V35 too bright

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I recently got a Leitz V25 enlarger with a color head. I put in a new bulb and have been successfuly printing with it, but my printing times are very short; on the order of 2-3 seconds. Is there a way to dim this machine down a bit? I use VC papers and did try adding cyan which helped a bit, but makes me nervous. Thanks

Richard Wasserman
 

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Some ND or diffusion medium above the negative carrier. Tough Rolux from Rosco.
 

SoulSurround

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disfromage said:
I recently got a Leitz V25 enlarger with a color head.
You mean the V35, right?
disfromage said:
I put in a new bulb and have been successfuly printing with it, but my printing times are very short; on the order of 2-3 seconds. Is there a way to dim this machine down a bit? I use VC papers and did try adding cyan which helped a bit, but makes me nervous.
The V35 I own doesn't have the problem, BUT I do always buy the original (expensive) Philips 13139 bulb for my unit (there are two versions: see the following website: http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/photo/v35.htm ).
Hope this helps,
Jeroen
 

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If you use Kodabrome or something, change the paper to AGFA MCC/MCP. That would double the exposure time. Then change to Fortezo. That would double the exposure time again!

Also, the exposure time changes over the course of the lightbulb's lifecycle. It can get very short just before the bulb burns out. I'd look for a new bulb now!
 

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You can add all three color filters at the same time to dim it down.

Or you can just stop down the lens. Which f-stop you are using? If you make small enlargements, say up to 5x7, there should be no penalty in using f/8 or f/11.

Other than that, if your results are good, why does the exposure time of 2-3 seconds make you nervous?
 

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I'll second Petzi's suggestion. Go back to f/4.5 for an 8x10.

AND might be time to change timers....

I remember when I started printing with my Ic, with short exposures,
I started having trouble with burning and dodging !

I went to my sensei/boss/mentor and he said, " Pay more attention shooting ".

Good advice. Thirty years later, I'm trying.
.
 
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I am using a new and correct bulb. This is obviously a problem with small enlargements so maybe all I have to do is stop the lens down more. I don't like to stop down more than about 2 stops, hoping for best possible quality, but I'll try it and see how things look, hopefully Leitz will live up to their reputation. I will also try gels on top of the negative carrier, it looks to be a tight fit, but they just might work. I like Sensei's advice, he's very wise. Pay more attention.....

Richard Wasserman
 

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disfromage said:
This is obviously a problem with small enlargements so maybe all I have to do is stop the lens down more. I don't like to stop down more than about 2 stops, hoping for best possible quality, but I'll try it and see how things look, hopefully Leitz will live up to their reputation.
I tested my focotar 40 f/2.8 and found f/8 to give the most pleasing results (Leitz claims f/5.6). What size prints are we talking about by the way?
 

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Firstly, when printing with VC paper I do not believe that the use of cyan fitration is capable of helping you at all. Of course, this may well indicate that once again am I mentally constipated. Try this: make a satisfactory exposure with your magenta and yellow. Dial in the mamximum cyan as an addition to your current filtration. Make a second exposure, Woo, that surely made a difference ania?

So what color might help? Red? Maybe. but it will be rather strong medicine.
A light red such as a cc50R could be useable. Neutral density is preferable.
Where to put it? Well, I can think of three spots. It has been a longtime since I have owned a V35...like 25years. If you can open your mixing box easily then put a polyestedr ND filter inside. If you like 15-20 second exposures then use an ND .9 3 stops of light decrease. This will put the rather fragile polyester filter where it will stay pristine. Second choice tape it to the top of your diffuser on the negative carrier but the filter will be subject to scratching etc. which may cause no harm but is, I feel, certain to cause no improvement. Thirdly, I do not recall if the 40mm Focotar has filter threads on the front. If it does get a high quality glass MC ND filter of the appropriate strenght and screw it into place,...UMMM make that 4 choices remove your red filter and replace it with an ND filter..again use a glass filter that is MC and of high quality.

If a 2 stop correction will do the job, and you already own a polarizer then the polariser in any orientation into the light beam...YAh, Yah, Yah I already know that a polarizer has a standard filter factor of 2.5x but it has a neutral density that is extremely close to .6.

