UVIVF photography

The first tentative steps to ultraviolet induced visible fluorescence photography....

Equipment:

Lens: "Makro-Planar T* 5.6/135 CF" with Automatic Bellows and Hoya 72mm UV and IR Cut Screw-in Filter




Camera:
Hasselblad 500 C/M with CFV II 50C Digital Back:



Lightning:

2 x 100 W 365 nm LED see Posting (in English): https://illumina-chemie.de/viewtopic.php?p=82160#p82160
1 x Cluster with 4 x 50 W 365 nm LED see Posting (in German): https://illumina-chemie.de/viewtopic.php?p=82723#p82723
All LEDs are equipped with a "Runrain ZWB2 UV Band Flow Filter UV Torch Diameter 42mm Thickness 1.9mm" to exclude visible light....


The flowers:



The results:

Exposure 2 s:



Exposure 8 s:


Exposure 2 s:


Both Exposure 45 s:




Focus was set manually....

bj68

Hi,

so far, so good. Well done.
As a next step I would put a yellow filter (emission filter, like a #3 eg., you could test a #8 or #12, but they would eliminate a blue fluorescence) on your lens to eliminate remaining parts (around 400nm) of your excitation wavelenghs...

Best wishes
Jens

You could swap filters and try UVIIF as well with that rig, maybe even VIIF.

a) Would be this filter okay: https://heliopan.com/products/light-yellow-filter-5?variant=12657394974783
#3 is Wratteb number https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wratten_number


b) uviif = Ultraviolet Induced Infrared Fluorescence?
But what is VIIF?

bj68

Visible Induced Infrared Fluorescence.

I am unsure what you are asking about the filter.

BJ68 said:

a) Would be this filter okay: https://heliopan.com/products/light-yellow-filter-5?variant=12657394974783
#3 is Wratteb number https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wratten_number


b) uviif = Ultraviolet Induced Infrared Fluorescence?
But what is VIIF?

bj68

Click to expand...

Hi,

yes, as the Heliopan #5 blogs light below 440 nm (see here: http://www.heliopan.de/produkte/schwarz-weiss-filter/) , it looks like a very good alternative.
Here the transmission of your UG1 (ZWB2) is practically zero.
It's not about infrared fluorescence here - to do so we would have to eliminate the infrared passing the UG1...

With the # numbers I ment are the corresponding Kodak Wratten numbers.

One more thing: There is plenty of uv in your set-up - take care for your eyes!

Yours
Jens

Update Part 1:

First setup:


For the black I used a "DALIN Non-reflective photographic background, light absorbing fabric, textile background", but there was a little problem under UV light:
In the velvet surface, there were plenty of fluorescent fibers incorporated:



A workaround was to use the other side of it....which worked:





Made a few pictures with this setup:

Clover:


Buttercup:




Off topic insertion: Got Neutral Density (ND) filters....and tried it out...interesting effect...see the smoke at the chimney:

ND1000 (to short exposure):


Longer exposure, where the structure of the smoke cloud is blurred:


Part 2 follows....

bj68

Update Part 2:

a) Changed the UV/IR-Cut-Off filter.... "Hoya 72mm UV and IR Cut Screw-in Filter" against a "Sigma 72mm WR UV Filter" https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NIHDGJY

Reason for that change:
[...]The HOYA UV&IR Cut is a specialized filter that has the ability to cut both UV rays below 390nm and IR rays above 700mn leaving just the light rays in the visible spectrum passing through the filter and into the camera. Filter is available in sizes 49mm through 82mm. This filter is used on a digital camera and the video, which do not have an IR protection filter toward an image sensor or were remodeled. This is important because unfiltered CCD and CMOS sensors are extremely susceptible to UV and IR rays just outside the visible spectrum that can have a very negative impact on image quality. PLEASE NOTE: The UV-IR Cut filter is intended for use with digital SLR cameras and cine cameras that do NOT have an IR filter installed in front of the sensor. Color balance effects can occur when this filter is used with cameras that have an IR filter installed in front of the sensor. Please consult your camera owner's manual before use.
[...]
from https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B006OIJTCC

b) Added the suggested "HELIOPAN Filter Light-Yellow (5) - Diameter: 72mm" https://www.fotoimpex.com/cameras-accessories/heliopan-filter-light-yellow-5-diameter-72mm.html in my camera setup.
Sequence: Object(Flower)-------UV-Filter-------Light-Yellow(5)-Filter-----Camera-Lens----Camera (No clue if it makes a difference, if you switch the filter sequence)

c) Setup #2:

At the first setup: Exposure times under 45 s where sharp....at longer times I got blurring, so my thinking was "Bad Vibrations" from the fans of the UV-units. So I changed the setup and make a separation between the support board which the object (flower) and the two stands where the laboratory statives where placed.

The black velvet was replaced with a "black box" made out of plywood, which was painted with "BLACK 2.0 - THE WORLD’S MATTEST, FLATTEST, BLACK ART MATERIAL BY STUART SEMPLE" https://culturehustle.com/collectio...orld-s-mattest-flattest-blackest-art-material which did not fluorescence under UV.

As "holder" I used black painted pegs:
- matches21 Large Wooden Clothes Pegs Natural Colours Pack of 10 Each 3 x 12 cm www.amazon.de/gp/product/B017M7XZY6/
- Rayher 62831000 Large Wooden Clothes Peg XL 15 x 3.4 cm www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07DCXGQZ7/
- com-four® 100 x Clothes Pegs XXL www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07BR43CTM/

Additionally the distance between the UV-lights and the objects was reduced, to geht more intensity....


Here is setup #2:


Picture @work with a flower form the flower shop:



The pictures:

a) Thistle:




b) Corn poppy [Papaver rhoeas] which was stored in a diluted solution of Fluorescein Na, which made the vessels visible:




c) Kind of dog rose, approximately 2 cm diameter:



d) Marguerite #1, which the disadvantage that the middle part was very high....so there was a light problem with the depth of sharpness:



e) Marguerite #2 was a little bit more flat-chested:




The next pictures are flowers from a flower shop:


f) Yellow flower:



g) Red flower (same species like f) and this blossom was the same from Picture@Work):



h) Flower-Shop #3:




The blurring problem is not solved.....so I have to tinker a little bit more over it....longer exposure times (90 s to 150 s) results in blurring:



I have some "test cards" http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/technical/lens_sharpness.html which I will use....to test a few options...to get this blurriness away...

Suggestions welcome..what´s the reason for this...

bj68

Edit: Original Posting in German:
Part 1: https://illumina-chemie.de/viewtopic.php?p=84091#p84091
Part 2: https://illumina-chemie.de/viewtopic.php?p=84092#p84092

What aperture are you using? A 44x33 sensor with that lens focused at 25cm has a DoF of about 7.5mm at f64. The higher wavelength of UV should let you stop down even more without encountering diffraction.

A lens with short focal length, reversed, will give you a closer focus distance with less bellows extension and may reduce exposure times if subject movement is an issue. It makes lighting the subject more difficult, however.

Update:

Setup:

Got enough laboratory stands for constructing a new setup:




Here @Work with about 400 W UV:


Made a few more pictures:

a) Corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas) Picture brightness edited with photoshop:



Same species, but inserted in a solution of Fluorescein-Sodium for a couple of hours:



b) Buttercup (I suppose):


c) Thistle:


d) Flower

Without yellow filter:


With Yellow filter:


e) Marguerite picture edited with photoshop brightness:


f) Flower form @Work-Setup:



Exposures between 23 and 45 s
Aperture f/32 and f/22 used

bj68