I have the 285 which my father used to use for weddings. He says that it was the only flash he has ever used which had a light output which matched the manufacturer's claims. Most others were over-rated.
Steve.
Is it both the 283 and 285? I think its just the 285 reintroduced.
I(But I saw it on a blog, so it MUST be true)
.
What's the difference between mine and a 285? A zoom diffuser?
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/02/return-of-classic.html
Another option for those considering picking up a flash...
Can't say I have an opinion one way or another- I've never used anything other than the Minolta flashes I've owned.
But maybe I'll have to try one on for size...
I used to do this on my very first digicamNow, if only I could get them to sync with my little point and shoot digicam.
Pat
I used to do this on my very first digicam
1. Get a wein peanut slave
2. attach a sync cord
3. Tape the slave right onto the flash
4. cover all the camera flash
5. connect sync to bigger flash.
It helps to have some vari power type of flash.
I just tape a piece of black slide film over the flash.
The problem is, many P&S cameras have TTL-ish flash control and redeye-reduction, both of which will trigger your flash at the wrong time.
That is probably the problem, alright. Well, if Eric's suggestion doesn't work, then I'll know why not.
Make sure if your P&S has red eye thing, you need to turn it off. I've used this method with Oly Stylus Epic and an old Kodak Digital. I think my P&S digi has a non-red eye flash thing.
Good luck! Let us know.
PS. I've also used this method with a Polaroid Spectra and a Polaroid SX-70.
All these methods I've had the flash on a bracket as well.
Eric:
Thanks for the tip. I will try that. My first effort was to plug the peanut slave into the side of the 285 and bounce it's light off the ceiling. It triggered the flash on the digicam, but the sync was off. So I will try it your way.
The Vivitar 285 has variable power and the White Lightning Ultra 1800 does, too.
Pat
I just tape a piece of black slide film over the flash.
The problem is, many P&S cameras have TTL-ish flash control and redeye-reduction, both of which will trigger your flash at the wrong time.
Just a word of warning: According to Paramount Cords (http://www.paramountcords.com/vp.asp), the 283 and 285 use a synch voltage of no less than 280 Volts. Apparently the capacitator discharge runs through the synch cord. Maybe they just want to sell their voltage limiters, but some shutters or cameras may not be able to handle this. I would do some compatibility research before you fry your shutter contacts or electronics.
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