Very Old D-76 & Old Tri-X

RedSun

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Just like to report back my testing with some old stuff.
The film is Tri-X Pan in a tin can. I loaded into cassette a coupled years ago.
For developer, I mixed 1 GL D-76 in 2014. I stored the stock solution in 1,000ML bottles and stored in basement. Just wanted to try if it is still any good. The stock solution looks like light beer now.

I exposed the film at ISO 100 and developed with regular time.

Here is the result. I'm sure the Epson V750 scanner helps with the auto exposure. I did not do any other processing.
From the negatives, I can see the light leak at the sprocket area. Also there is moderate base fog. I'm just surprised to see that the D-76 stock solution is still very potent after 5 years.

I do not know what I'm going to do with the film. Maybe shoot some panoramic? Also I can add some chemicals to fight the fog.
 

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RedSun

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Yes, also I chose not to dilute it and skipped Jobo to use regular inversion. Just make sure to get enough developer there.
 

mshchem

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RedSun said:
Yes, also I chose not to dilute it and skipped Jobo to use regular inversion. Just make sure to get enough developer there.
Click to expand...
Perfect!
When I first used a Jobo it took me a couple of underdeveloped sheets of film to learn to be careful with diluting developer. If I dilute XTOL I use a oversized tank to make sure to allow room for a oversized dose.
Anymore I use stock XTOL 1 shot, even then I use a little extra with the Jobo. I like using the machine for the thorough job of fixing and hypo clear with Tmax films. The old films like Plus X and Tri-X before they were "modernized" would clear in 30 seconds in fresh rapid fix. I fix on the Jobo for 5 minutes, then 3 minutes with hypo clear to get the dye out.
 
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RedSun

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I wish there were more liquid form of B/W developer. Rodinal is fine, but I still prefer D-76. I think a strong developer would help to bring out the contract with this old film. Also I can add more developing time.

I'm going to try it on Jobo next time to see if more agitation will help with the contrast.
 

tezzasmall

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I've not long ago developed a not so important film in Ilfosol S, which was still sealed and about 10 years old (at least), that had been pushed to the back of my other bits, so was only recently discovered.

I had much newer and fresher developers to hand but I was curious if it would still be usable.

Upon opening it could be seen that it had aged a bit, by the colour of it, so initially I just did the film leader to test it. This looked good, so the full film was developed.

The developed film looked fine, although maybe a little thinner than expected, but the negs are printable.

It was only a very small bottle and I didn't want to risk more important films with, so it was disposed of, but I was impressed that it even worked.

I'm currently making my own D76 / ID11 from individual chemicals, so I now know that the developer is fresh each time I make it.

Terry S
 

pentaxuser

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RedSun said:
I wish there were more liquid form of B/W developer.
Click to expand...
There is also Ilford DDX A very good developer and probably one of the best for fast films such as D3200 but one of the more expensive ones unfortunately

pentaxuser
 

removedacct1

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RedSun said: ↑

I wish there were more liquid form of B/W developer.

There's Ilford Ilfosol, Ilfotec HC, Ilford Simplicity, and Ilfotec DD-X. There's HC-110 (and Legacy Pro L110, which is similar), Legacy Pro LMAX, Rollei Supergrain, and at least a score of Photographers Formulary liquid developers. Rodinal is fine for some, but not all, films. Sprint gets a mention as well. How about T-Max Developer? And there are several variations on PMK Pyro in two-part liquid formulations as well. Also Heico OS, Cinestil DF96, . How many do you need to choose from??
 
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RedSun

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I have a sealed bottle of T-max concentrate. But with my irregular film schedule, I'm afraid of opening it. Also, it is not good for sheet film that I also do.

Can I use Ektaflo develop B/W film? I have an old jar of Ektaflo concentrate that I use to process B/W paper.
 
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RedSun

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Processed another batch with stock exposure and 1 min more developing time in Jobo. But the negative is thin. So regular exposure with N+1 (or more) does not yield good results.

Need to over exposure for the old film, and over developing to get more contrast.
 

MattKing

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Do you have another developer? If so, first try that film metered and exposed at box speed.
 
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RedSun

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MattKing said:
Do you have another developer? If so, first try that film metered and exposed at box speed.
Click to expand...
I can try Rodinal. I think the right exposure is more important than the developer variation. Box speed for very old film probably won't do it. I tried to add more developing time and agitation (Jobo), but the push effect is only marginal.
 

MattKing

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If the developer has lost capacity, what you are achieving may be similar to the results obtained when there is too little "stock" in the developing tank.
In that situation, adding more time in the mostly exhausted developer gives little or no increase in highlight density - i.e. no effective "push".
You are working with two things - old film and old developer - that both are capable of causing the problem. It would be worthwhile to try eliminating the less expensive one (the developer) from the experiment to see what happens.
The Rodinal isn't ideal - it often results in a bit of a decrease in film speed - but it is an easy one to try the experiment with.
 
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RedSun

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Yes, this is very possible. The negatives are too thin to scan or print anything.

This is part of my testing & cleaning project to sort out the old photo stocks. Also to test some of my photo equipment.
 
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RedSun

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Update on the testing.

Found a 1 QT D-76 powder. Mixed the fresh stock solutions. Decided to shoot the film at EI 25. The film is confirmed as Trix-X Pan film from the imprint on the film edge. There is a lot of speed loss.

Developed at 7 min at 21C, in Jobo with D-76 stock. Results are pretty good. There is some light fog in the sprocket area, but the film is actually clean. The old D-76 stock solution is probably not the problem. Severe film under exposure is the issue.

 
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RedSun

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More one stop bracketing. It seems EI 25 is about right. I did not bother to do a complete wash of the film.

 
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