[VDB] Hydrogen peroxide as a complementary "fixer eliminator" after hypo-clearing ?

[largo]

In Peter Mrhar's book Van Dyke Brown: Historical and Alternative Photography, chapter Neutralizing the fixer, the author recommends this "Fixer eliminator" to be used after fixing and after hypo clearing with Sodium Sulfite :

Fixer eliminator is designed for complete removal of the fixer from photographs. Most often it is used only in the case, when we want to achieve the perfect stability of photo. For making this peroxide eliminator we will need: 150 ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide and 850 ml water. The solution is made immediately just prior to use, so that 150 ml of 3% peroxide is mixed in 850 ml of water. The solution can purify 5 photos of size 20 x 30 cm. The use of fixer eliminator is very simple. After fixing and washing picture in the above-described solution of sodium sulfite, the photo is immersed for 5 minutes in this peroxide solution. At the end the photo is washed for 10 minutes in tap water.

I've never seen or read this before : hydrogen peroxide as a complementary "fixer eliminator" after hypo-clearing.... Does this make sense for you guys ?

Thank you very much for your replies !

 

[khh]

Hypo eliminators used to be recommended in the past, but they are no longer recommended. It was found that use could damage the emulsion and the image forming silver. That formula is not too different from Kodak Hypo Eliminator HE-1, but that additionally used ammonium. I'm not sure about the applicability for Van Dyke Brown, but I would be sceptical.

 

[koraks]

It was found that use could damage the emulsion and the image forming silver.

Van Dyke brown has no gelatin emulsion.

I've never seen or read this before : hydrogen peroxide as a complementary "fixer eliminator" after hypo-clearing.... Does this make sense for you guys ?

Sort of. Peroxide is kind of aggressive, but a brief treatment in a dilute solution will probably not do much harm. But for archival processing, I'd consider replacing the 'plain hypo' fixer with a pH neutral(ized) rapid fixer, then add a hypo clearing step (dilute sodium sulfite will do) if you're feeling fancy, and then just do an archival wash. I don't really see much of a use to try and kill whatever traces of thiosulfate that may linger on. Worst case you'll just end up with some sulfur in the paper which may produce a yellow for or staining. Washing is a better idea.