Views on Nova slot processors?

cowanw · Nov 3, 2017

effervescent Denture tablets worked for me!

Svenedin · Nov 3, 2017

cowanw said:
effervescent Denture tablets worked for me!

Great! That's a much cheaper solution (terrible pun).

Down Under · Nov 3, 2017

Many thanks to tezzasmall (#17) and bdial (#21) for your posts. I have learned some new tips and tricks from this thread, always good.

It seems the Nova processing units are much better than the Jobo Duolab - which may explain why Novas are still in production, but the Duolab isn't.

My Jobo unit is badly in need of a good clean out,so I'll try the effervescent denture tablets. Thank you also, cowanw. Good one!

Yes, a micromanager I may be, but so be it. Duolabs as well have a fourth slot but I've not used it for anything other than water (to help the warming process). My workflow is to give my prints a brief dunk in slot #3 which has fixer, and then continue the process in a separate tray, without using the tongs. Otherwise a corner of the print will be unfixed and eventually stain.

Small problems, potentially big consequences. Just like in life!

Canuck · Nov 4, 2017

Thanks for the Tetenal info. Just have to see if it is available in Canada. Cheers!

BMbikerider · Nov 4, 2017

Svenedin said:
This has worked for me: http://www.tetenaluk.com/tetenal-chem-cleaner-1l-bottle.html

Expensive but works.

There have been a good few suggestions on what to use to clean the slop processors and I have had varying success with the ones I have used. The one sold by the manufacturer of the processor is easily the most aggressive but it HAS to be used wearing rubber gloves and in a well ventilated area as the fumes are harmful to health. (they do give a good warning on the container.Oh yes it IS expensive!

I have used a spray sold in car accessory and spare parts shops which is solvent designed to remove brake dust and leave no residue. This does shift the thicker deposits, but again the fumes are very strong and should not be inhaled. Whilst it does clean up the thick deposits but will not get down to the bottom of the slot.

I also know of people who also use domestic bleach in a strong concentration possibly as much as 1 to 3 concentration. Not as smelly, but quite dangerous if splashed onto bare skin so again gloves are necessary. It is the cheapest of the three so I may give it a try the next time I clean out my processor.

AgX · Nov 4, 2017

As an alternative to a Nova one might try a Jobo Prima. Maybe as introduction to slot processing.

BMbikerider · Nov 4, 2017

Going back to the original question, I do not use the processors for B&W work because I like to see the image develop and can do immediate work if the development is not going as well as it should. For instance if one part seems to be gaining intensity quicker than the rest, possibly due to the negative part is thin as in a shadow. I can lift the print out of the developer and rinse that part with cold water which slows the development down but allows it to be normal in other areas.

Conversely this can be also used where areas are showing less intensity in the highlights. I again lift the print out of the developer and use fresh warm neat developer applied with a 1" paintbrush to the paler areas which can make the difference between a print being correct or simply waste paper.

Obviously this takes time so I only usually use these techniques on fibre based paper where the development times are longer. I could use the 2 bath processor to hold the stop bath and fixed, but lifting a wet dripping print from a dish into a processor usually means a cleaning up session between each print.

calebarchie · Nov 4, 2017

AgX said:
As an alternative to a Nova one might try a Jobo Prima. Maybe as introduction to slot processing.

Also look up Nova Jomate

Richard Man · Nov 4, 2017

How about using a Nova Slot Processor for doing Pt/Pd work?

calebarchie · Nov 4, 2017

Richard Man said:
How about using a Nova Slot Processor for doing Pt/Pd work?

The slot processor I have been working has cooling support (chilled bath for pt/pd) but I have not tested this yet. I do not see any problems with doing this but you probably want to have separate processors for each type. Maybe someone else can tune in with some experience.

Svenedin · Nov 4, 2017

BMbikerider said:
There have been a good few suggestions on what to use to clean the slop processors and I have had varying success with the ones I have used. The one sold by the manufacturer of the processor is easily the most aggressive but it HAS to be used wearing rubber gloves and in a well ventilated area as the fumes are harmful to health. (they do give a good warning on the container.Oh yes it IS expensive!

I have used a spray sold in car accessory and spare parts shops which is solvent designed to remove brake dust and leave no residue. This does shift the thicker deposits, but again the fumes are very strong and should not be inhaled. Whilst it does clean up the thick deposits but will not get down to the bottom of the slot.

I also know of people who also use domestic bleach in a strong concentration possibly as much as 1 to 3 concentration. Not as smelly, but quite dangerous if splashed onto bare skin so again gloves are necessary. It is the cheapest of the three so I may give it a try the next time I clean out my processor.

Have you tried a bottle brush to get to the bottom of the slot? I did think of using domestic hypochlorite bleach but I was worried that it might cause the plastic to become brittle. These fears may be unfounded but I have seen plastic toilet seats for example that have labels that say do not use hypochlorite bleach.

john_s · Nov 4, 2017

cowanw said:
Indeed the paper must be moved during development or the honeycomb pattern of the walls may be visible on the print.
.......

I found that prints didn't show the honeycomb pattern until after toning. I find that ID-78 which I mix myself lasts quite well. One does need some ready for topping up because the amount of developer carried out with the paper is quite a lot. I didn't know that the slots shouldn't be filled fully if an adjacent slot is empty. I haven't had a problem but I'll keep it in mind. You do need to clean the slots. I use a long lab bottle brush. For a thorough clean i have been using steradent (for dental plates) but now I have some of the active ingredient (sulfamic acid) (found from MSDS)and will use that in the future. I see now from the local Steradent MSDS docs that sulfamic acid seems not to appear. They do indicate washing soda and baking soda which are a lot easier to source.

BMbikerider · Nov 5, 2017

Svenedin said:
Have you tried a bottle brush to get to the bottom of the slot? I did think of using domestic hypochlorite bleach but I was worried that it might cause the plastic to become brittle. These fears may be unfounded but I have seen plastic toilet seats for example that have labels that say do not use hypochlorite bleach.

Using the spray cleaner from accessory shops with a brush I have not used it that way but I think it would be impractical due to the rate of evaporation of the spray. You would need to use a lot and then there is the problem with the fumes. They are not unpleasant, just that I am wary of breathing in something that could be toxic or carcinogenic. I am not using so much RA4 now so the build up of tar is not so bad. I think about once a year would suffice for me.

The plastic used to make Nova processors is actually acrylic sheeting and the plastic toilet seats are probably either Bakelite (Can you get it nowadays?) Or UPVC a similar plastic used for double glazed window frames in UK. Or with cheaper ones, possibly a stiffened form of polypropylene. I don't think household bleach will affect acrylic sheeting.

Views on Nova slot processors?

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