vivitar 283 battery question

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jim appleyard

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I have a Sunpak 383 and it requires batteries to make the auto feature work. W/o batteries it simply dumps at full power.

I'm looking shave a few ounces and thought about the Vivitar 283. Does anyone know if it requires batteries to complete the circuit so the auto feature works.
 
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darinwc

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Lets give Jim some credit.. with 1700 posts he should have some basic knowledge by now.

Some shoe-mount flashes can use an external source, like a quantum pack or an AC adapter.

I'm assuming this is what he means, that even with an external source the flash still requires batteries to run its auto function.

As to his question I dont know... I do have a vivitar 285hv but that is slightly different. maybe if you search for a manual it will help.

Darin
 
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Bob-D659

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The internal batteries usually run all the smart circuitry. An external high voltage pack only charges the capacitor. Now an external low voltage pack or ac adapter usually replaces or even charges the internal batteries, and then there are some external power packs that can supply both low and high voltages to the flash head.
 

randyB

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I've not had this problem with any of my flashes. I always buy the ac adapter when I get a new flash so when they are used in the studio for product photography I'm not wasting batteries. I have actually used multiple flashes on auto and they work just fine. My understanding of how the power supply works is that the currant goes to a single convertor inside the flash where it modified for the use by the flash tube, sensor, electronics at whatever voltage that is needed for each. In other words, only one power imput.
Jim, could it be that your finger was over the sensor when you discharged the flash thereby causing it to dump all the charge? My 283's, 285's, 611's all will flash many times on auto when the power is off. The number of "off" flashes depends on what distance setting the flash is set to and how close the flash is to an object. Also, not all "Auto" exposure flashes are thyristor. The first ones (70's, 80's era ) simply dumped the unused charge after the short flash burst. The thyristor electronics greatly increased the number of flashes per set of batteries plus gave instant recycle time at close distances. I can't remember if the 383 is thyristor or not.
 
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jim appleyard

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OK, Darwin is thinking along my lines. I'm shooting weddings/outdoor portraits with a Bronica ETR (yup, still film), Sunpak 555 and a Stroboframe bracket. All this adds up to some poundage. I have no problem inside where I can synch up to 1/500th sec for flash. My problem is that for outdoor weddings on cloudy, dark days and doing fill flash, my shutter speeds are sometimes down to 1/15 and I can get camera shake; I'm ok on sunny days.

I bought a Sunpak 383 to go for a lighter weight flash than the 555, but with the 383 I need to have AA batteries in the chamber to complete the circuit for the auto feature to work; the main charge is coming from a Turbo.

I was wondering if anyone knows whether the Vivitar 283 can fire on auto w/o AA's in the chamber when powered by a Turbo? I'm trying to shave as many ounces off the weight as I can. The 383 with AA batteries is nearly the same weight as the 555 w/o them.

BTW, I'm certain I was not covering the sensor.
 
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Bob-D659

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IIRC Quantum made a low voltage high current output pack for the 283 that just replaces the internal batteries, the cord ends in an adapter that replaces the factory battery holder. The 283s I've seen do not have provision for a high voltage external battery pack, neither does my older non HV 285. What voltage(s) does your turbo power pack supply?
 
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jim appleyard

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IIRC Quantum made a low voltage high current output pack for the 283 that just replaces the internal batteries, the cord ends in an adapter that replaces the factory battery holder. The 283s I've seen do not have provision for a high voltage external battery pack, neither does my older non HV 285. What voltage(s) does your turbo power pack supply?

I don't know about the voltage for the turbo, but I think it's 510.

The 283 does accept an external power source: Turbo ( with a CV cord) and the Vivitar HVP-1; perhaps others as well. This may have been an added feature in later models?

I'll have to look into the battery adapter.
 

eddym

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The adapter? I'm afraid you lost me on this one.

By "adapter" I mean the plug on the end of the cord from the Quantum pack. It plugs into the battery bay of the 283. You close the battery cover to hold it in; you can cut out a notch to accommodate the cord if you wish.
Oh, I remember, the official name of it is "module."
 

John Koehrer

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I don't know about the voltage for the turbo, but I think it's 510.

The 283 does accept an external power source: Turbo ( with a CV cord) and the Vivitar HVP-1; perhaps others as well. This may have been an added feature in later models?