The V35 is, I feel, a wonderfully elegant enlarger. It is so handy to use. My ownly regret is that Leitz did not offer it with the 50mm Focotar II and appropriate cam. For myself I would glady settle for a reduction in maximum print size and an increase in optical quality were I to own a V35.

Enjoy your enlarger.
 

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Claire: you didn't get the 50mm cam ? Works perfectly with the Apo Rodagon N.
 
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Claire,
Thanks for your suggestions. Unfortunately the mixing box is glued shut, although I should be able to tape a peice of gel over the inlet window. That might just solve the problem. BTW, adding cyan does lengthen the exposures, plus it's a very pretty color.

I'm wondering why I seem to be the only one with this problem. My negatives are not thin by any means, they are amply exposed and well developed. I have searched the web looking for advice and found that most people were troubled by their V35 being too dim not too bright. I guess I'm just lucky.

Richard
 
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I'm not going fast enough, I can't keep up! Is there a 50mm cam? I have a 50mm Apo Rodagon and a little more distance to the paper wouldn't hurt. It's also a great lens. Please tell me more.

Richard
 

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25 years ago I heard nothing about a 50mm cam. Perhaps my deafness can early.
 
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A fifty won`t get more time, just more distance. A 50mm Rodenstock Yaserex or Yaseron or something was a cheaper alturnative when new. It requires a different auto focus cam. 11x will be top magnification.

If your times are that short, you have the wrong bulb or the electrics are screwed up somewhere. I would worry about overheating. 13139 Phillips I think is correct. It should be a 75watt and maybe 25 volts. Can`t remember the volts.


Set the input voltage selector to 220 or 240 and that will cut down brightness. It is on the rear side of column base.

30cc of each YMC each will reduce the light one stop. 60cc each 2 stops.

Check out the Electrics before you damage something.
 
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Ronald,
You may be on to something. I am using the correct bulb, it's a 13139 75 watt 12 volt. The voltage selector was set correctly, but when I change it to 220 volts the light dims noticably. Before I leave it at the 220 setting I just want to check that doing so is safe and won't damage anything. Am I correct that this is equivalent to using a dimmer and if anything will extend the life of the bulb? Thanks

Richard Wasserman
 
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Problem solved! It turned out to be a defective bulb. I had a spare and tried it and my printing times are now reasonable. Instead of 3-4 seconds at f/8, I'm at about 8 seconds at f/5.6. Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I'm happy again...

Richard Wasserman
 
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Good.

No you won`t hurt anything at all. The transformer thinks 220 is coming in and steps 220 to 12. If 120 is the actual input, it will end up 6 volts and you will get about 10 years from the bulb.

I think there are 4 setting, 220, 240, 110. and 120. If you are happy with the dimmer light from 220 use it. If you want to go to larger prints, select 120 for a brighter light.

Test first if you use VC paper as the color temp gets redish at low voltage. This could change the contrast as the paper is color sensitive in blue/green. Change the ratio, contrast changes.

I used a voltqge stabilizer and set it to 120. I don`t remember burning out a bulb. Get a stabilizer if you do color.
 

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I use an Aristo light source with their V 54 lamp. It too is way too bright. So I purchased an Aristo dimmer- this enables me to print with a constant aperture, f5.6 or f8 or whatever. It is calibrated, so once I worked out settings for 1/2 stop less, 1 stop less etc. it works really well. Bright for focusing. I would imagine the Aristo dimmer will work with your Leitz - ask Aristo on their web site - they are very responsive.
 

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Claire: The 50 cam was available as late as the mid '80s. Dunno if there are any lurking in a drawer. I think probably not: I think I cleaned out the enlarger parts back in '96. Got a 127 carrier ! :cool:

But it never hurts to ask.

Ron: neat diagnosis
 

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Thank you very much Don but theses days I use a Durst S45 and I am completely satisfied.
 

df cardwell

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Claire Senft said:
Thank you very much Don but theses days I use a Durst S45 and I am completely satisfied.

And you SHOULD be !!! :tongue:
 

Petzi

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disfromage said:
Problem solved! It turned out to be a defective bulb. I had a spare and tried it and my printing times are now reasonable. Instead of 3-4 seconds at f/8, I'm at about 8 seconds at f/5.6. Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I'm happy again...

This is the first time I hear of a defective bulb that was too bright. :smile:
 
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