flip up the 50 and tur the finder and you have the 100, and it should come with a push on frame which covers the 135, it is a very useful piece of kit, I use it with my 2 Barnack Leicas,my Fed, Kiev plus of course my 2 Vitessa T's, I also use it without the 135 frame on werra's as I find it way easier than using the frame lines, as regards the Vitessa range, I have 2 barn door and 2 T's, for some reason the plungers on the T's are harder to push than the barn doors, had the t's checked by a repair person, one that I trust and nothing wrong, just the way they were made, the T's are lubricated, just stiffer due to a re design, not really a problem. I like the focus wheel on the Barn doors, but not special to the Vitessa, I have 2 Ensigns that are much older than the Vitessa's and have the same type wheel, in the same position, nothing new under the sunYes, the swivel finder. But I thought it only covers 2 focal lengths, depening on the position it is swivelled on.
The Vitessa lenses are Skoparet and Dynaret.
The 35mm and 100mm Prominent lenses are the Skoparon and the Dynaron.
If you get a Bessmatic be aware the lenses are the Skoparex and Dynarex...
There are about 30 Vitessa models.
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