I'll have to look into the battery adapter.

Yes, all the 283's will use the same module/adapter/plug etc.
The original battery box/tray/fitment is removed, a notch cut into the battery compartment cover and the Quantum battery with the correct module/adapter/plug is used.
The Turbo will not work with the 283 because it has a 9V output. The 283 uses 6V.
 

jolefler

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FWIW....

I have a Vivitar HVP-1 to offer for shipping charges, alone. The dry cell is fairly pricey for me, as I shoot few frames. If you shoot 35mm or digital, it may be another story.

530 volt battery, if I recall correctly. Instant recharge, hundreds of cycles.

Jo
 

PHOTOTONE

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If the external battery uses a "module" that fits into the battery compartment of the flash in place of the internal batteries, then the flash would work as normal, as all the circuits are being supplied voltage from the external battery. The flash wouldn't know it did not have internal batteries.
 

John Koehrer

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Phototone.
That is true, the flash works as normal.
 

Robertmoen

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HVP

I have a Vivitar HVP-1 to offer for shipping charges, alone. The dry cell is fairly pricey for me, as I shoot few frames. If you shoot 35mm or digital, it may be another story.

530 volt battery, if I recall correctly. Instant recharge, hundreds of cycles.

Jo

Hi,
LEt me know est of shipping charges. I will take if charges are not too much. I am in SOuthern Ohio so perhaps not too bad. My Zip is 45068

Doug Rash
 

jolefler

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Sorry , Doug. I sent it off to Ralph quite a while ago. Hey Ralph...ever find that M.O.?

Jo
 
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All of the Differences Between Vivitar 283's & 285's

WOW ! It's hard to know where to begin. There's so much mistaken information, here. So let's try this;

1. There are 2 different 283's as there are 2 different 285's.

2. All of these models can use 6 volt low voltage Quantum 1's, or 1+. Any modules, that fit into the battery compartment are for the low voltage Quantum battery.

3. The L.V. 285's, CANNOT use a Turbo. They weren't designed to use the H.V. pack, so they can't use a Turbo.

4. Aside A., when they came out with 285 H.V., they redesigned the 283's to lower the flash synch voltage. Only older 283's have a high synch voltage. All 285's have a low flash synch voltage.

5. I don't believe that you need to install AA batteries, to use a Turbo. I still own 2, 1 of which still works fine. I remember, Vivitar telling me, that only the flashes, that used an LCD, display, require AA's.

6. Stay away from the Vivitar H.V. 1 pack. The 510 volt battery is hard to find. The turbo's were invented as a substitute for the Vivitar H.V. 1 pack. The Turbo puts out about 300 volts. www.qtm.com

7. Aside B., All 283's & 285 H.V.'s use the same AC adapter. Because when they redid both flashes, they made them both similar inside. All 283's & 285 H.V.'s se the same Turbo power cord. Only the 285 L.V., uses a different AC adapter, which Vivitar promptly discontinued, when they discontinued the 285 L.V..
But here's a secret, the 285 L.V., AC adapter was also used for the Vivitar Polaroid Instant Printer.
So the joke was on them.

8. I was always worried I would fry the camera circuitry, because of the single ball connector in the hot foot. If both, the camera & flash are switched on, dragging the ball across multiple contacts on the hot shoe, could short the camera. So to avoid that, I changed the foot to the one made by Lindahl. It uses a HouseHold synch cord, instead of the little pin & the metal foot, required me to use a flash bracket, the best thing I could have ever done.

9. You can tell the difference, between 285 L.V.'s & 285 H.V.'s by the front label. The L.V.'s used Black lettering, on a Silver background, the H.V.'s used Silver lettering on a Black background. While it does say H.V. on the front, it can be easy to miss & if your eBay, hunting, this may be a more reliable way to spot, what you want.

10.. You must power up all Vivitar flashes every once in a while or the capacitor goes dead. It's hard to fix now, due to a lack of parts from Vivitar.

11. I'm told that the Chinese one's are junk, ( no pun intended ). Here's a web site that explains all about the new models. But even he has some of the facts wrong, about the older models. I owned, both L.V. & H.V. 285's. I still have the H.V.'s as back up. www.AlJacobs.com
 
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